Snowman Posted August 26, 2021 Share #1 Posted August 26, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, Just received my Q2 here in the UK and very pleased with the quality of the images, camera build quality and how easy it is to use. I've been doing a bit of shooting an Aperture Priority mode and overall quality is superb. However when I focus on a darker image which might have a sky background, I always find the sky (highlights) are over exposed. I used mainly multi-field metering and exposure comp. Using LR I can darken the sky, but results are not always that great (for the sky). All images are DNG, I do not shoot in JPG. Does the Q2 tend to blow out highlights? Would it be better to use exp.comp dial and dial down the exposure overall and bring the high lists back post? Thanks Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 26, 2021 Posted August 26, 2021 Hi Snowman, Take a look here Q2 over exposing highlights in sky. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Leica28 Posted August 26, 2021 Share #2 Posted August 26, 2021 A simple fix is to use a graduated ND filter to balance the exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share #3 Posted August 26, 2021 Just now, Leica28 said: A simple fix is to use a graduated ND filter to balance the exposure. Yes I thought of that but when compared to my old XPro2, the highlights are much more overexposed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ba Erv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #4 Posted August 26, 2021 So, use the histogram in the EVF and adjust exposure compensation appropriately to reduce highlights. It easy to recover the shadows in LR. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted August 26, 2021 Just now, Ba Erv said: So, use the histogram in the EVF and adjust exposure compensation appropriately to reduce highlights. It easy to recover the shadows in LR. Thanks, I give that a try. Currently the histogram is turned off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ba Erv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #6 Posted August 26, 2021 Personally, I leave my Q2M set at -1 exposure compensation. Once the highlights are blown on the monochrome sensor it’s game over. At least with the Q2 you might be able to recover something in one of the color channels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share #7 Posted August 26, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 10 minutes ago, Ba Erv said: Personally, I leave my Q2M set at -1 exposure compensation. Once the highlights are blown on the monochrome sensor it’s game over. At least with the Q2 you might be able to recover something in one of the color channels. Thanks, I'll try that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #8 Posted August 26, 2021 Setting at a fixed Compensation is compromising dynamic range. Look at the histogram in the viewfinder and adjust the EV value accordingly by the thumb wheel. You’ll find a variation between at least plus and minus two. That means that you are throwing away four stops of dynamic range. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted August 26, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted August 26, 2021 13 minutes ago, jaapv said: Setting at a fixed Compensation is compromising dynamic range. Look at the histogram in the viewfinder and adjust the EV value accordingly by the thumb wheel. You’ll find a variation between at least plus and minus two. That means that you are throwing away four stops of dynamic range. Got it, will try..thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #10 Posted August 26, 2021 And remember:Not all blown highlights are bad! But look for the spike on the right hand side. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ba Erv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #11 Posted August 26, 2021 (edited) Personally, I don’t EVER overexpose my highlights…but I’m using the monochrome sensor with different attributes. Nor, have I EVER lost 4 stops of DR by utilizing -1 EV comp in the conditions described. The only exception being with the SL2-S, then and only then, do I NEVER overexpose the highlights. YMMV. BTW, as has already been mentioned and (recapitulated) the histogram tool is easily accessed to eliminate the overexposure issue ad libitum. Edited August 26, 2021 by Ba Erv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #12 Posted August 26, 2021 You do lose it. There are scenes that need at least two stops over and you are at minus one. A blanket setting cannot replace proper exposure. There is no objection at all to blow out specular highlights; they are supposed to be white. That is what the histogram in the viewfinder is for. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marchyman Posted August 26, 2021 Share #13 Posted August 26, 2021 Which exposure metering mode, spot, center weighted, or multi-field? I usually have my Q on center weighted and take that into account when taking an image. Sometimes that means metering off of the sky. That works for me because I rarely use auto focus and when I do I use back button focusing. That lets me dedicate a half press of the shutter button to locking in exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ba Erv Posted August 26, 2021 Share #14 Posted August 26, 2021 2 hours ago, jaapv said: You do lose it. There are scenes that need at least two stops over and you are at minus one. A blanket setting cannot replace proper exposure. There is no objection at all to blow out specular highlights; they are supposed to be white. That is what the histogram in the viewfinder is for. Somehow I’ve survived without following your mantra but I’m a rule breaker at heart. One time I even tore the label off a mattress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luetz Posted August 27, 2021 Share #15 Posted August 27, 2021 I have only had my Q2 for a couple of months, but like to shoot at -2/3 exposure compensation all the time. I will then meter off extreme highlights before recomposing the scene. I generally use spot metering and find it produces more "keepers". 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share #16 Posted August 27, 2021 12 hours ago, marchyman said: Which exposure metering mode, spot, center weighted, or multi-field? I usually have my Q on center weighted and take that into account when taking an image. Sometimes that means metering off of the sky. That works for me because I rarely use auto focus and when I do I use back button focusing. That lets me dedicate a half press of the shutter button to locking in exposure. Personally I used Multifield, that's mainly habit coming from Fuji and Canon which used matrix or something like that. Good idea, I will try centre weighted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marchyman Posted August 27, 2021 Share #17 Posted August 27, 2021 12 hours ago, Snowman said: Personally I used Multifield, that's mainly habit coming from Fuji and Canon which used matrix or something like that. Understood. I switched from mostly matrix/multi-field to mostly center weighted when a Leica M replaced a Canon as my other camera in the bag. My M only does center weighted. I set up the Q that way so both cameras are somewhat the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdmesa Posted August 30, 2021 Share #18 Posted August 30, 2021 Recovered nearly-blown highlights with the Q2 (just like the M10/M10-P) look gross IMO, so protect them as if you were using the Q2M. This is not a solution, but making these changes made the Q2 exposure experience less painful for me: Use center-weighted metering – multi-field was less predictable for me. Even though you only use DNG, turn on DNG and JPEG. Change the JPEG style to the most neutral setting. Change the color space to Adobe RGB, which won't affect the DNGs – but it will make the live view image and histogram more closely match what you get when you open the DNG in post. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david strachan Posted August 30, 2021 Share #19 Posted August 30, 2021 One still has to consider the shadows and highlights with any camera , or exposure meter. Nothing makes a perfect exposure through the full brightness range on a sunny day landscape. The tools are there so use them...inc using the fix exposure (half press shutter trip) on digi cams to set the speed, for example. If you expose for a nice sky, you can often bring up the shadowed landscape in post processing...for example. Your immediate playback with digital is, for me, the whole point about ease of digi. Take it again if unhappy. ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 30, 2021 Share #20 Posted August 30, 2021 8 hours ago, david strachan said: f you expose for a nice sky, you can often bring up the shadowed landscape in post processing...for example. Or make two exposures, and merge them. HDR techniques are there for a reason, and not to make ugly HDR composites to gather likes on Flickr. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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