SL3 and ISO 200

[Dr. G]

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In a recent follow up video on the SL3 by Red Dot Forum they were taking their test shots at ISO 200.  I had asked why they used 200 instead of 100 and the answer I received was:

”Virtually no difference in DR and SNR between ISO 100 and 200.  Typically, in landscape or general photography, a little faster shutter speed and/or a little more depth of field (Smaller aperture) are worth shooting at 200 instead of 100.”

I usually shoot 1/3-2/3 stops underexposed (I like the way colors render that way) but never thought about raising ISO to 200 to get a little faster shutter speed because I always assumed 100 was giving me the best image quality.  
 

Anyone have thoughts on this, or routinely use 200 instead of 100?

 

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[rcusick]

Sunny 16 habit.  I always shoot at iso 400 and f11 in film.  So iso 200 and f8 on digital. 

[hansvons]

The “right” ISO setting depends where you want to have middle gray sit on the DR curve. In cinematography, middle gray represents typical skin tones, as filmmaking is basically shooting portraits. Thus, most cinematographers end up on modern sensors with ISO 800 when putting middle gray 1 stop above the DR’s centre. 

Without knowing it, I’d suspect ISO 100 for the SL3 a ISO pull setting, sacrificing DR in the highlights when shooting “normal” scenes. For protecting the highlights (think of white clouds) I use ISO 400-800, knowing that the sensor will be invariant at ISO 800 (probably higher than that anyway), which is the same as shooting at ISO 200 with EV -1 or closing the aperture by one stop.

[Chaemono]

Reid Reviews tests for base ISO of the SL3 and he demonstrates it pretty convincingly. I won’t tell because his tests are behind a paywall.

[SrMi]

SL3’s native ISO is ISO 100. 
It is wasteful to shoot at ISO 200 instead of ISO 100 if the lower ISO fullfills the constraints (motion blur, DOF, highlight clipping).

Shooting with ISO 200 as lowest value is like shooting with APS-C sensor instead of an FF sensor.

 

[Photoworks]

1 hour ago, hansvons said:

The “right” ISO setting depends where you want to have middle gray sit on the DR curve. In cinematography, middle gray represents typical skin tones, as filmmaking is basically shooting portraits. Thus, most cinematographers end up on modern sensors with ISO 800 when putting middle gray 1 stop above the DR’s centre. 

Without knowing it, I’d suspect ISO 100 for the SL3 a ISO pull setting, sacrificing DR in the highlights when shooting “normal” scenes. For protecting the highlights (think of white clouds) I use ISO 400-800, knowing that the sensor will be invariant at ISO 800 (probably higher than that anyway), which is the same as shooting at ISO 200 with EV -1 or closing the aperture by one stop.

Shooting is L-LOG is no the same as a photo.

Photo base iso is 100, ISO50 is pulled 1 stop

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[FlashGordonPhotography]

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The key word here is *virtualy*. There is a difference between each full ISO but it's very small. IQ doesn't fall off a cliff between 100 and 200 but the extra shutter speed or apparent DoF *may* make a larger difference. I would agree that often using the lowest ISO can lead to other settings being less than optimal that actually have a bigger IQ hit than raising the ISO one stop.

For stills I only worry about shooting at base ISO if I think I'll need the noise performance in post. And mostly I can use LR or DXO (not yet but soon) to sort that out. I'll often shoot at ISO 400 for normal shooting and I make LARGE prints.

As always do your own tests. Shoot some scenes at different ISO's and process normally. If you can see the difference at your regulat out put then it's there. If not you've opened up your shooting envelope.

Gordon

[Dr. G]

Thanks for the responses.  Is just seemed odd to me since they were seemingly shooting on a tripod for their test shots.

[hansvons]

2 hours ago, FlashGordonPhotography said:

I'll often shoot at ISO 400 for normal shooting and I make LARGE prints.

Precisely my ISO setting for the SL2-S for best IQ in uncontrolled environments.

[SrMi]

I am using Auto-ISO and varying slowest shutter speed setting. Combined with the aperture set for desired DOF, Auto-ISO in A mode will maximize the exposure for a given situation.

Shooting at lower ISO allows increased exposure and thus better IQ. I do not see a situation where I wish that Auto-ISO starts at ISO 200 or 400 instead of 100.