Test results: which of 21 Leica M lenses can cover 44x33 (Hasselblad X) sensors?

[onasj]

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Here are results of testing 21 Leica M lenses for their ability to cover the medium format 44x33 mm sensor of a Hasselblad X camera.  I used a CFV-ii-50c back, a 907x, and a Novoflex LEM to HAX adapter, but I assume that these results will hold for other camera systems that also use the Sony IMX161 50 MP 44x33 mm sensor, including both Fuji GFX 50 cameras and both Hasselblad X1D cameras.

In general, don't expect that any Leica M lens will perfectly cover an entire medium format sensor with no vignetting—even the "cropped" 44x33 mm sensor.  Of course most of these lenses don't even cover a 36x24 mm sensor without at least some vignetting.  Some lenses come very close though, and are more than usable to produce excellent images.  As a general rule, you will see less vignetting at close focusing distances than at infinity, and you will see less vignetting at moderate apertures (around f/2.8, typically) than at very large apertures or very small apertures.

"NO" means dark corners are present at any focusing distance or any aperture—that is, the lens's image circle does not cover the entire sensor.

"YES" means there might be some vignetting or, less common, some purple color shift in the corners, but you can get the subject image to cover the entire sensor.  I provide notes to explain each YES when appropriate.

The version of each of the 21 lenses below is the *most recently produced version*, even though some (like the Stemar, the 50/2.8, and the 75/1.4) are no longer in production.  The results may differ if you use an older version of the same lens since the optical formulae of many Leica M lenses changed as new versions were produced.

 

WATE at 16 or 18 mm: NO

*WATE at 21 mm: YES, some vignetting

21/3.4: NO

24/3.8: NO

28/1.4: NO

28/2: YES, but with strong vignetting especially at or near infinity, and at wide apertures

28/2.8: YES, but with strong vignetting and purple corners

Stemar: YES, but the divider produces some artifacts at top of the frame.  Still, it's very cool to generate 3-D stereo image pairs using this old Leica lens and a current medium-format sensor!

MATE at 28: NO

MATE at 50: YES, but only at near distances

MATE at 35: YES, but with strong vignetting at the very corners

35/1.4: YES at closer distances or apertures around f/2.8, with some color shift

*35/2: YES, with some vignetting

50/0.95: NO

*50/1.4: YES, with only slight vignetting at infinity

50/2 APO: YES, but only between f/3.5-6.3

*50/2.8: YES, a little vignetting wide open at infinity

*75/1.25: YES, slight vignetting at infinity 

75/1.4: YES, but only around f/2.8 and at close distances

*75/2 APO: YES, almost perfect until f/8, only slight vignetting

*90/2 APO: YES, with only slight vignetting

90/2.4: YES, but only at mid/near distances

90/4: NO

135/3.4 APO: NO

Overall, the lenses I marked with an asterisk are the most useable: the WATE at 21 mm, the 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/2.8, 75/1.25, 75 APO, and 90 APO.  Which is really a not a bad outfit if your goal is to shoot your small Leica M lenses on a cropped medium format sensor at a range of focal lengths. 

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[jaeger]

great info, thanks!
 

Any chance to test 21 and 24 summilux?

[onasj]

6 hours ago, jaeger said:

great info, thanks!
 

Any chance to test 21 and 24 summilux?

I don’t have either of those lenses, but based on how the other wide angle lenses behaved, I would be surprised if they were ok.

[jaeger]

8 hours ago, onasj said:

I used a CFV-ii-50c back, a 907x, and a Novoflex LEM to HAX adapter

I don't understand how Hasselblad 907x to work with Leica lenses, it has the shutter build inside the lens am I correct?

[onasj]

You set the Hasselblad camera or back to electronic shutter.  So if your subject is prone to rolling shutter artifacts, you are best using Hasselblad lenses or a Leica camera.

