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Beginner's Guide to Shooting with M10 - Kindergarten Post


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3 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

Two cents?  Sounds more like $100 to me.   🙂  Thank you!

I'm very glad this helped you. I'll send you my Paypal link later for the $100 😜 Just kidding 😂

To work in manual, It's IMHO, the easiest way (not until you master it) to achieve your goals. The way you have full control and get what you are expecting to get, not surprise. 

Take a look at this thread. Here I explain how with a very few settings we can be faster and more efficient. This is my way.

Happy clicks

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35 minutes ago, jaapv said:

And this? :lol:  :lol:

 

I am signed in - otherwise I couldn't be posting these messages.  

I click on my name a the top, then go to PROFILE, but I don't see anything about a "footer" or whatever it was called.

.....AHA!!!!!   Found it - SIGNATURE !!!!!    

I'll fix it now.

I see there's also a link to display signatures - that's turned off, which is probably why I didn't know it was still showing up for me.  Long, log ago - 2009 - I think it showed up automatically.  Maybe something was changed?

One of the choices was "link" or "embedded".  I think "link" will be less obtrusive.

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42 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

I didn't "see".   (SNIP)...I'm also doing a lousy job of seeing the incorrect image on my screen, and not figuring out how to fix it, or to even recognize that it needs to be fixed.

 

 

Not incidental; rather the essence, and hardest part of photography, from capture to editing to final display.  Using the tools between the ears, as I call them. Anyone can learn the other tools rather quickly; the trick is seeing and deciding when, where and to what degree to apply them.  
 

I do recommend, however, sticking to a single processing software (and camera), at least initially.  Doesn’t matter which one as long as it has a comfortable enough interface so that you can reduce variables, learn the tools and make them second nature.  Seems like you’re on your way... and can concentrate on your seeing and judgment... the important part.

Jeff

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3 minutes ago, Jeff S said:

Not incidental; rather the essence, and hardest part of photography, from capture to editing to final display.  Using the tools between the ears, as I call them. Anyone can learn the other tools rather quickly; the trick is seeing and deciding when, where and to what degree to apply them.  
 

I do recommend, however, sticking to a single processing software (and camera), at least initially.  Doesn’t matter which one as long as it has a comfortable enough interface so that you can reduce variables, learn the tools and make them second nature.  Seems like you’re on your way... and can concentrate on your seeing and judgment... the important part.

Jeff

Yep, I agree.  I need to pay more attention to these things here.  If you look on my SmugMug gallery, m.smugmug.com, you'll see stuff that I think is better, but some of that is due to automation in my camera or phone - composition has been up to me.

I agree - unless l get stuck, like needing to un-reverse a mirror image, my processing is in PhotoLab, and the only camera I plan on using (unless I need something special) is my M10.  At some point I will need to use at least my Nikons enough to not forget like I did with the Leica.  And any plans to buy the latest Fuji are now vaporware.  Ain't gonna happen.

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1 hour ago, MikeMyers said:

Hmm, I've got a three year old 21" iMac and a many-years-older high resolution ASUS monitor.

I'll see if it has a calibration procedure, or if I should buy a Spyder which used to be the best way of calibrating a screen.  Maybe there is something newer and better?

I use i1Profiler and the i1 Display Pro.

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1 hour ago, MikeMyers said:

Yep, I agree.  I need to pay more attention to these things here.  If you look on my SmugMug gallery, m.smugmug.com, you'll see stuff that I think is better, but some of that is due to automation in my camera or phone - composition has been up to me.

I agree - unless l get stuck, like needing to un-reverse a mirror image, my processing is in PhotoLab, and the only camera I plan on using (unless I need something special) is my M10.  At some point I will need to use at least my Nikons enough to not forget like I did with the Leica.  And any plans to buy the latest Fuji are now vaporware.  Ain't gonna happen.

Sounds good :) 

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21 minutes ago, jaapv said:

I use i1Profiler and the i1 Display Pro.

If I need to ask you more about this, and if there isn't already a thread that discusses it, I'll start a new one.

I assume this is what you have?   https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/798930-REG/X_Rite_EODIS3_i1Display_Pro.html

Another option from the same people:   https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506566-REG/x_rite_eodisstu_i1display_studio.html.  

 

I can work on this starting next week.  I know I need to do something - the images I have posted here look different on my two displays as it is.  This thread can stay focused on the M10 and my slowly learning how to use it - which I'm pretty sure may help lots of other people.

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1 hour ago, Jeff S said:

If this pandemic goes on much longer, I might have to re-learn my tools as well, especially eyes and brain.  ☹️

Jeff

Since I'm mostly staying home, doing nothing other than staying safe, I have all the time in the world to work with the M10.  I'm losing track of what day it is, and I'm struggling to find safe places to go to take interesting photos.  It feels like I'm also taking a crash course in PhotoLab, as I'm doing things I need to learn about, to get them right.  I live in Miami Beach, Florida, with is not considered a safe place to be, but maybe nowadays, there is no place that's "safe".  Maybe I can buy a ticket to go to the Space Station until they come up with a treatment or a vaccine?

