Leica M3, images to be scanned

[bags27]

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44 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

At some point I need to buy some developer and fixer.   What is a good source for these in the USA (Amazon?) and what are some reliable brands for general use, preferably something that is a little forgiving in development time, maybe temperature.

D-76 is the standard "starter" developer, but one that a lot of experienced folks use, too. (Stopper and Fixer: either Kodak or Ilford). In the US, D-76 right now is not easy to get. But this is a terrific place for film generally and they will be getting some more in soon.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464817-Kodak-D-76-Film-Developer-to-Make-1-Gallon

But there are lots of good developers that are just as easy and forgiving. B&H is an excellent source with very quick delivery.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/develop-film-at-home-a-step-by-step-guide

Edited January 17, 2021 by bags27

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[RayD28]

I use Ilford DDX and Ilford fixer.  I shoot a couple rolls per month so one-shot mixing and developing is convenient.  Regarding tolerance to temperature, I'm not sure because I try to use 20° C.  I'm curious to know how tolerant developers are to temperature, too.  It's a pain to get exactly 20°.  But I'm trying to use a standard process to eliminate variables in case I have to trouble shoot problems, like exposure, when home developing.  

Also, are results much different if using the Massive Development Chart and adjusting development time for say 18°?

[MikeMyers]

1 hour ago, RayD28 said:

I shoot a couple rolls per month so one-shot mixing and developing is convenient.

I never considered that - does it come as a concentrate, or as powder?  I doubt I'll be shooting film much more than that.  I just assumed I would mix the developer or fixer as needed,  then pour back into a bottle for "next time".  Very good idea - I will look into this.

[tommonego@gmail.com]

vor einer Stunde schrieb RayD28:

I use Ilford DDX and Ilford fixer.  I shoot a couple rolls per month so one-shot mixing and developing is convenient.  Regarding tolerance to temperature, I'm not sure because I try to use 20° C.  I'm curious to know how tolerant developers are to temperature, too.  It's a pain to get exactly 20°.  But I'm trying to use a standard process to eliminate variables in case I have to trouble shoot problems, like exposure, when home developing.  

Also, are results much different if using the Massive Development Chart and adjusting development time for say 18°?

I use a 16oz (1/2L) stainless steel tank, 2 reels, one with a plastic top which is a little less messy than the stainless steel tops. I like liquid developers, they last a little longer than mixed developers since I may use a couple of rolls a month. So the Ilford DDX fits that bill. The B&H directions were very good, except for one thing, washing, it is far more evironmentally friendly to us a static wash, washing relys on the number of water changes the film receives. I have 3 2 Liter graduates filled with water all the same temp, I do prewet and mix my developer from this water and after the fix I do one wash with the water then use hypo clear after 3 minutes in hypo clear I fill the tank 9 times leaving the water in the tank for 30 seconds each time with a little agitation to clear air bubbles on the film. This also keeps the temperature consistent. For other chemistry I use a restaurant bussing tray for a water bath.

Also with loading film, if you have a closet or a room that can easily be blacked out it is much easier to load film than in a changing bag. 

[RayD28]

20 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

I never considered that - does it come as a concentrate, or as powder?  I doubt I'll be shooting film much more than that.  I just assumed I would mix the developer or fixer as needed,  then pour back into a bottle for "next time".  Very good idea - I will look into this.

DDX is a liquid concentrate that I use 1:4.  

[MikeMyers]

25 minutes ago, tommonego@gmail.com said:

Also with loading film, if you have a closet or a room that can easily be blacked out it is much easier to load film than in a changing bag.

I've got a room I can make completely dark, and I don't plan on using a changing bag.  I'll be using the stainless steel Nikor reels - I guess I better practice loading first before I turn the lights off.  It's been so long, I'm not sure I will remember how to get the film loading started.  I know I used to squeeze from top to bottom, so the film went between the rails more easily, but I don't remember if I somehow attached the film end.