[jaeger]

1 hour ago, onasj said:

You set the Hasselblad camera or back to electronic shutter.  So if your subject is prone to rolling shutter artifacts, you are best using Hasselblad lenses or a Leica camera.

Ah, that's the trick!  everyone I asked they go "NO!" 

We cannot use flash neither without shutter so all studio works are no go. 

 

[Winedemonium]

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This is really very helpful, thank you.

I am currently pondering a lens kit selection for a return to using the M system after some time away. I also have a 907X and 4/45P on the way already, and was wondering about the dual use possibilities for some M glass. The 50APO and 50SX are on my shortlist - each has its strengths and characteristics on the M, but it is interesting that the 50SX (and related 75APO) offer better coverage than the 50APO. 90APO I am not surprised works well, but I was surprised to read that the 135APO didn't work out. That's a pity. Interesting that 35SN worked better than 35SX. 

So, thank you once again. 

Are you finding in practice that you are actually using any of your M lenses on the 907X, or are you mostly sticking with XCD glass @onasj?

[onasj]

50 minutes ago, Winedemonium said:

This is really very helpful, thank you.

I am currently pondering a lens kit selection for a return to using the M system after some time away. I also have a 907X and 4/45P on the way already, and was wondering about the dual use possibilities for some M glass. The 50APO and 50SX are on my shortlist - each has its strengths and characteristics on the M, but it is interesting that the 50SX (and related 75APO) offer better coverage than the 50APO. 90APO I am not surprised works well, but I was surprised to read that the 135APO didn't work out. That's a pity. Interesting that 35SN worked better than 35SX. 

So, thank you once again. 

Are you finding in practice that you are actually using any of your M lenses on the 907X, or are you mostly sticking with XCD glass @onasj?

XCD glass is outstanding in general and AF is useful so I’m mostly shooting with XCD lenses. But if I wanted a focal length not in my XCD lenses or a larger aperture, I wouldn’t hesitate to use those Leica M lenses in my original post.

[Fedro]

this is very useful Onasj, thank you so much. I have used the 50 Lux on the Xcd to good results also

Fedro

[frame-it]

this list is also helpful

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uxvvpxJ9QVFFyh0pW2rs9KBmUW9vlh-d-VnbcLDCTn8/edit#gid=0

[Craggs 101]

On 1/10/2021 at 3:07 AM, frame-it said:

this list is also helpful

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uxvvpxJ9QVFFyh0pW2rs9KBmUW9vlh-d-VnbcLDCTn8/edit#gid=0

Hmmm.. I got some pronounced vignetting at 4:3 on both the Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 and the Leica R 90mm, the latter going black in the corners, both of which this spreadsheet indicates as green.

[Einst_Stein]

Good infos, to take away:  "Forget it. use Hasselblad lens!".  

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Onasj,

If you want to have even coverage with a larger format than 24mm X 36mm you might try a 135mm F4.5 Hektor. It might be interesting.

Best Regards,

Michael

[geoffreyg]

On 1/9/2021 at 6:07 PM, frame-it said:

this list is also helpful

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uxvvpxJ9QVFFyh0pW2rs9KBmUW9vlh-d-VnbcLDCTn8/edit#gid=0

What is nice about this is the 1:3 panoramic option is listed. One could see (in a pinch) usefulness in this, especially as such a low cost option... 

[algrove]

Cannot one just factor in some vignetting during composition and add plenty of room for eventual cropping in post? So you lose a few MP, but who cares since I use the 100C?

[frame-it]

33 minutes ago, algrove said:

Cannot one just factor in some vignetting during composition and add plenty of room for eventual cropping in post? So you lose a few MP, but who cares since I use the 100C?

exactly!

but many "interesting" people say they don't wanna crop even 1 pixel, mostly just to prove a point

[algrove]

2 hours ago, frame-it said:

exactly!

but many "interesting" people say they don't wanna crop even 1 pixel, mostly just to prove a point

Heck I crop M images, Q images, SL images and X2dii images so what would be new to me?