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I am sure this is a generally common ask but what I am challenged with is loading a very recently shot roll of film that has just been removed from a camera onto a development roll (Jobo in this case) as the curvature of the film coming out of the camera is opposite to the natural curvature that the film as it would be when you load fresh film in the camera.  My question is ... is it best to just roll the film back into the canister and wait a couple of days for the film to recover back to its original form before trying to put it on the developer reel ?  When I rush to try and load that roll the new curvature created from the film being in the camera take up spool results in it hang up on loading into the reel.

Suggestions?

Thanks

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It's been a while since I loaded films into development rolls (I used Jobo too) – but I can't remember to have had any problems regarding the curvature.

And I always developed film directly after having made the shots and rewind the film.

Only issue I had was, when the spool wasn't 100% dry. 

Andreas

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@LUF Admin Thanks... Its happened several times now with mulitple dry reels and even trying to load on metal reel seems to be a challenge.  Not any problems with reels themselves as I loaded practice canisters of film just fine over the same reels again and again.  I have made sure to cut the leader back a good ways as well. I seen where some recommended pulling the film completely out of the canister and even loading from the canister take up end first.  I am going let the film set back in the film canister after rolling it back to see if that will help.  But I will take other suggestions as well.  

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I have used Paterson plastic spirals for 50 years. I do often have to bend back the leading end of the film to get it to load, after tearing off the reduced width leader that is needed with the screw Leicas. Ideally trim the end of the film straight with scissors and cut a small bit off the leading corners to help.

 

And just be grateful that you are not trying to load 120 film, much more floppy.

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I always snip the leader off. I have never had a problem with film being bent 'the wrong way'. Perhaps because it is usually left in the canister for at least a day before I develop it. What film is it?

Edited by LocalHero1953
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I don't use JOBO reels, but I do use Paterson's---almost daily. Film curl is an issue unless you're willing to let the film sit, rewound in the canister. After rewinding the film, I use a leader extractor to acquire the leader. I then pull out about 10cm of leader and use scissors to make a neat, straight cut. I now now have a square edge. When I'm ready to start loading the reel (in total darkness, etc.) , I use a canister opener to remove one end of the film canister. I remove the film and, holding the spool at the ends, unwind the film with my other hand until nothing remains the the end of the film that is attached to the take-up axle. I make another straight cut as close to the plastic take-up as possible. 

Now, this end of the film, being closest to the take-up spool, is extremely curled. I slip this end onto the ramps, ensuring that the film passes under the raised section of the reel (meaning the film is not protruding along the top of the reels but is in the guides), and with my other hand I pull the leading edge of the film until it's about 1/2 a complete rotation onto the reel. I then flip the reel into the "upright" position, and using two hands, in alternating twists, thread the film unto the reel. I keep my little fingers at the bottom of the reel so that I can feel the end of the film (which is the leader end we first trimmed). When I feel the end of the film, I know that a few rotations remain before the trailing edge of the film will come to rest on the ramps. If this film was just in-camera, I slow down because the curl will still be noticeable and I want to ensure that the last of the film goes onto the reel without buckling (this will certainly give you semi-circular "rings" on the film ... bad thing. If, as this last edge is advancing onto the reel, you feel the film isn't quite aligning squarely onto the reel, you use the inner edges of the thumbs to nudge the film into place---it's best to do this when you're slowly advancing the film.

 

Edited by Tom R
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  • 4 weeks later...

I know this sounds strange whether you are loading the film in a blacked out darkroom or a daylight changing bag, but close your eyes if you find you have a tricky one. I was taught this at college and it's a simple technique to focus on touch alone.

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2 hours ago, 250swb said:

I know this sounds strange whether you are loading the film in a blacked out darkroom or a daylight changing bag, but close your eyes if you find you have a tricky one. I was taught this at college and it's a simple technique to focus on touch alone.

That's great advice. I've never thought about that, but it's exactly what I've been doing since the late 1970s until yesterday. And I always have film loaded in my darkrooms. 

You could also look at a different system. Everyone has their favorite system, but there is no point in only recommending your own. Half of the equation is the person performing the loading action.

Try a few systems with a sacrificed blank film.

In my own darkroom, I use HP Combina tanks and these work fine for me. While teaching in school or university darkrooms I used just about every main system. Some gave me many problems, others were fine.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/17/2024 at 9:00 AM, 250swb said:

I know this sounds strange whether you are loading the film in a blacked out darkroom or a daylight changing bag, but close your eyes if you find you have a tricky one. I was taught this at college and it's a simple technique to focus on touch alone.

I use this technique too! It certainly helps stay focused and stay calm. As a bonus, helps avoid getting sweaty palms too. 😀

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