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Hello all,

 

WOndering if anyone has seen this. I have a Leica 35mm Cron F2 Ser. # 3355069

 

My research puts it in 1985 for manufacturing date, so a Version 4.

 

I have a Leica M240 (2015) and have noticed a magenta color on the right and left of the frame...it is a tiny bit darker and is correctable in PS

but is still a pain. 

 

Has anyone seen this with this lens. The camera works fine with my 21, 28 and 90 Elmarits and 50 Cron.

 

Haven't noticed it on my M9.                    Shot at iso 250 500th F8. Lens has no scratches, fungus or delam. Using round aluminum Leica 12585 Hood.

Best,

Jason

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Edited by CropDusterMan
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So strange, I'm having the same issue with a different lens (7artisans 50mm on MP240)

 

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Hello all,

 

WOndering if anyone has seen this. I have a Leica 35mm Cron F2 Ser. # 3355069

 

My research puts it in 1985 for manufacturing date, so a Version 4.

 

I have a Leica M240 (2015) and have noticed a magenta color on the right and left of the frame...it is a tiny bit darker and is correctable in PS

but is still a pain. 

 

Has anyone seen this with this lens. The camera works fine with my 21, 28 and 90 Elmarits and 50 Cron.

 

Haven't noticed it on my M9.                    Shot at iso 250 500th F8. Lens has no scratches, fungus or delam. Using round aluminum Leica 12585 Hood.

Best,

Jason

 

Hello Jason,

 

Did you use filter ?

 

Never found such thing with my set-up from any 35mm and M240.

 

However, here effect is less than wider lenses.

 

Side note:

Strange as with my 35mm Summicron-M IV, if used with 12585 hood, some vigneting occured, not here.

This hood works well with 35 Cron version II and I (no vigneting).

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Is this lens coded? Guess the 6-bit code was introduced in 2006. So if the lens isn't coded afterwards it is not.
If it is not coded try to choose the correct lens manually in the menu.

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Thanks for the replies so far. No, NO Filter is used. Bare lens.

 

Also, lens is not 6-Bit coded. I do select the correct lens from the menu though so that I have basic metadata.

 

I do sometimes experience a little vignetting, but it is tiny and easily corrected in PS. If I shoot neg, I just pull the

hood off.

Edited by CropDusterMan
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Is this lens coded? Guess the 6-bit code was introduced in 2006. So if the lens isn't coded afterwards it is not.

If it is not coded try to choose the correct lens manually in the menu.

 

This shouldn't cause the effect I'm seeing.

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If you have Photoshop on hand you will see that there is no magenta cast in the skies. Just some blue oversaturation i would say but i would need the raw file to be sure.

 

Looks magenta to me. Also looks abnormal, hence...the reason I am posting here.

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Looks magenta to me. Also looks abnormal, hence...the reason I am posting here.

 

Sorry but there is no magenta in the pic you've posted, according to my old Photoshop PS3 at least. Did you keep the raw files of those photos?

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The 240 has an IR sensitivity of about 30%. Given the light conditions such effects are not unexpected, especially with a rather vintage lens design like the 7 Artisans or old Summicron 35.A 486 filter is worth trying.

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The 240 has an IR sensitivity of about 30%. Given the light conditions such effects are not unexpected, especially with a rather vintage lens design like the 7 Artisans or old Summicron 35.A 486 filter is worth trying.

Hallo Jaap, hoe gaat het met u? 

I have a 46mm IR. I'll throw it over the 35 and see if that helps. 

 

Jason

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Sorry but there is no magenta in the pic you've posted, according to my old Photoshop PS3 at least. Did you keep the raw files of those photos?

Yes, I have the raw file. Are you not seeing the color shift on the left and right of the frame I posted?

 

Version 3 of Photoshop...that's an oldie! 

 

I'm going to do some testing and see what the dealio is.

 

Thanks.

J

Edited by CropDusterMan
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I see the magenta edges in both sample shots.

 

Normally an uncorrected lens (< 50mm and not 6-bit coded or selected in menu) will show cyan/green edge stains, due to the light going slantwise through the cyan sensor cover glass/IR filter at the edges. So an opposite color stain (magenta red) says to me this is an overcorrection by the camera firmware (too much cyan/green removed).

 

I see the correct lens ID in the metadata for the 35 f/2 (Cropdusterman). The magenta looks like the poor corrections the M9 produced for my 21mm lens of the same age, for the first 15 months I had the M9, until Leica finally corrected it with a firmware upgrade. Do you have the most recent M240 firmware (2.0.3.0)? I know someone here in the past year was getting magenta edges with a 28 f/1.4.

 

I see that McG has ID'd his 7Artisans 50mm lens as a Summilux 50mm - I'm not sure that is a good idea. The amount of color stains is very dependent on the specific optical design of a lens, not just the focal length per se - and the 7Artisans lens is quite different from the Summilux design; unlike the Summilux, the 7Artisans 50mm f/1.1 has a deep protruding rear element.

 

Just for grins, I would suggest trying a lens ID that is one focal length longer than the actual focal length (i.e. for the 35, ID it as a 50mm Summicron, for the 50 7A, ID it as a 75mm Summarit or Summicron) - just to see what happens to the magenta stains.

Edited by adan
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Yes, I have the raw file. Are you not seeing the color shift on the left and right of the frame I posted?

Version 3 of Photoshop...that's an oldie!  [...]

 

My eyes see some magenta or red cast indeed but not CS3 and it's not the first time i see that. Yes CS3 is an oldie indeed, but it works fine for this other one ;) so i tend to trust it personally. Would you mind to put your raw file in a dropbox? I suspect i could get different results with different raw converters but i may be wrong.

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As you can see below, desaturating magenta or red doesn't change anything significant according to my old CS3. Subject to examination of your raw files, i would then believe that some blue oversaturation together with a bit of vignetting could be the culprit but i'm no techie at all so take what i say with a lump of salt B).

 
i-FSfj7fN.jpg
 
i-txj5Qqg.jpg
 
i-Z6ZKq9C.jpg
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A simple raw converter called Silkypix has a "Film Color A" color profile which could solve your problem w/o having to tweak colors manually. Here your pic with this profile and no vignetting correction:

 

 

i-cn5SRFM.jpg

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A simple raw converter called Silkypix has a "Film Color A" color profile which could solve your problem w/o having to tweak colors manually.

 

 

 

 

Fuji arranged an adaptation of Silkypix, created in a company named ISL in Japan, for its Fuji Raw File Converter distributed with Fuji X cameras. It is

quite good. Your post is an example of what it can do. Fair warning: the user interface is unusual, which frustrates many new users.

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