Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hidden in the scene modes, the panorama function is not too bad.

Drawbacks- the burst rate is fixed, so it takes some practice to juggle the angle of view and rotation speed to get a decent-sized panorama. The best I managed was 8.200 pixels wide. The system also cuts off quit a bit at the extremes, far more than shown on the LCD.

Advantages: good quality jpg, even exposure and ease of use.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

And plenty of detail - 100% crop:

 

  • Like 18
Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually I do use it occasionally on cameras that have it; it saves a lot of work in the computer.

Most of my cameras have functions that I never use, like Auto-ISO.

Still, I make a point of knowing it’s there ;).

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another attempt :)

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

When I went skiing last time, I found it too much effort switching modes and then being faced with less successful rate compared to the iPhone, which actually produces decent panorama quality. After seeing it somewhere on a feature list, I had to dive into the user manual to find the option, though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

JPG and doing is as a scene mode makes sense.  I can't imagine trying to stitch the Bayer image.  Does it fix exposure on the first shot?  I find I usually have to adjust exposure between shots to get a smooth, uniform sky tone, and even then the result is not constant when the sun is out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

JPG and doing is as a scene mode makes sense.  I can't imagine trying to stitch the Bayer image.  Does it fix exposure on the first shot?  I find I usually have to adjust exposure between shots to get a smooth, uniform sky tone, and even then the result is not constant when the sun is out.

I have used Lightroom's panorama function successfully to stitch raw images to create a new DNG. A straightforward process, though the original files clog up your catalogue unless you delete them afterwards. I use manual exposure and don't usually adjust it mid-sequence.

 

OTOH, what do you do with a big panorama shot? Viewing on screen doesn't show their full glory, and although printing is possible, framing is expensive and not many people have enough wall space.

 

The best use I have had for this is for taking virtual wide-angle images when I've only had a mid or long focal length lens with me. I shoot in portrait orientation and crop to landscape.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe I'm making it harder that it needs to be, but I leave the camera in AutoISO, portrait mode with some longer lens, and take lots of shots.  After I have done any sky corrections, I often find that corrected exposure varies, especially if I scan an angle like 180 degrees.

 

I view them in Preview, Actual size, full screen on a 23" monitor.  And once in a rare while, I get them printed, 1-2m wide.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...