New lens, feels like old CL now digital

[ruskkyle]

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7 hours ago, eobet said:

Plus, nobody has mentioned this yet but the display on the TL2 shows all of this fringing as red lines I think? And it's quite all over the place... (I haven't managed to pull of that 6-bit coding yet, though... although I'm unsure if that has any bearing on what I'm seeing.)

Sounds like you have focus peaking enabled. Check your settings (not sure about the TL2 but on the CL it’s under Focusing > Focus Assist > Focus Peaking).

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[eobet]

20 hours ago, ruskkyle said:

Sounds like you have focus peaking enabled. Check your settings (not sure about the TL2 but on the CL it’s under Focusing > Focus Assist > Focus Peaking).

Thank you, yes reading about it now it sounds like a really neat idea in theory, but I just did some practical tests and couldn't really get close to the manual focus assist sharpness so far.

[ruskkyle]

Yeah I think of it more as a useful guide when time is of the essence, rather than something for critical focus. It started life in the video world for that reason. Also more accurate on longer lenses where DoF as naturally shallower.

[cpclee]

8 hours ago, eobet said:

Thank you, yes reading about it now it sounds like a really neat idea in theory, but I just did some practical tests and couldn't really get close to the manual focus assist sharpness so far.

I like to turn focus peaking sensitivity to low which makes the peaking more reliable.  And I set the color to green so it shows very well on human faces.  Outside of people photos I have not found I need focus peaking.

[eobet]

What are people who are using the VL 28/2 lens doing in post?

I'm using Affinity Photo (as I don't want to rent Adobe software and my old CS6 has begun to feel old) and when it comes to lens artifacts, I only remove the color fringing and then leave it alone. There doesn't seem to be any noticeable barrel distortion, for example? But should I be doing anything else that has to do with the lens?

Edited February 5, 2022 by eobet

[lct]

I have no experience with Affinity but i guess it allows for distortion correction the same way as your Photoshop version. I still use CS3 myself  but Photoshop Elements does it as well. You may wish to code your Ultron 28/2 asph as a Summicron 28/2 too. Coding is not indispensable but i did it for mine and it works fine so far. You will see "Summicron-M 1:2/28 ASPH" in the exif data of your pics though.

[eobet]

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2 hours ago, lct said:

I have no experience with Affinity but i guess it allows for distortion correction the same way as your Photoshop version. I still use CS3 myself  but Photoshop Elements does it as well. You may wish to code your Ultron 28/2 asph as a Summicron 28/2 too. Coding is not indispensable but i did it for mine and it works fine so far. You will see "Summicron-M 1:2/28 ASPH" in the exif data of your pics though.

I have tried to code it twice and both times failed. Still, I know that Affinity Photo does not have that lens in its database either (and no intention of adding it, plus the particular open database they use have been abandoned anyway, apparently) but I'm using it on a TL2, which means that the 28mm is more like 40mm anyway, which again I'm not sure how that impacts what I should be doing to the images in post...

[lct]

No need to have the lens in a database. Hand coding works fine for me. This way the CL will recognize the lens as a Summicron automatically. I have no experience with the TL2 though. Should work the same as the CL given that the Summicron did exist when the TL2 was launched. Re: hand coding you may wish to try black nail polish to paint the coding marks. Re: distortion correction the effect is visible on APS-C but i would not miss it that much if i had not it already.