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I've an M8 but want to have better iso, what can be me next M body without breaking the bank?


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Hello all, i don't know if this is the best subforum to ask that, but...

I'm a happy M8 user, but i'm thinking to buy another M body to have better iso results, i want to shoot in low light.

So what can be the best buy ( i don't have money for a M10-11), i don't mind video, nor other gizmos, i like it simple, and don't have big budget.

What do you think can be the best M body for this scenario?

I plan to keep the M8

Thanks for your answers!

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I do not know “how much bank” you have, but, the M Type 246 Monochrom has quite good performance at high ISO settings. The original M10, though a newer camera, does not beat the 246, in this regard.

https://www.reddotforum.com/content/2020/05/bw-iso-showdown-2020-leica-m10-monochrom-vs-m-monochrom-typ-246-vs-m10-p-vs-sl2/

Edited by RexGig0
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M240, they say upto 4000K is fine.

M8 is totally fine at its max ISO, if you watch for exposure meter to be in the middle.

I really don't have issues with M8/M9 in any light. Just as with film M. 

Instead of paying more for less expensive, get small Leica labeled TTL flash. I have one. If I can't use flash f1.4-1.5 lenses are another proven solution.

And honestly, digitally amplified CMOS high ISO outcome isn't really impressive. 

I went full cycle. From short fear of high ISO to 12600 and higher for decades and by now I finally figured out why some aren't pushing it high :)

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M240 would be a good step up in iso perfornance, yet not state of the art.   I use it despite it's age and continue to be extremely pleased with it's images.  Lightroom recently added AI denoise and it significantly improves color and luminance noise, beyond anything we've had prior.  I believe Topaz is also good but have no experience.   

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Adding one or 2 stops ISO performance seems to be possible with the M240 generation. Of course the monochrome variants of any M generation add an other 2 stops in low light performance.

But did you try shooting RAW at base ISO 160 and then pulling the shadows in PP? With today's software one can gain up to 4 stops in the shadows. When I get in low light, I just open my lens fully, then choose the longest acceptable shutter time (1/15 or 1/30) and shoot manual at ISO 160. All shots will be underexposed to some degree, but I lift the shadows in PP as needed.

This way you will avoid using ISO that is higher than needed for each shot, and results are the same or even better than shooting at higher ISO in camera. (as long as you use RAW files)

Edited by dpitt
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Thanks all for your responses

2 days ago i rceived a 28/2.8 asph V2, and today i'm testing it at 640iso, 2.8 at 1/30.

This lens allows me to be wide open, and be sharp.

Let's see how it goes.

I don't think i'll go more that 2.7K..., i don't want to sell the my Blad, or the Rolleiflex, but at one point i'm in doubt....

I don't knew monochromes have less noise for the same ISO, interesting..

Tomorrow i'll test 160 base iso, underexposed, and push in PP, Lightroom IA denoise seems to be a good tool to try too.

As ko fe sais, i've born an grow in film, and the tri-x gives me all what i need it.

2.7 don't seems that mutch today....prices are going high these days...

 

Thanks all for your responses

 

 

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On 9/24/2023 at 3:25 AM, fabianoliver said:

...

Tomorrow i'll test 160 base iso, underexposed, and push in PP, Lightroom IA denoise seems to be a good tool to try too.

...

My M8 is almost exclusively used at ISO 160. Pushing 2 stops (ISO 640) should be no issue at all. In extreme cases of HDR type shots, I have pushed the shadows up to 4 stops (ISO 2500 eq.) It works fine in B&W and with modern noise reduction also in color.

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1 hour ago, dpitt said:

My M8 is almost exclusively used at ISO 160. Pushing 2 stops (ISO 640) should be no issue at all. In extreme cases of HDR type shots, I have pushed the shadows up to 4 stops (ISO 2500 eq.) It works fine in B&W and with modern noise reduction also in color.

I use this method for my M10 as well, shooting almost exclusively at base ISO (200). There is virtually no difference in the end result and several advantages: Never higher ISO than needed, no burnt out highlights, and when shooting manually - one less thing to worry about.

Edited by evikne
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vor 6 Stunden schrieb jaapv:

Topaz Photo AI and Topaz Denoise are more effective at removing noise than any camera upgrade and cost a lot less

.You’ll also find that using the fast Voigtländer lenses will gain you  EV stops. 

Try Topaz first is my recommendation too.

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I think the M240 is becoming the sleeper M buy in the used market. It received too much dislike from (some) traditionalists and lifestyle Leica owners because it can do video and because it is fatter than a M6. For real world photography it remains great, has no widespread latent defects/failure modes, its 24mp is all that is needed for most photography, and up to ISO 3200/6400 can handle low light well. As others have said, noise reduction in Topaz and Lightroom can take it to still lower levels of light, and the Monochrom is even better. 

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On 9/23/2023 at 4:25 PM, fabianoliver said:

So what can be the best buy ( i don't have money for a M10-11), i don't mind video, nor other gizmos, i like it simple, and don't have big budget.

What do you think can be the best M body for this scenario?

I'd have sai te M9 (I still use M 2 as my everday cameras) and they had dropped in price but have now gone up again. Basically I would suggest that any secondhand M series, full-frame digital camera will be fine. I'd probably buy from a dealer with a good warranty given that repair costs can be high. The cheapest M I've seen recently which fits these requirements was a post M9 (can't remember which model - M240?) camera at £1500 with a 6 month warranty.

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