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BEOON advice please - functional checks prior to purchase

Steve Ricoh

By Steve Ricoh
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Guest Nowhereman

Guest Nowhereman

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Steve - I wrote earlier that the focussing point for the Focotar-2 50mm lens "is well below the 1:1 mark on the column, so it's not at all at the limit — the column can be moved up or down substantially more than 4mm". Just now, I looked how much the column could be brought down from the focusing point: about 10-11mm (hard to measure exactly with a ruler). Say, it's 10 mm: that means it should be within the 8 mm you need for your 52 mm EL-Nikkor lens, unless the actual focal length of my Focotar-2 50 mm lens is less than 47.5 mm.

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Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

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tsleica
tsleica

For those interested in a less expensive solution to the BEOON.. Sometimes the Valoy-2 can be had for less than $50- bux.. And the copy stand attachment less than that..although harder to find.. Yo

a.noctilux
a.noctilux

Hidden in M8 "copies", english manual of BEOON is visible and dowloaded (for how long, I don't know):   https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/230886-m8-and-beoon/page-2     Extract from the page

ramarren
ramarren

The iPad screen is what's giving you the crosshatch pattern. It's not designed to be an illuminant source. A flat-panel light box with LED or fluorescent light source is ideal for use with the BEOON. 

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Steve Ricoh

Steve Ricoh

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Mitch, with my Nikkor 50 it definitely bottoms prior to gaining focus, and at minimum column height I need to physically elevate the negative by 10mm (approx). Only two or three explanations, as you said the FL of the Focotar-2 being less than 50, the Nikkor being greater than the published 52mm, or, and more unlikely, not all BEOON's are equal.

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I had second thoughts and had a look at the matter again.

 

The BEOON rings A, B, C and D have a thickness of 8.4, 8.6, 17.14 and 24.4 34.4 mm, respectively. The base itself (the camera mount) is 8.8 mm. Anyone who can give more accurate measures: please give them.

 

For a reproduction at a 1:1 scale you need an extension of the lens which is exactly the same as the focal length. BEOON base plus rings A+D add up to 51.6mm. This is the focal length the BEOON has been constructed for (provided my measurements of the rings are accurate). 

 

My 1:2.8 50m Elmar has exactly this focal length and it works wonderfully with the BEOON.

 

My 1:2.5 50mm Summarit has a focal length of 50.1mm. The combination of rings A+D is too long for this focal length. I can find no combination of rings which come close enough to 50.1mm. A+C+D, for instance, is about 7mm too short. 

 

These considerations apply to M mount lenses only. Enlarger lenses might use other distances between the mount and the focal plane, so you have to find the proper extension for any given lens of that type.

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Tmx

Tmx

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I had second thoughts and had a look at the matter again.

 

The BEOON rings A, B, C and D have a thickness of 8.4, 8.6, 17.14 and 24.4 mm, respectively. The base itself (the camera mount) is 8.8 mm. Anyone who can give more accurate measures: please give them.

 

For a reproduction at a 1:1 scale you need an extension of the lens which is exactly the same as the focal length. BEOON base plus rings A+D add up to 51.6mm. This is the focal length the BEOON has been constructed for (provided my measurements of the rings are accurate).

 

My 1:2.8 50m Elmar has exactly this focal length and it works wonderfully with the BEOON.

 

My 1:2.5 50mm Summarit has a focal length of 50.1mm. The combination of rings A+D is too long for this focal length. I can find no combination of rings which come close enough to 50.1mm. A+C+D, for instance, is about 7mm too short.

 

These considerations apply to M mount lenses only. Enlarger lenses might use other distances between the mount and the focal plane, so you have to find the proper extension for any given lens of that type.

At the moment I am experimenting a lot with different lenses searching for the best combination. Very useful is the enclosed helicoid adapter which allows to set the distance from 35 to 90mm. In combination with the 39 to 42mm ring adapter on the lens side it's usable with every 39mm threaded lens. The adapter is very well made out of anodized aluminum and not expensive.

 

f7f967d9d365a9db4423ca3b24f40618.jpg

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Steve Ricoh

Steve Ricoh

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I had second thoughts and had a look at the matter again.

 

The BEOON rings A, B, C and D have a thickness of 8.4, 8.6, 17.14 and 24.4 mm, respectively. The base itself (the camera mount) is 8.8 mm. Anyone who can give more accurate measures: please give them.

 

For a reproduction at a 1:1 scale you need an extension of the lens which is exactly the same as the focal length. BEOON base plus rings A+D add up to 51.6mm. This is the focal length the BEOON has been constructed for (provided my measurements of the rings are accurate). 

 

My 1:2.8 50m Elmar has exactly this focal length and it works wonderfully with the BEOON.

 

My 1:2.5 50mm Summarit has a focal length of 50.1mm. The combination of rings A+D is too long for this focal length. I can find no combination of rings which come close enough to 50.1mm. A+C+D, for instance, is about 7mm too short. 

