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For some odd reason, I decided not to bring my SL on my vacation to Budapest even though I knew full well I was going to take long exposures. I decided to take only my M10, using Lee Filters and a WATE. I took a couple of 4 minute exposures at ISO 100 and got horrible banding in the shadows as well as green dots in the highlights. Has anyone here experienced this? Does anyone here have any tips on long exposure settings (besides “use the SL”

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It sounds like you underexposed the picture given the description. You are also using 100 ISO which is really an emergency extra stop for using fast lenses on the M10, it has a narrower dynamic range than using 200 ISO which is the better option.

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It sounds like you underexposed the picture given the description. You are also using 100 ISO which is really an emergency extra stop for using fast lenses on the M10, it has a narrower dynamic range than using 200 ISO which is the better option.

Hi and thanks for your reply. I also have tried 200ISO and for the same results. Have used the same setting on my SL in the past with anywhere from 4 to 7 minute exposures but had no banding whatsoever. Any other thoughts? Will upload a sample as soon as am able.
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I agree with Stephen that the most likely cause for banding is extreme underexposure. Coming from earlier M cameras, I didn't know that the M10 even did such long exposures.

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Thanks all but still no answer. I have the most recent firmware and are exposed properly and just getting severe banding at ISO 100 - 200 with a 4 minute exposure. Does anyone out there have any suggestion as to a fix? I should have brought my SL but was trying to travel light, guess I’m paying for it in the end, trying to force a square peg...

Thank you in advance for any insight.

Nick

Edited by NDTPHOTOGRAPHY
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It sounds like you underexposed the picture given the description. You are also using 100 ISO which is really an emergency extra stop for using fast lenses on the M10, it has a narrower dynamic range than using 200 ISO which is the better option.

Thanks again but also beg to differ 100 is the M10 base ISO and perfectly workable. Shoot most of work with it and never get banding.
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In your place, I'd avoid this 4 min.

But maybe, I don't have customers for what I produce.

I think you’re right, hence my “square peg” reference. I love my M10 but it’s jst not suited for long exposure. Included is the sample file shot as ISO 200 4 minute exposure
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"Perfectly workable" = maybe NOt the best setting for every case

 

In your place, I'd try other ISO (200, 400, 320 ?), just to experiment if it's better or NOT.

 

I use M10 since early 2017, and the others ISO (200, 400, 320 ) are the "best rendering in my experience" in most case.

Edited by a.noctilux
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Sample file

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That is severe banding.

I've seen this kind of banding by M10 when I "tried" 25 K ISO or 50 K ISO.

 

If in other ISO that happens, I'd go talking with nearest Leica Store where you are.

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Thanks again but also beg to differ 100 is the M10 base ISO and perfectly workable. Shoot most of work with it and never get banding.

 

No, 100 ISO is not the base ISO for the best dynamic range, 100 is simply the lowest ISO. How are you metering the shot, the M10's meter isn't sensitive enough to meter for 4 minutes so you must be doing it by trial and error or another calculation. I still think the image looks underexposed. So the point is if you aren't using the best ISO for dynamic range (200) you may be seeing clipping, which in turn leads you to underexpose.

Edited by 250swb
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Sample file

That is not normal underexposure banding. If you are sure that you were not near a strong RF source, send the file to Leica for evaluation.

 

 

 

 

No, 100 ISO is not the base ISO for the best dynamic range, 100 is simply the lowest ISO.

@ ISO 100 pull

 

Even if ISO 100 is theoretically a pull setting, a chart of the usable photographic  dynamic range - I call it exposure latitude to avoid confusion with the technical DR as measured by for instance DXO- will show us that in actual photography the DR at ISO 100 is still higher than at ISO 200.

 

This can be attributed to two factors:

1. The actual base ISO of the sensor is somewhere between ISO 100 and 200, and the falloff from base-->100 is obviously less than the falloff from base -->200

2. The theoretical DR does not take the rolloff at the shoulders of the curve into account.

 

 

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http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

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No, 100 ISO is not the base ISO for the best dynamic range, 100 is simply the lowest ISO. How are you metering the shot, the M10's meter isn't sensitive enough to meter for 4 minutes so you must be doing it by trial and error or another calculation. I still think the image looks underexposed. So the point is if you aren't using the best ISO for dynamic range (200) you may be seeing clipping, which in turn leads you to underexpose.

Thanks for your reply, exposure is a bit subjective but I appreciate your perspective. This was shot at ISO 200, I think the base vs pull debate rages on... in any case thank you for your time and input.

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