earleygallery Posted February 28, 2019 Share #21 Posted February 28, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) I think I'd choose the R7. It was a mature design being evolved from the R4, whereas the R8 was a totally new design. It had some issues which were rectified in the R9. I know someone here trashed their R8 by using a tripod - some issue to how the tripod mount is fixed inside the camera and it damaged the mirror box/shutter assembly (one of the issues addressed with the R9). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 28, 2019 Posted February 28, 2019 Hi earleygallery, Take a look here Which R should I buy? . I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
masjah Posted February 28, 2019 Share #22 Posted February 28, 2019 2 hours ago, earleygallery said: I think I'd choose the R7. It was a mature design being evolved from the R4, whereas the R8 was a totally new design. It had some issues which were rectified in the R9. I know someone here trashed their R8 by using a tripod - some issue to how the tripod mount is fixed inside the camera and it damaged the mirror box/shutter assembly (one of the issues addressed with the R9). James, I think it was Andy (Barton). In fairness to the R8, I think Andy said that the fault was with a particular Manfrotto tripod screw, which was longer than was specified by the relevant international standard, to which Leica had adhered. I'm sure Andy will confirm, but I rather think that Manfrotto reimbursed him the repair cost. With the R9, I think that Leica took a belt and braces approach, and made the tripod mounting hole deeper. I have to say though that none of my Manfrotto plates has caused a problem with my R8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted February 28, 2019 Share #23 Posted February 28, 2019 With R6 and R7 on hands, it is clearly R7 is more comfortable to handle due to its larger size. It also has a more robust bottom plate. R6 has the speculate reputation of being more durable, due to its minimum electronics, but I've heard it is purely a wishful thinking. Many mechanical cameras i know of, such as Fuji 6x9, 6x17, are suffering badly of its mechanical shutter deterioration and are not repairable. The well designed and well menufactured electronic controlled cameras may actually last longer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted March 1, 2019 Share #24 Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) “... I’ve heard ...” Edited March 1, 2019 by otto.f Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamey Posted March 1, 2019 Share #25 Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) The R system was great, it's a pity you cannot repair them. At this time my R8 and the 2 R7's are working fine but the R9 meter is stuffed. Ken Edited March 1, 2019 by hamey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted March 1, 2019 Share #26 Posted March 1, 2019 R8 and R9 are true Leica design, have the best features and probably the most durable, but they are not serviceable anymore. The early Rs are still serviceable so even not as good as R8/R9, practically speaking, they are actually more durable for now. Among early Rs, R7 has the most complicated electronics, but fortunately also has the best corrections learned from earlier Rs. One of the weakest part of early Rs is the fragile bottom plate and the tripod attachment. R7 is the only one that fixed it by strengthen the bottom plate and made it thicker. R6 is known for its minimum electronics, that it can be used without battery as long as light metering is not required. However, it might surprise a lot of users when opened its top plate. It is actually very complicated and visually not simpler than R7. The highly integrated microprocessor and VLSIs might contribute to the simplicity compared to the discrete light meter only electronic board. The fragile light meter in Leica CL, M5, etc. indicates the discrete light meter is not necessary more robust than a high quality highly integrated VLSIs. However, you can trust R6 in the sense when its electronic is broken, it can still be used, even if it might be less robust than R7. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamSinger Posted March 4, 2019 Share #27 Posted March 4, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just to add a vote , I have em all; tucked up in my unwashed sock drawer to deter the burglars, the R9 is great but the Nikon F6 is greater, ok running for the bunker now........outer airlock door shut should be safe from the incoming, but seriously my two favorite Rs are the first one the Leicaflex, just find it a joy to use but for serious gotta get that shot travel then its R6 or R6.2. Small ,and reliable. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted March 6, 2019 Share #28 Posted March 6, 2019 It is only the R8 and 9 that are not repairable, other than simple mechanical issues not needing spare parts. Paepke in Germany will service and repair all older Leica reflex cameras and bought the spare parts inventory from Leica. I do wonder if I should have bought a Contax RX or RX-II instead of my recent purchase of an R9, as I do have the excellent Zeiss Contax 28-85 f3.3 Vario Sonnar and the RX's are even cheaper than the R9. They however, do have their foibles, which are the light seals turning into liquid rubber (curable) and fading LCD in the finder (not curable). I think with both the R9 and RX, having LCD panels in the finder, it is essential to keep the finder shutter closed, when not in use, to stop sunlight getting in and fading the LCD. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iduna Posted March 6, 2019 Share #29 Posted March 6, 2019 I recently bought an R3 and become more and more fascinated. My shop also offered an R4 but for me it did not make sense to invest in electronics since I will anyway only do manual exposure etc. The lightmeter works very well and one learns how to operate it. For me a 50 mm Summicron on 200 or 100 ASA film works extemely well. also I tried out different Elmarit lenses. As far as I can say after 3 films it is pure fun. Next is a 180 mm lens. The price for the camera was 100 € ! Just imagine ! I learned that the pure instruments is enough and it will teach you framing and selecting with thinking first and then taking your shot. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkCambridgeshire Posted March 6, 2019 Share #30 Posted March 6, 2019 Banci, Why not consider 'hedging your bets' and buy both the R7 and R8 … and thus have a back-up camera … or carry both with different film stock loaded in each? dunk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblitz Posted April 8, 2019 Share #31 Posted April 8, 2019 get the 6.2 and have fun ... it is small and reliable and even if the metering fails, well take a small handheld with you just in case .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.liam Posted April 25, 2019 Share #32 Posted April 25, 2019 On 4/7/2019 at 10:43 PM, sblitz said: get the 6.2 and have fun ... it is small and reliable and even if the metering fails, well take a small handheld with you just in case .... Just saw a 6.2 go up for sale at $900. Probably more than it cost new. As far as the M8/9, if you already have R glass, it’s no more of a gamble than the stupid crazy prices nowadays for Contax, Yashica (w/Zeiss optics) and Olympus P&S compacts. They will all eventually irreparably fail but at about $500 for a late-model mint R8, have your fun while it lasts. The VF is the bomb and sophisticated metering makes shooting reversal film less of a hit/miss proposition. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbealnz Posted April 25, 2019 Share #33 Posted April 25, 2019 Couldn't agree more james. I love the Contax stuff, AX and the N1 especially, but as you say, no lesser gamble than the R(whatever model). R8/9 especially nice. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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