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Happy New Year to everyone. 

I'm having some problems when shooting with the Sun in front of me. I'm using a M10 with 35mm f/2.4 summarit and original hood. In the image appears a perfectly straight line which seems to be the hood blocking the light? Or maybe a sensor error? Someone with this problem? I tested today without hood in a different situation and the problem is still there. I searched on the Internet but I couldn't find the answer. Also my English skills are low...

Thank you!

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I have this kind of "baffling no-flare" in contre-jour images from different digital Leica M and with some lenses with or without hood.

That may come from some sort of baffle in the M body: maybe the baffle just after the shutter mechanism.

In relation with the sun position and framing, this is irregularly and mostly when the sun is just outside of the frame.

I wanted to sort it out by turning the camera upside down, and the "no flare" is always at the top of the final image.

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Here a sample, this is the most obvious, in same series of photos, this one is the worst case,

and that day I had Leica M-D, no chimping, so no "another try"

Tele-Elmarit 90mm "thin" "king of flare", I took for Madame's portrait 😇

 

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to compare, a couple of minutes later

no trace of the "non-flare", so the setup is sensible to "angle of the sun"

some 90° to the left comparing to former image

same setup : M-D + TE 90mm

 

 

 

 

 

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vor 2 Stunden schrieb a.noctilux:

...this one is the worst case,

and that day I had Leica M-D, no chimping, so no another try”

 

 

I hate the worst case and I’m shocked, shocked to read what you’re writing. You mean this issue is so prevalent but occurs on and off, under certain conditions, sporadically? Man, that just stinks. I was going to get an M10-D but it doesn’t have an LCD screen either.

vor 2 Stunden schrieb a.noctilux:

...to compare,  a couple of minutes later

no trace of the “non-flare”

no trace of the "non-flare", so the setup is sensible to "angle of the sun"

 

 

 

 

Only “a couple of minutes later,” well, what do you know? Here is what I’m going to do. I’ll get two M10-Ds and always take identical pictures with each. It’s highly unlikely that this issue will occur in the same picture with both. Worse comes to worse, I’ll just turn the cameras upside down before releasing the shutter. Thanks for the advice. 

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I need to save this diagram ;) - the question comes up every 6 months or so.

No lens hood can be perfect, since a lens has dimension (diameter). A bright light (the sun) just outside the picture may light up the floor of the camera chamber, producing flare.

The sensor (or film, for that matter) is set back in a short (~3mm) tunnel in which the shutter operates. That tunnel will protect or shade a thin strip of the sensor from the flare, cutting off the flare in a straight line.

The lens projects the sun and scene "upside down" - therefore the flare and the dark line formed in the bottom of the camera appear in the top of the final picture.

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Edited by adan
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@adan thanks for the explanation. You always learn something new. So this basically could happen with every mirrorless with a short flange distance? I luckily haven’t experienced such a line yet.

Edited by SMAL
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The Leica lens shades are compromises which favor portability and quick use of the lenses. To make a shade that is very effective would require owners to adjust the shades for various circumstances and that is not the Leica Way.

 

 

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5 hours ago, SMAL said:

So this basically could happen with every mirrorless with a short flange distance?

In theory.

But I notice that, for example, the Sony A7 and Fuji XT-1 don't have a flat floor to their chambers - they have a curved "valley" or "smile" that follows the line of the lens contacts. That will make "spill light" reflect forward from around the sensor, rather than up and back from the floor. The Nikon Z7 (and presumably the Z6) don't have much of any floor at all - just a huge flat forward-facing "wall" around the sensor: https://goo.gl/images/Zw9DBZ

The Leica Ms are sort of stuck with the flat floor, as it's the space that holds the "classic" backwards-pointing meter sensor that's been used since the M8.

Plus, of course, the shorter the flange distance, the less area in the camera to possibly reflect light (it'll tend to fall inside the back of the lens barrel, rather than into the camera).

Same for, say, a 35 cron/lux ASPH - the lens elements extending deeper into the camera mouth will tend to "contain" any spill light - there may be lens flare, but it won't get cut off to form the line: https://goo.gl/images/iNx7TZ

The 35 Summarit has a rear element quite far from the sensor, in a funnel, (compare to Summicron in link above) thus spreading around more spill into the camera itself: https://goo.gl/images/bHYXNy

As it happens I was just yesterday shooting a friend's artwork. Which has an extremely shiny urethane coating over the wooden art. To avoid reflections, we had to shoot it in backlit shade, and I had a lot of flare trouble using a 35 Summarit - with a hood. Kept checking the lens for fingerprints and such, it was so bad. Answering this thread, I suddenly realized it was likely "floor reflections" but without the shadowing, since I was shooting verticals (and thus the spill from overhead sky was flaring off the end walls, not the floor of the camera). Fortunately it is easier to fix the flare "gradient" than touch out the mirror-clear reflections of the surroundings I would have had otherwise.

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Edited by adan
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