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Leica M10 Monochrom Images

Likaleica

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Posted by jaapv,

How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2048 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “choose Fil
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eawriter

eawriter

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On 2/2/2023 at 8:21 AM, ramarren said:

I can't say that I know how HP5 renders or what is "native" for it since a B&W film's rendering qualities are so dependent upon exposure, filtering, processing, and all the other et cetera. But, if it is a slightly less contrasty look you are going for with the M10-M, try using a green filter on your lens. You can see the differences between rendering on an Xrite Color Checker between no filter, orange filter, and green filter in my post on this subject here. 

I tend to use a green filter most of the time in daylight conditions, and of course strive for best exposure (typically, +0.3 to +0.7 EV for raw captures). I find it separates tones subtly and effectively. An orange filter in daylight tends to accentuate contrast even further, with less effect when used under artificial illumination.

G

Now that's an approach I haven't heard before. I should try that. I have a green filter, but use it only to lighten foliage and/or separate lighter and darker leaves. Also, I read everywhere to underexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 with the Monochrom to protect the highlights. Are you overexposing to make up for the amount of light the green filter cuts out? Also, I do portraits more than anything else, and use a yellow or orange filter to smooth out skin tones in open shade; I've never tried a green filter for faces. 

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Likaleica
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Great Camera 

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eawriter
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After dozens of posts in the M246 thread, this is my first in this thread, because, after resisting for a year, I sold the M246 and bought the M10M.  We (finally) had a rainstorm in the San Franc

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Ken Abrahams

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Level Three - 21 Super Elmar 3,4

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ramarren

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5 hours ago, eawriter said:

Now that's an approach I haven't heard before. I should try that. I have a green filter, but use it only to lighten foliage and/or separate lighter and darker leaves. Also, I read everywhere to underexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 with the Monochrom to protect the highlights. Are you overexposing to make up for the amount of light the green filter cuts out? Also, I do portraits more than anything else, and use a yellow or orange filter to smooth out skin tones in open shade; I've never tried a green filter for faces. 

No need to do anything if you're using the Monochrom's built in metering with a green filter ... since it reads through the lens, it will autoadjust exposure for you. (.. and a green filter does not throw off the metering like a deep red will.)

I read the same myth about underexposing by 1/3 or 2/3 EV with the Monochrom. It's driven by the concern that you don't have a multichannel image that tools like LR can use differing channels to rebuild a blasted channel. But my metering calibration tests with the M10-M proved to me that, for raw capture, my camera was already underexposing by -0.3 to 0 EV compared to what I like in a raw file, so I normally set the EV Compensation in Auto mode to 0 or +0.3 EV, sometimes more. I do not get any unexpected blown highlights (I get blown highlights when a scene's dynamics are beyond what the sensor can handle, but then you cannot help that without damaging mid and low tones through severe underexposure anyway. 

A green filter on light-skinned people often shows some undesirable skin texture so I'd experiment and see what your subjects' skin looks like that way. If you're shooting darker-skinned people, a green filter will often give skin textures that are very pleasing and difficult to achieve with no filter or a yellow to orange filter. 

Experiment ... Film for a Monochrom is cheap! LOL! ;)

G

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wolan

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panoramer

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Old Cannon ...

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Leica M10M +  35mm Lux FLE 1 + Orange Filter

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wolan

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t00l1024

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Back at White Sands National Park, NM.

I have so many potential prints from yesterday. Was a kid in a candy shop. Almost the whole day with a APO 50mm Summicron + red filter. This was the only one with a 100mm Macro-R (needed the narrow FOV).

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t00l1024

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White Sands National Park, NM

APO 50mm Summicron-M + Red filter (taken slightly out of focus)

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eawriter

eawriter

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A stormy day at Metairie Cemetery in New Orleans. 50mm Noctilux f/1.2.

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tjphoto

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Portland Oregon,   M10M 28mm summilux

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t00l1024

t00l1024

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Opting to post an image completely unedited, which illustrates how wonderful the M10M image sensor is.

M10M + APO 50mm Summicron-M + Red filter

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malfaris

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50mm Summilux

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wolan

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Ramesh

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Summer storm

Uluru, NT, Australia

M10M, 21mm SEM

 

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malfaris

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35mm Summilux

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Alan Mead

Alan Mead

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35mm Summilux, orange filter

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Olaf_ZG

Olaf_ZG

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Few weeks ago I bought the m10m to replace my original mm: buffer and high iso being main reason.

Yesterday I took this portrait. The guy just buried his brother.

 I could maybe have taken this shot on the original mm, though I am not sure.

Meet Braco, meaning brother, which is his name, though sad in this context.

50mm lux asph

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