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Hello everyone 

A rogue wave came up the beach today and somehow jumped up to where my bag was (on a raised platform) and dumped a mix of salt water and sand into my camera bag, which was open because I was packing away   

After a heavy splash (but not submerged) I was not impressed at all to see my usually pristine M6J wet and with lots of sand. Particularly on the backplate all the grooves had sand left behind.  I returned home for a military style operation - air-blower,  hairdryer, soft toothbrush and cotton buds.  All went very well with the clean up. The only lingering water droplets seemed to be around the M6 style rewind crank .... when I blew that area with the air blower a few droplets appeared around the crank base so water had obviously gotten around there but didn’t seem to be much - because after a few droplets that were hiding there came over the course of a few blows from the air blower, none more appeared  

After removing all the the sand and drying externally, I removed the baseplate and opened the rear door. What really impressed me was that inside the camera behind these 2 access points was completely bone dry.  

The metering also works after a quick check but I didn’t try it for long as wanted to get the camera into my dry box for a couple of days, just in case any internals did experience any moisture  . 

My game plan once it’s out is to fully test the light meter, and also see if a flash fires on the hot shoe.  If both are fine then I am planning to just forget about it and carry on.

Is this a reasonable approach or should I consider having the camera checked over properly.... considering a) the corrosive nature of saltwater and b) obviously I couldn’t look under the top plate ?  

Because the lower body internally was so dry I am not really worried to be honest - it gave me a lot of confidence in the weather proofing.
 

But I thought I better ask more experienced members opinions - are these beauties known to handle a little splash bath ? 

Thanks in advance ! 
 

Edited by grahamc
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The two things can happen:

- once (or twice), we had our Leica (M and R) splashed with salt water, when returning home after drying on site the best we can

  • my wife's M5 was fine after the splash and having the M CLAed only some months later the M5's vulcanite some part becoming brittle
  • my M6 had some rust inside on some parts so the repairman did replace the parts, and since then this M6 works without any flaw for 30 years
  • our two Leica R had problems with the lightmeter untill returning for repairing

- the lenses M or R are fine, nothing to repair even the Zoom Angenieux 3x70 goes well untill now after drying with soft tissues

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Oh bad luck, Graham!

I hope you removed the battery because even tiny electrical currents and salt water can cause corrosion.  

I'd almost suggest submerging it in pure water, distilled if you have it, but I realise that you've dried it now.  I think your game plan is sound.

Good luck!

Pete.

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As side note, I did not ask the repair person if the M6 rusted parts were steel gears or not.

The main difference inside with more sophisticated M5 (more moving parts for meter) and simpler M6 were the steel/brass gears.

 

Graham,

I hope that everything goes well (so take your M6 for observation if inside there develop some rust) as soon as you can to a workshop.

Edited by a.noctilux
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Sorry to read of your troubles.  I think you have done what you can for now.  Its sounds like nothing got too far into the interior, which is a relief.  I'd be thinking about a CLA by a competent repaired person, giving them a detailed description of what happened and what you have done thus far.  After all, the M6J is a bit of a 'special' M and deserves top-treatment.

Good luck...

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My approavh would be to take out the battery, dry the camera as best as possible using paper towels, place it in a gallon size ziplock plastic bag with a dryer pack     https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1022198-REG/ruggard_sg_dc1_reusable_silica_gel_desiccant.html , leave it in there for 2-3 days and get it sent off for a CLA as soon as possible.

That, and pray.

Edited by Herr Barnack
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Once I dropped an M4 into 3 or so feet of salt water.  Ooops!  Repairs required stripping it down, cleaning, ect., more than half the total cost of the camera.  If I knew then what I think I know today, I'd just let sit in a bucket of distilled water over night, then air dry it for a couple days.  

Edited by TheBestSLIsALeicaflex
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Thanks for all the replies, very much appreciated 

You have convinced me that the camera should go off for a check / cleaning when it comes out of the dry box, just in case 

 

living in sometimes-humid australia, I have an electronic dry box - the kind that plugs into the mains and retains a constant low humidity. So I’m fairly confident the water/moisture part won’t be an issue but agree with others that any signs of corrosion should be checked for, and quick :)

thanks again as I would probably have left it if all worked  but I think it’s a good idea 

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Herr Barnack said:

My approavh would be to take out the battery, dry the camera as best as possible using paper towels, place it in a gallon size ziplock plastic bag with a dryer pack     https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1022198-REG/ruggard_sg_dc1_reusable_silica_gel_desiccant.html , leave it in there for 2-3 days and get it sent off for a CLA as soon as possible.