[tommonego@gmail.com]

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vor 3 Minuten schrieb MikeMyers:

I've got a room I can make completely dark, and I don't plan on using a changing bag.  I'll be using the stainless steel Nikor reels - I guess I better practice loading first before I turn the lights off.  It's been so long, I'm not sure I will remember how to get the film loading started.  I know I used to squeeze from top to bottom, so the film went between the rails more easily, but I don't remember if I somehow attached the film end.

It is worth buying some outdated film to practice with, If you have loaded a lot of film the muscle memory takes over. But I have just found some films are different than others. I just used a roll of Foma 100 35mm and it was harder than Kodak film to load, seemed like a thinner base, also the roll was longer than the reel, just enough longer to be a pain, while Kodak and Ilford rolls just fill the reel. I did get one bend in the film (which I never do 😉). I also use Hewes reels which are significantly easier to load, because they have two pins to grab the sprockets on the film, they are also heavier stainless than most so they don't bend when dropped, their one disadvantage is that they are expensive even on EBay. I have some Nikor reels, may have to try them.

[Einst_Stein]

If I scan with Leica digital camera,.I scan a 35mm picture to match the sensor's resolution. That is, 16MP when using Leica XV with B+W 10X close-up filter. I have also used SL and M240, but found the XV AF is significant lighter and convenient on the copy stand bench. I don't see significant advantage to go 24MP or above. I guess there could be advantage if I shot with tripod or more steady hand.

However, I also shoot 35mm panorama (24mm x 54mm), in such case, I scan multi-shots and merge into 24mp (16MP x 1.5). 

I do find a big advantage to scan with multi-shots exposure bracketing and merge in PS (for wider dynamic range).  

 

[MikeMyers]

I guess you can all have a few good laughs at my expense.

Been putting it off for too long.  I bought 3 rolls of Ilford Delta 100 24 exposure (never heard of it before), and with some free time yesterday, the plan was to go around taking different type of photos, then drop the film off at a local processing lab.

First problem was learning the Sekonic exposure meter in my photos up above.  after two YouTube videos, it sort of made sense to me, so I went out on a two hour walkabout.  One block from my home I saw a photo I wanted to take of an old Land Rover, and while I thought I might be lining up the red and black arrows properly, the exposures made no sense to me, so I set the camera to my best guess, and took one photo.  Since I then had zero trust in what I was doing, I took another photo with my phone.  As it turns out, it wouldn't have made any difference, as the camera was capturing an image of the back side of my lens cap.

Lens cap went in pocket, where it stayed for the rest of the day.  I tried the meter again, and eventually found the right things to align, and was getting readings that made sense.  So, I found the next view I wanted to capture, and nothing happened.  Made a mental note that any time I take a photo, to use the film advance to be ready for it.  Otherwise this was likely to be a problem from then on - but now it's a habit, take photo, advance film.  The huge bright viewfinder on the M3 was wonderful, but I read a warning on CameraQuest that the metal eyepiece on the back of the camera is not very kind to prescription glasses.  Unfortunately, Camera Quest is out of stock - anyone here know where I can get something like this elsewhere?  I guess maybe I can buy a small rubber o-ring and glue it in place?  As the day went on, the M3 was a joy to use.  I metered for every shot, not because I had to, but because I wanted to get into the right habits of using the Sekonic.  I left it in "incident light" all day.  Maybe next time, I'll try it set for "reflected light".  It was lots of fun to be using the M3 after at least 50 years of having it sit around in my drawer.

So, film is finished, and I'll be taking it here:  https://darkroomanddigital.com

I was going to ask them to only develop the negatives, and I would scan them, but since it's only a test, I might as well see how well he scans them.  Not sure how that works - none of my current computers use a CD or DVD - maybe I can bring him an empty memory stick.  Or maybe he just uploads them?  I'll find out soon enough.

After half a century of sitting around unused, I have no idea how well the M3 is working.  It makes the right sounds, and it seems ok - it stayed very clean during all this time.  Gee, if I use my M10 this afternoon, I wonder if I'll be trying to "wind the film" after each shot!  :-)

[tommonego@gmail.com]

I had my lens cap experience, I was a Junior in college, had just bought an M3 from my cousin for $125 with a 35mm lens and goggles. I was so into it, took it to a class, the prof was Harry Callahan, a famous art photographer in the '50s, 60's and 1970's. I was taking a few pictures in class, when Harry taps me on the shoulder and wispers "lens cap" in my ear. Never so embarassed.

