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i am hoping someone can help me with this:
 
i have a M6TTL .58 magnification viewfinder and a new M10-p.
 
i recently bought a 1964 copy of the first version (red scale) Elmarit-M 28mm f/2.8 lens.
 
on both cameras, the in camera meter is overexposed when it says it is properly exposed, meaning, when i set the shutter speed and aperture to the place where the in camera meter says correct (the red dot in viewfinder), i find the shots are 3 stops or so overexposed. 
 
do you know if there is a compatibility issue with this lens and these in camera meters for M6 and M10-p?
 
i did find this:
 
 
also, on both cameras, the 28mm framelines do not appear unless i move the lever on the the front of the camera to the right and hold it in place.
 
curious what anyone knows or thinks?
 
thank you so much
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The Elmarit-M f/2.8 28mm up to serial number 231 4921 will not meter correctly on the M6. As for the framelines, this lens dates from the time that the M did not have 28 mm framelines, so it won't bring them up.You will need a 28 mm viewfinder in the hot shoe and a handheld exposure meter.

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It's also detailed in the manuals of digital Ms : same problem as Super Angulon 21 3,4 : metering is faulty for too short distance between back lens and shutter' surface (on M5 and CL, there was even mechanical interference with the meter's arm... Elmarit V1 was short-lived also for this)

BTW : is your item a "Wetzlar" or a "Canada" ? Wetzlars are rather scarce, and valued collectibles... 😉  If isn't a problem for you, could you detail its Serial Number ? If Wetzlar and Red Scale, ought to be in the 2.061/2 .xxx ... 

Edited by luigi bertolotti
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hrryxgg

The short version is that your 28mm v.1 sits so close to the shutter curtain that it covers the "white spot" on the shutter that the M6 meter measures from, blocking the metering cell's view of the white area. Seeing no white, just black, the meter overexposes. The problem is that long black tube that sticks out of the back of the v.1.

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The longer version is that - in theory - the symmetrical design of this lens, that puts the back element so close to the shutter, makes it a "better" lens optically than the retrofocus v.2 that replaced it and leaves room for the meter to work. Especially as regards distortion - it avoids projecting straight lines in buildings, for example, as curved or wavy lines. The 28 v.1 keeps lines straighter, and is also quite a bit sharper than the retrofocus v.2.

At the time Leica made that lens (1965), they thought any serious photographer would want an excellent lens, not a metering camera (real photographers used separate hand-held meters ;) ). So they did not plan for the needs of TTL (through-the-lens) metering, which came 10 years (M5) or 20 years (M6) later.

Get a separate, pocketable meter, and you can use your v.1 just fine on any Leica film body.

As to the framelines - just use the whole viewfinder of your M6 to frame the picture. That will be at least as accurate as using the 28 lines themselves. (I think the v.1 brings up the 50/75 lines, but it has been 40 years since I used one).

 

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