Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

On 7/31/2019 at 7:19 PM, mujk said:

The tape solution after about 4 months. I put it there when changing to a safety strap for a trip and then left it there when changing back to the Leica strap. 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

And when you take the tape off to sell it it will have pristine square patches, sorry but you can't win.

A lot of what looks like wear in early usage is finger grease polishing the surface of the black chrome, isopropyl alcohol can clean it. 

Nikon triangular split rings are very good, but they are designed for cameras with stainless steel inserts in the lugs such as the Nikon F and and then full stainless lugs on later models. But using triangular rings on an older Leica body that has chrome plated brass lugs will destroy the lug fairly quickly, the angle of the bend in the ring digs into the edge of the lug around the hole instead of spreading the load. 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, 250swb said:

And when you take the tape off to sell it it will have pristine square patches, sorry but you can't win.

A lot of what looks like wear in early usage is finger grease polishing the surface of the black chrome, isopropyl alcohol can clean it. 

Nikon triangular split rings are very good, but they are designed for cameras with stainless steel inserts in the lugs such as the Nikon F and and then full stainless lugs on later models. But using triangular rings on an older Leica body that has chrome plated brass lugs will destroy the lug fairly quickly, the angle of the bend in the ring digs into the edge of the lug around the hole instead of spreading the load. 

True, if you keep it there for a long period of time. Still, I prefer to have these fairly small areas less polished than the rest of the top plate than the other way around.

Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, 250swb said:

And when you take the tape off to sell it it will have pristine square patches, sorry but you can't win.

A lot of what looks like wear in early usage is finger grease polishing the surface of the black chrome, isopropyl alcohol can clean it. 

Nikon triangular split rings are very good, but they are designed for cameras with stainless steel inserts in the lugs such as the Nikon F and and then full stainless lugs on later models. But using triangular rings on an older Leica body that has chrome plated brass lugs will destroy the lug fairly quickly, the angle of the bend in the ring digs into the edge of the lug around the hole instead of spreading the load. 

Thanks for the heads-up Steve. Using a loupe,  I examined the strap lugs of my M-P with the Nikon triangular rings.  As you say they are starting to wear around the edges.

I will be replacing the rings to circular split rings today.

All best...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I use PeakDesign quick releases on all of my cameras. This avoids wear on the camera body and allows me to quickly change straps. You can buy just the quick releases from B&H Photo and other online retailers.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Am 31.7.2019 um 12:51 schrieb james.liam:

My M6 dates from the mid 1990's and the black chrome becomes duller and less uniform.

That also happened to one of my M6, we should keep in mind that the top cover of the M6 is zinc die cast and not brass, so after some wear and tear the grey zinc shines through.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

1 hour ago, AndreasG said:

That also happened to one of my M6, we should keep in mind that the top cover of the M6 is zinc die cast and not brass, so after some wear and tear the grey zinc shines through.

I would be the nickel plating (applied before the chrome) that would be showing not the zinc, chrome would not be applied directly to zinc (or brass for that matter).

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, budjames said:

I use PeakDesign quick releases on all of my cameras. This avoids wear on the camera body and allows me to quickly change straps. You can buy just the quick releases from B&H Photo and other online retailers.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

I tried this and they connectors were just too short and the plastic rubbed in the camera... also this is just me, but the plastic part doesn’t really match the vibe of the m10... to me. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, ChicagoMatthew said:

I tried this and they connectors were just too short and the plastic rubbed in the camera... also this is just me, but the plastic part doesn’t really match the vibe of the m10... to me. 

I been using this set up for a few years now. I love the convenience of being able to change straps or wrist straps between my two M10s and Fuji XT3 bodies.

I often carry my camera in a Billingham Hadley Pro or Wontancraft Trooper medium bag. When I do I have Gordy large wrist straps attached to the one or two bodies that I take with me. If I just want to take one body and lens, usually the Summilux 35 on my M10, then I use a neck strap, a Rock & Roll SL strap (shown in the previously posted photos). I also have a PeakDesign Slide strap that I use occasionally. I also have a Up Strap mini neck strap which I like a lot.

There has been no evidence of the wear on my M10 bodies. The PeakDesign anchor fiber string can be slipped into the M10's strip eyelets. This eliminates the need to use the typical metal rings or triangles used with normal straps. 

On my Fuji XT3, I have to use their metal triangle and small leather flaps on the camera eyelets to which I attached the PeakDesign anchors.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Am 1.8.2019 um 19:04 schrieb adan:

It doesn't bother me (I like "industrial chic"),  but I'd guess the digital M black chrome is just not engineered for as long a life as on the M4-2/P/M6 cameras.

What is "worthwhile" for a camera with an expected life of 40 years is not worthwhile in a camera with an expected life of 10 years.

And that is about the "wear ratio" I see with my black M10 - after 2 years it looks about like an M6 did after 8 years.

Experienced quite the same with my M6 from 1988 and my M10-D from 2018 but I love the black chrome wear!

Here is a comparison of a pre-owned M4 from 1974 and my actual M10-D. I’m so glad Leica skipped these little plastic bumpers with the M10 series. 😊

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/4/2019 at 6:05 AM, budjames said:

I use PeakDesign quick releases on all of my cameras. This avoids wear on the camera body and allows me to quickly change straps. You can buy just the quick releases from B&H Photo and other online retailers.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Bud, how did you fit that waxed cord into those lug holes?? I use peak design leashes and for the life of me I could not fit it through the lugs on my M240. I had to use that despised oval split ring that came with the leash. What was your trick?

thanks, 

mike

Edited by MMercier
Spelling
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, MMercier said:

Bud, how did you fit that waxed cord into those lug holes?? I use peak design leashes and for the life of me I could not fit it through the lugs on my M240. I had to use that despised oval split ring that came with the leash. What was your trick?

thanks, 

mike

PD has updated their products. The newer revisions of the product uses significantly thinner cords, which makes it possible to fit them like Bud has shown.
I only wish the cord was a bit longer. When I try to use the PD ears on my M10-P,  the PD "ears" on the side of the ISO knob is too short for a perfect clearance from the camera body / ISO-knob and the attached PD clip.

Edited by indergaard
Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, MMercier said:

Bud, how did you fit that waxed cord into those lug holes?? I use peak design leashes and for the life of me I could not fit it through the lugs on my M240. I had to use that despised oval split ring that came with the leash. What was your trick?

thanks, 

mike

Hi Mike.

PeakDesign has had four generations of their anchors. A previous version used a thinner string, but these could fray after heavy use and could put equipment at risk. I never had any issues with the previous versions. They offered free replacements if you had the older versions with current generation 4 anchors. I took advantage of this and probably have a lifetime supply of the current anchors.

To get the waxed thread through the eyelets on my M10s, I used needle nose pliers to soften and flatten the end of the anchor. I then worked the anchor end through the eyelet. At first this was frustrating to accomplish, but was successful after a few minutes. Another technique is to use fishing monofilament to pull the anchor through the eyelet.

I don't have a M240, so I'm assuming the interior diameter of the eyelet is the same as the M10.

I was unable to do this in my Fuji XT3. On that camera, I used the Fuji-supplied metal triangles with the leather protectors to which I attached the PD anchors.

Here are photos of both cameras.

Good luck!

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...