[MikeMyers]

Ouch!!!   ....but I bet you never forgot from then on!   $125 - wow!  I should have bought more Leica gear while it was still affordable.

[tgray]

I always use Kodak Xtol, Ilford Rapid fixer, and Kodak Photoflo. If you aren’t going to be developing a lot, a liquid concentrate developer might be better (Tmax or DDX). One shot the developer and photoflo, reuse the Fixer. 
 

Depending on which coast you are on Freestyle Photo or B&H Photo will have everything you need. 
 

While I love Tri-X, T-Max 400 is really a stunning film.  

[tommonego@gmail.com]

Am 11.2.2021 um 11:09 schrieb MikeMyers:

Ouch!!!   ....but I bet you never forgot from then on!   $125 - wow!  I should have bought more Leica gear while it was still affordable.

Yes it made me very good with lens caps

That was 1971, you could get a Leica for that price. But prices started going up from there. In the late '70s I bought a working beat up M2 for $150, it was really ugly, but didn't need any work for 10 or so years. That was probably a better deal.

 

[Edgar1920]

Am 11.2.2021 um 14:28 schrieb MikeMyers:

Gee, if I use my M10 this afternoon, I wonder if I'll be trying to "wind the film" after each shot!  :-)

Hi Mike

I also practice Leica M photography with models ranging from M2 to M10 and what I miss so much in my digital ones is the film winding action respectively it’s mechanical feeling. No digital M can give you this.

Concerning development I use a changing bag so that I can spoil in the films on my daylight living room table. Quite practical accessory. I always develop my self as it is 30 mins only for one development including rinsing. All other options would take more time and I am always amazed when the film comes out of the tank.

For scanning it took me some time especially on color slides to get what I saw on the slides, including color calibration with an IT target on my now old (but still very well running) Reflecta ProScan 7200.
I think today I would first try to digitize with a digital camera. What then is important is to have a good lens (or full correction of its flaws like distortion and vignetting) and preferably a APS-C sensor than full frame as this sensor has higher depth of field. DOF must be higher than uneven film. In order to reduce unevenness of film I cut and put the film in the paper pouches shortly after drying and the let them under a big book during the night. Next morning the film is very even and stays so. Lab development usually gives you well curved negatives.

Concerning lab scans: the are often of lower resolution and only JPG instead of TIFF or high priced. I now scan every negative with 3600dpi, independent if it seems to be a good or bad capture. So I have a full archive of my analog work.

BW scan is not complicated as you do not have to care about colors.

A scanner ha the following advantages: No uneven quality due to the digitizing lens’ flaws, possibility to repair dust, scratches and marks on color film (with infrared channel scanning); this feature does not work on BW film (and Kodachrome) as the silver does not permit the use of IR scan. 
The disadvantage is surely the slow digitizing process. Depending on how you work this does not matter if you are using your computer during an hour for something else, like post processing the precedent film.

Then one remark in the Kodak Plus-X (which I have never used): it seems that the Kodak Double X (movie film) has a similar characteristic from what I have read. I have bought a 400ft roll last year and work exclusively with this film now since. I really like it and used it until now in a range between 125 and 1000 ISO with pleasing results for my taste. 
 

You find some few examples here (developer used see tags): https://www.flickr.com/gp/149009476@N07/KSSS00

I will soon add some of my experience with this film on my website rimpl.photo which ist still under construction. 
This film sells at FPP in 100ft rolls as well as already canned. Cinestill also stellt this Film. 
 

Sunny 16 for me works fine in most films (double x has some less exposure latitude and requires a bit more precise metering)  with little aid sometimes from my light meter app on my smartphone when light conditions change or just to verify. This sharpens my sense of estimating light and until the illumination does not change I need no new metering. 
 

I wish you much fun with your M3. She will be gabby to get her old bones (or gear wheels) moved again, I think.

Best regards, Frank