M10/M10M color matching for small scuffs repair

[Tor-B]

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Hi, 
I manged to makes som marks on my m10m after cleaning the shutter button.
Right now, its just exposed metal. 
Hope some one here has a color code or a paint i can buy that matches the M10/M10M black chrome? finish well 
 

[Strmbrg]

Hm, how does it look now?
And maybe: How did you clean it?

[Tor-B]

18 hours ago, Strmbrg said:

Hm, how does it look now?
And maybe: How did you clean it?

 

The reason behind cleaning it was that the shutter button at times felt grindy to use.. I could feel it rubbing when pressing the shutter button. I have a m10 as well, and that's super smooth.

Due to the ridiculously bad and long service times from Leica, sending it to Wetzlar was out of the question. ( service takes between 4 weeks to 6 months) 

I tried cleaning the button while it was attached to the camera, but I didn't want to risk getting water or isopropyl alcohol inside the camera body itself. 

So removing the shutter button and cleaning with isopropyl alcohol was the solution I went with. 

The shutter button and the shutter button collar is just one whole part that screws into the camera's on /off switch itself.

I use electrical tape to cover the metal part of the pilerI used to unscrew it. 

When tightening the shutter button, I still managed to slip and scratch it. I don't know which part of the piler that made the damage. 
At least the button works smooth now.. 

So back to my question. Any knowledge of which color to go with to mask the damage and  protect the exposed metall ?  I guess some one at one point must have fixed some scratches or chips with something before 

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[jaapv]

For work like this one should use a Flexiclamp.

 

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As for paint, this is not paint but most likely anodized You can try satin black model paint, but it won't stay long. No need to protect the metal; it will not corrode.

[Tor-B]

3 hours ago, jaapv said:

For work like this one should use a Flexiclamp.

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

As for paint, this is not paint but most likely anodized You can try satin black model paint, but it won't stay long. No need to protect the metal; it will not corrode.

Agreed. Still don't remove the clumsy part. This should still be straight forward doh
If its anodized... then this should maybe do the trick 110% 

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-15121-Casey-Aluminum-Touch-Up/dp/B072LT4HCZ

 

[charlesphoto99]

That's brass. No need to repaint it. 

[jaapv]

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Even if it is brass, it is impossible to match by a lick of paint, which as said, will not stay on long-term. And as Charles said, not needed. The best solution will be to match the damage by wear from regular intensive use. 

[Tor-B]

 Decided to go with this. 

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/super-black-touch-up-pen-flat-black.html

Will update with result after receiving it. 

[Tor-B]

49 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said:

That's brass. No need to repaint it. 

Are you sure about that, because this to me, looks 100% like aluminum.
Its silver is bright white in color. Not brass (even doh the image might make it look a bit yellow) 

Regardless,  I will test this product.
After some research, it looks like it will work great on camera gear as well as guns or any other metal for that sake. 

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/super-black-touch-up-pen-flat-black.html

So let’s see.  🙂 Worst case i still need to send it in, or live with it. 

[charlesphoto99]

1 hour ago, Tor-B said:

Are you sure about that, because this to me, looks 100% like aluminum.
Its silver is bright white in color. Not brass (even doh the image might make it look a bit yellow) 

Regardless,  I will test this product.
After some research, it looks like it will work great on camera gear as well as guns or any other metal for that sake. 

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/super-black-touch-up-pen-flat-black.html

So let’s see.  🙂 Worst case i still need to send it in, or live with it. 

Could be. Posted before my first coffee and was thinking it was the same part as the on/off switch, which is brass. On my M10-R black paint that part is chrome, so I can't reference it. The only non-brass outer parts I've found is the frame surrounding the screen and back buttons. Still won't corrode though. I'd just use as is, as dabbing with paint of a wrong color/finish could make it actually look worse, but since it is labeled as 'non-permanent' worth a try. 

[Strmbrg]

So, even if you can achieve the exact matching color, it will still look different because or different gloss values and different smoothness of the surfaces.

Edited April 23, 2024 by Strmbrg

[AceVentura1986]

The front screw on my M10M came a bit loose on delivery so I tightened it w the flathead screwdriver on a pocket knife I carry. Well, it worked but it sort of scratched the screw’s finish a bit. My solution was a black sharpie pen I had lying around on my desk. Worked just fine. 

[dabrez]

If you have already removed the shutter and collar once, why not try to order a new part right from Leica and just replace the the scratched one yourself? It may not be an option from Leica but it's worth an email to see if buying one possible. Cost may be a factor as well. But do as Jaavap says and get a Flexiclamp to remove the old one.

Good Luck!

Dave

[Josnacks]

On 4/24/2024 at 12:08 AM, Tor-B said:

 Decided to go with this. 

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/super-black-touch-up-pen-flat-black.html

Will update with result after receiving it. 

Did you end up going with this? Very interested to hear how it turned out?

[RonM]

Not sure what these are made of but I tried searching for 'camera wrenches.'

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376480318106?_skw=camera+wrench&itmmeta=01K2Q5PZ490X0C5WHE8D41WVMJ&hash=item57a7f9c29a:g:n2MAAeSwPu5onUdT&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eBUYtwnuZ2Kp4m41rz9cp%2B0cReKZS0EnCaBkWShZ4ba4OvAFKkKgyfIiGFqGWPCkA8aNtg0bagy4gFkJ24IeUol4%2Bgd6i4Joe1QfTKaYCSOLjYRNR4oa9EzqkIjAZuN%2FsvfvIIGRKoqEf5ezkspfeiY19lx%2BHK9iQW5zSTCDrp8XYAHahjaiFZ7Alc7x8unF04IqrHy8Dk%2BY73mqGZO%2BJBgCa4OMFWhEKvUTPHa7WadMGge%2BumM23%2F47e0gbuXoZU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7Ly2-WVZg

[TomB_tx]

Unlike earlier models the M10 button assembly has the on-off switch integral, with almost no space between it and the collar. I've used flex clamps to remove the old style, but haven't found one that will work on the M10.

When I got my used M10R I found the shutter wouldn't work. It had a "soft release" screwed into it that hit the collar before it would trip the shutter. So I tied to just unscrew the soft release, and instead it unscrewed the whole button assembly! Once out of the camera I could get a grip on the soft release and hold the rest of the assembly and remove the soft release.

The reason the soft release didn't unscrew on the camera was that the shutter button assembly was already loose and unscrewed enough from friction on the soft release that the button wouldn't depress far enough to trip the shutter. Once I screwed the assembly back in I just tightened the collar gripping with a rubber sheet for friction, and it tightened sufficiently. Works fine now.