Meisyong Posted December 9, 2022 Share #1 Posted December 9, 2022 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi folks, when I am using the magnification function in the Visoflex 2, I do realise the focus peaking accuracy is tad less accurate. Pardon the laymen description… At the point where the subject has the most ‘redness’, it wasn’t the most sharp image as compared to what my eyes could tell in the magnification mode. And true enough I took both photos, the image taken based on my eyes is more in focus. I should mention that I was trying to focus on the fine prints on a bottle and using a Noct 50 1.2 @ f2. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Seeking your insights please. Thanks. Edited December 9, 2022 by Meisyong Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 9, 2022 Posted December 9, 2022 Hi Meisyong, Take a look here Focus peaking accuracy on Visoflex 2. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
pop Posted December 9, 2022 Share #2 Posted December 9, 2022 7 minutes ago, Meisyong said: Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Yes. Focus peaking detects the places in the image where the contrast is highest. If the contrast of some place which should not be in focus is higher than where you wish to focus, focus peaking will still outline the part with the higher contrast, and not the part you wish highlighted. Try using the rangefinder. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Brown Posted December 9, 2022 Share #3 Posted December 9, 2022 Focus peaking is NEVER dead accurate, always use it as a non-referential aid tool. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erato Posted December 9, 2022 Share #4 Posted December 9, 2022 I always double check the visual clarity while after the Visoflex 2 hits the sweet spot. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinjun Posted December 9, 2022 Share #5 Posted December 9, 2022 I find it's pretty good if you turn the focus ring back and forth to find the point at which the element of interest is reddest. There may well be other, higher contrast image elements which are redder but which are out of focus. In other words, the relative redness at one focus setting across the field of view is not important, just the relative redness of the feature of interest as you vary the focus range. Sometimes, especially with less sharp lenses at full aperture and low contrast targets, you won't get the red highlighting, in which case you have to fall back on visual clarity / magnification. But overall I'm a fan of focus peaking. I find it especially useful when there are many high contrast image elements, such as leaves or grass, as you can see the focus zone moving back and forth and get a feel for depth of field. 2 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meisyong Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share #6 Posted December 14, 2022 Thanks everyone for your insights. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planetwide Posted December 14, 2022 Share #7 Posted December 14, 2022 Advertisement (gone after registration) The 50 Noct F1.2 has a fair bit of glow wide open, this will reduce focus peaking accuracy somewhat. Check it a f4 or 5.6, and it should be accurate. 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DenverSteve Posted December 17, 2022 Share #8 Posted December 17, 2022 I can't say whether you're doing anything wrong but I have been completely pleased at the accuracy and capability of my Visoflex 2. I don't use it as often as I thought I might but, when I do, it is as sharp as possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raizans Posted December 17, 2022 Share #9 Posted December 17, 2022 (edited) Focus peaking works best when there is a gradient of objects at various distances in the scene, and when there is only a very small amount of peaking in the viewfinder. Here’s a list of things that will reduce it: 1. Zoom in the viewfinder magnification. 2. Longer lenses, i.e., zoom in to focus if it’s a parfocal zoom lens. 3. Larger aperture, i.e., I hope you have a fast lens and/or focus with the lens wide open, and I hope your lens doesn’t have focus shift for when you stop down to taking aperture. 4. Camera orientation where most detail runs parallel with the long edge of the sensor. It has a direction just like a rangefinder spot or split image rangefinder on a focusing screen. 4. Less sensitive/lower peaking setting. 6. Closer focusing distance, especially macro. (Not a usable factor, obviously. 😁) Tweak the things you can until there is almost no peaking at all. Then set focus based on the parts that change when you turn the focusing ring, and ignore the parts that stay the same. Edited December 17, 2022 by raizans Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted December 17, 2022 Share #10 Posted December 17, 2022 I love my Visoflex 2 on the M11. But I must admit that I always focus by means of the rangefinder. I find that the RF is unbeatable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted December 17, 2022 Share #11 Posted December 17, 2022 Difficult to help you as i rarely use focus peaking. Generally auto zoom for nailing focus and/or the RF for good enough focusing. Now i never use red peaking colors on any camera anyway as i prefer white for my eye sight. Did you try the white peaking color too? Just curious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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