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I took three photos yesterday, the one I'm posting now, the snapshot of me while walking to my elevator, and a grab shot of a Miami Beach Sunset.  This image I spent a lot of time on, mostly trying to find a good spot to get a composition I liked.  I wanted most of the image out of focus, so I set the camera 100 ISO.  Again, for minimum depth of field, the 50mm lens was set to f/2.  To get what I thought was a reasonable exposure, that left the shutter speed at 1/4000th.  When I got home, I didn't like the perspective, as I was shooting down on the pipes and valves, so I used the tools in PhotoLab 4 to take most (but not all) of that out.  Also, remembering my lesson in white balance, I used the bright white area in the background to adjust the white balance.  That fixed a problem I wasn't aware of until I did it.  I guess that eye dropper is going to be one of my friends from now on.

I doubt anyone here (unless they're a plumber) is going to get excited about valves and pipes and controls - to me, it was just shapes and colors, that I wanted to sort of make a painting of.

Technically, the camera was in (M)anual mode, but the settings came from what I wanted - the only thing the camera did was to give me an appropriate shutter speed for my other choices.

I've got to thank all of you for the assistance earlier in this thread; I learned a lot, and I feel a little more comfortable working with the M10.

Maybe when the M12 comes out, I will be able to afford a M11.  Maybe it will have built-in GPS.  Maybe there will be a way to connect it to my iPhone, and use that for GPS.

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I bought a used Visoflex EVF, but when I went to attach it, there is no way to do so unless I remove my thumb rest.

Very frustrating.  Without the thumb rest, I never feel like I have a good grip on the M10.  Maybe with a strap around my neck, I won't feel the need for the thumb rest.  I guess I'm spoiled.

There's also the consideration that Visoflex, GPS, and other things make a dent in my battery charge.  Also, if I'm going to use the Visoflex, why not just use my Nikon or Fuji?  

 

I guess GPS and the Visoflex are things that eventually might be nice, but they're not all that important to me.  At some point they may prove useful for something I want to do.  Maybe.

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35 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

I bought a used Visoflex EVF, but when I went to attach it, there is no way to do so unless I remove my thumb rest.

Very frustrating.  Without the thumb rest, I never feel like I have a good grip on the M10.  Maybe with a strap around my neck, I won't feel the need for the thumb rest.  I guess I'm spoiled.

I'm not allowed to divulge the secret to this but maybe somebody can email you?

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2 hours ago, MikeMyers said:

I bought a used Visoflex EVF, but when I went to attach it, there is no way to do so unless I remove my thumb rest.

Buy a Thumbie. I was in a similar predicament, couldn't use my 21mm OVF and my Thumbs Up at the same time. The (less expensive) Thumbie has been excellent, and my Thumbs Up has been sitting unused in my camera case for two years.

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1 hour ago, astrostl said:

Buy a Thumbie. I was in a similar predicament, couldn't use my 21mm OVF and my Thumbs Up at the same time. The (less expensive) Thumbie has been excellent, and my Thumbs Up has been sitting unused in my camera case for two years.

Thanks, I just sent an email to barnet@globalnet.co.uk asking about it.  Or, I can use the link that you posted.  Hopefully it's available, in-stock, some place in the USA.  I'd like the real thing, not somebody's copy.  Again, thank you!

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2 hours ago, 250swb said:

I'm not allowed to divulge the secret to this but maybe somebody can email you?

Shhh......      maybe you can send me the message in morse code?    .....or carrier pigeon?       I just sent an email here:  barnet@globalnet.co.uk   so maybe I'll find out if I can buy one in the USA, and I don't want to buy somebody's copy from ebay.   If I pay for it, the money should go to the person who designed and developed it.  But no rush.  I'm sure I'll eventually find one.  :-)

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13 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

Shhh......      maybe you can send me the message in morse code?    .....or carrier pigeon?       I just sent an email here:  barnet@globalnet.co.uk   so maybe I'll find out if I can buy one in the USA, and I don't want to buy somebody's copy from ebay.   If I pay for it, the money should go to the person who designed and developed it.  But no rush.  I'm sure I'll eventually find one.  🙂

Guess what ‘swb’ stands for. (Not Ferrari 250 ‘short wheel base’ in this case).

Jeff

Edited by Jeff S
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This might be a test to see how much I've learned from you guys.  It was taken this evening, as the sun was just about setting.  The "Clear View" that looked so fake yesterday is turned down to just a little above the "off" position.  I ran the white balance tool using one of the cruise ships, that are painted white, and the last thing I did was to move the "temperature slider" a very small amount towards "warm", which brought out the golden glow in the sky and on the reflection in the water.  The sun is just barely peeking through an opening near the top of a building - more than that, and the whole area was blown out.  Slightly after that, the sun vanished.

It was taken with my ancient 90mm Summicron, and I left the shutter in "slow burst" mode so I would probably have two images for each photo.  

Looking at the small version I just copied down below, it looks like I should have left more sky in the photo.  Looking at the large version on my computer screen, it's fine, as I can wander all around the photo and see details.  To be truth full, I didn't see all those details when I took the photo.  I was watching the boat at the bottom, waiting until it got to a good spot to balance the photo.

When I see the photo on my external ASUS 27" monitor, it looks fine.  When I view it on my 21" iMac, it looks dark.  I guess I really need that screen calibrator.  Do you guys see it as too light, good, or too dark?

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Edited by MikeMyers
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If it really was that yellow -one would expect some red-magenta too-it really is an improvement. However, I still don’t like the effect on the buildings on the horizon and I suspect that clear view filter. Could you link to a DNG ? 

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