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21 hours ago, vikasmg said:

After the rain...

With Macro-Elmarit-TL 60.  So much easier to do this than with an M10 (see M10 image thread), but a bit less fun.

 

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I like them, thanks for posting, I'm considering this lens as my next purchase.

Could you take a minute please to explain the AF and MF focusing procedure of the 60mm macro. I have read up on it, where I could but still cant get my head around it, seems like a 50/50 split....??????

TIA

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I use the 60 Macro with the TL2 - there is no split of the Af/M. Both are possible and working well. But espacially within 50 cm I prefer the manual mode, because of the better possibility to control the depth of sharpness.

 

Q

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CL 50mm Sum M

 

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Same - CL 50mm Sum, fun on the climbing frame.

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Heart of Palermo - 23mm Summicron TL

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Astilbe /əˈstɪlb/[1] is a genus of 18 species of rhizomatous flowering plants within the family Saxifragaceae, native to mountain ravines and woodlands in Asia and North America.[2] Some species are known by the common names false goat's beard and false spirea.

LEICA VARIO-ELMAR-TL   1:3.5-5.6  / 18-56 mm ASPH.

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Astilbe /əˈstɪlb/[1] is a genus of 18 species of rhizomatous flowering plants within the family Saxifragaceae, native to mountain ravines and woodlands in Asia and North America.[2] Some species are known by the common names false goat's beard and false spirea.

18-56   Up close and Personal.

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More from York Minster

With the venerable TL 11-23 at 11mm

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York Minster, in the crypt.

CV 50mm f1.2

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crossing a neighbor's driveway, 18-56

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all with the same kit

 

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18 hours ago, Dave in Wales said:

I like them, thanks for posting, I'm considering this lens as my next purchase.

Could you take a minute please to explain the AF and MF focusing procedure of the 60mm macro. I have read up on it, where I could but still cant get my head around it, seems like a 50/50 split....??????

TIA

I have to say that with a CL and the 60mm I don't use manual focus at all.  That's not to say you can't but just that I don't.  I find it's easy to use spot focus (it gives you a little crosshair target in the viewfinder) and target the point of focus with that.  I will sometimes take two or three shots usually with different apertures and occasionally with the crosshair target in a slightly different position and then just keep the images I like best.  Manual focus is certainly possible but I've only used it with a M lens mounted on the CL.

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12 hours ago, Boojay said:

Same - CL 50mm Sum, fun on the climbing frame.

 

 

Wonderful.  The shape of the climbing frame looks like it could roll!

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Framing the sea, Cefalù - 23mm Summicron TL

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9 hours ago, Dippy said:

More from York Minster

With the venerable TL 11-23 at 11mm

 

The detail in that stained glass window looks like it's something amazing.  Real life detail I mean, though the picture is lovely as well!

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On 7/9/2019 at 9:02 AM, Dave in Wales said:

I like them, thanks for posting, I'm considering this lens as my next purchase.

Could you take a minute please to explain the AF and MF focusing procedure of the 60mm macro. I have read up on it, where I could but still cant get my head around it, seems like a 50/50 split....??????

TIA

I'm not sure quite what you mean, but here goes anyway.

The 60 has a focus range from close up macro (at least 1:1) to infinity. In AF there is an option to set the range within which AF operates to either the macro end or the distant end. Once in one of these ranges, AF only works there, to stop it hunting for focus across an enormous range. To get it into the AF range that you wish to work in requires you to manually focus into that range with the focusing ring (this still works, even if AF is set). The manual focusing ring is not direct linear action but varies depending on how fast you turn it: turn it fast and you can swing from one end of the full range fairly quickly; turn it slowly and it takes for ever (but allows fine focusing). I'm not sure where the division is between the two AF focusing ranges - perhaps a couple of metres? Once you get used to it, this mode of operation is straightforward. You can also switch it off, but at the risk of a lot of AF hunting.

I usually use MF when taking macro shots - not so much to fine tune focus, but to get a fixed focus that doesn't change as I press the shutter, as often happens when using spot focus on a complex subject (e.g. flower parts) - the depth of field is very thin and can easily slip from where you want it.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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5 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I'm not sure quite what you mean, but here goes anyway.

The 60 has a focus range from close up macro (at least 1:1) to infinity. In AF there is an option to set the range within which AF operates to either the macro end or the distant end. Once in one of these ranges, AF only works there, to stop it hunting for focus across an enormous range. To get it into the AF range that you wish to work in requires you to manually focus into that range with the focusing ring (this still works, even if AF is set). The manual focusing ring is not direct linear action but varies depending on how fast you turn it: turn it slowly and you can swing from one end of the full range fairly quickly; turn it slowly and it takes for ever (but allows fine focusing). I'm not sure where the division is between the two AF focusing ranges - perhaps a couple of metres? Once you get used to it, this mode of operation is straightforward. You can also switch it off, but at the risk of a lot of AF hunting.

I usually use MF when taking macro shots - not so much to fine tune focus, but to get a fixed focus that doesn't change as I press the shutter, as often happens when using spot focus on a complex subject (e.g. flower parts) - the depth of field is very thin and can easily slip from where you want it.

Thanks for that.

 

Edited by Dave in Wales
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