That, and pray.

Thankyou !  I think I am along this journey with the dry box replacing the plastic bag. Next step - cla & pray :) 

 

Good news I guess is there’s nothing in these things that can’t be replaced / restored.  But, optimistically , I think I was quite lucky - I just got that feeling from the clean up that it could’ve been much worse 

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21 hours ago, Danner said:

Sorry to read of your troubles.  I think you have done what you can for now.  Its sounds like nothing got too far into the interior, which is a relief.  I'd be thinking about a CLA by a competent repaired person, giving them a detailed description of what happened and what you have done thus far.  After all, the M6J is a bit of a 'special' M and deserves top-treatment.

Good luck...

Thanks , sound advice indeed !  And yes it is a lovely camera. Appreciate the info and agree it seems I was perhaps lucky with the the lack of internal water , but let’s see for sure 

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9 hours ago, TheBestSLIsALeicaflex said:

Once I dropped an M4 into 3 or so feet of salt water.  Ooops!  Repairs required stripping it down, cleaning, ect., more than half the total cost of the camera.  If I knew then what I think I know today, I'd just let sit in a bucket of distilled water over night, then air dry it for a couple days.  

Ouch. Sorry to hear it. This alway happens to my cameras sooner or later as I under estimate the very random nature of waves.  I think it may have looked worse than it was because of the sand that stuck to the camera. Made the aftermath look more frightening.  Let’s see how it goes 

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23 hours ago, a.noctilux said:

As side note, I did not ask the repair person if the M6 rusted parts were steel gears or not.

The main difference inside with more sophisticated M5 (more moving parts for meter) and simpler M6 were the steel/brass gears.

 

Graham,

I hope that everything goes well (so take your M6 for observation if inside there develop some rust) as soon as you can to a workshop.

Thanks. Yes I hear that the corrosion can be almost instant. So will take it. Cheers again Arnaud 

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3 hours ago, grahamc said:

Thankyou !  I think I am along this journey with the dry box replacing the plastic bag. Next step - cla & pray :) 

 

Good news I guess is there’s nothing in these things that can’t be replaced / restored.  But, optimistically , I think I was quite lucky - I just got that feeling from the clean up that it could’ve been much worse 

That's the strength of the analog M cameras - any component or part can be replaced if it can be tracked down, and there is no motherboard for sea water to fry or corrode.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got the following note back on the service report.  Doesn't sound like it was a big issue but definitely was good advice to have it checked and cleaned, thanks guys :

"THE ONLY VISIBLE DAMAGE IS RUST ON STEEL SPACER WASHERS UNDER REWIND KNOB. CLEAN RUST AS BEST POSSIBLE AND WHERE REQUIRED TREAT THE UNIT WITH ANTI CORROSIVE SPRAY. REPLACE THE WASHERS. REASSEMBLE AND TEST THE OPERATION."

Consistent with what I thought that a little water had gotten in around the rewind crank 

Edited by grahamc
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My FE2 took a salt bath (sailing) - as soon as I realised, I rinsed it and put it in clean, fresh water (battery out).  The insurer told me the bigest mistake people make when their cameras get dropped into water was to bend down and pick them up!  Total replacement under insurance.

Similarly, I knocked a glass of water onto the keyboard of my MacBook Pro.  Quickly turned it off, tipped it over, unscrewed the back, dried it, left it to dry out etc etc - lasted about two or three weeeks before it died completely.

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5 hours ago, IkarusJohn said:

My FE2 took a salt bath (sailing) - as soon as I realised, I rinsed it and put it in clean, fresh water (battery out).  The insurer told me the bigest mistake people make when their cameras get dropped into water was to bend down and pick them up!  Total replacement under insurance.

Similarly, I knocked a glass of water onto the keyboard of my MacBook Pro.  Quickly turned it off, tipped it over, unscrewed the back, dried it, left it to dry out etc etc - lasted about two or three weeeks before it died completely.

Did the Nikon FE2 survive it after the rinse ?   I think I was quite lucky but I never see to learn unfortunately - but maybe this time considering it was a near miss with the M6J .

I only have to look at a MacBook out of warranty and it dies ! 

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