 

These considerations apply to M mount lenses only. Enlarger lenses might use other distances between the mount and the focal plane, so you have to find the proper extension for any given lens of that type.

My crude measurements: A = 8.5, B = 8.5, C = 17 and D = 34.5. I think there's a typo in your post regarding D.
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Guest Nowhereman

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...For a reproduction at a 1:1 scale you need an extension of the lens which is exactly the same as the focal length. BEOON base plus rings A+D add up to 51.6mm..

I just unscrewed the front element of my DR Summicron, which, on the inside of the front element, like all DR Summicrons, has a hand written engraving showing the exact focal length to be 51.9 mm. As stated earlier, this lens focusses exactly with the 1:1 mask. (I think I read somewhere that all DR Summcirons have the exact focal length of 51.9 mm."

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Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

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Steve Ricoh

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At the moment I am experimenting a lot with different lenses searching for the best combination. Very useful is the enclosed helicoid adapter which allows to set the distance from 35 to 90mm. In combination with the 39 to 42mm ring adapter on the lens side it's usable with every 39mm threaded lens. The adapter is very well made out of anodized aluminum and not expensive.[img=https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170910/f7f967d9d365a9db4423ca3b24f40618.jpg

Interesting!

With my specific problem lens, the Nikkor 50 f/2.8, there's mis-focus with B+C+D. Using pop's measurements (I've amended D to 34.4) this gives a stack length of 60.14 By experimentation I find the stack to be 9 to 10mm too long, so this Kecay adapter might do the trick. The 42 to 39 will add dimensionally (x2) but assuming 10mm overall, the combination could give a negative headroom of -5mm which could be plenty for the BEOON height adjustment.

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Using an M240 and an enlarger lens, how do I activate, if at all, focus peaking or magnification ?

 

Got me stumped at present.

 

Thxs

You use the button on the front of the camera, to the right of the lens, taking care not to press the lens release button instead.

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a.noctilux

a.noctilux

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Using an M240 and an enlarger lens, how do I activate, if at all, focus peaking or magnification ?

 

Got me stumped at present.

 

Thxs

 

M240 push the front button and use the rear wheel to adjust the magnification.

 

On my M240, peeking is not very present but mag. focus is fine.

 

M10 is a bit better for that ;) and the focus mag/and Spot measurement can be away from center.

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Thanks Reeray. Are there any alignment problems to be concerned about? I think I read somewhere (not sure where though) about play either in the post-to-base, or at the top end, resulting in erratic performance.

I've just found out that there can be alignment problems. On mine the camera appears to be offset w/respect to the 1:1 mask, or perhaps the camera is not parallel to the unit's base. I have about 2mm of the mask on top of the image and the bottom 2mm of the negative or slide are missing. I have not yet found out how to copy all of a slide or a negative using the 1:1 mask. Adjusting the rotation of the camera would be easy, but this is not the problem.

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Steve Ricoh

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I've just found out that there can be alignment problems. On mine the camera appears to be offset w/respect to the 1:1 mask, or perhaps the camera is not parallel to the unit's base. I have about 2mm of the mask on top of the image and the bottom 2mm of the negative or slide are missing. I have not yet found out how to copy all of a slide or a negative using the 1:1 mask. Adjusting the rotation of the camera would be easy, but this is not the problem.

That's wierd, have you checked that the top flange of the BEOON is parallel to the baseplate, if it's not you would see a parallelogram effect. As you say rotational adjustment is easy once you've figured out the function of the three adjustment screws.

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Reeray

Reeray

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I've just found out that there can be alignment problems. On mine the camera appears to be offset w/respect to the 1:1 mask, or perhaps the camera is not parallel to the unit's base. I have about 2mm of the mask on top of the image and the bottom 2mm of the negative or slide are missing. I have not yet found out how to copy all of a slide or a negative using the 1:1 mask. Adjusting the rotation of the camera would be easy, but this is not the problem.

Ironic you should find that. I've habitually used APS-C and can get a true 1:1. No problems here and everything lines up perfectly. Out of curiosity I mounted my M240 and the live view confirmed 1:1 BUT, when downloading and opening up, I have a similar mask visible at the bottom of the image. I dismissed this as user error, and only made the one scan. This has prompted me to investigate further.

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Ironic you should find that. I've habitually used APS-C and can get a true 1:1. No problems here and everything lines up perfectly. Out of curiosity I mounted my M240 and the live view confirmed 1:1 BUT, when downloading and opening up, I have a similar mask visible at the bottom of the image. I dismissed this as user error, and only made the one scan. This has prompted me to investigate further.

I have two BEOONs, and both are a bit off, by different distances. I am considering shimming one. In the meantime, I reduce the scale by a small amount and shoot my slides so that a bit of the frame is included on all sides. 

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Steve Ricoh

Steve Ricoh

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At the moment I am experimenting a lot with different lenses searching for the best combination. Very useful is the enclosed helicoid adapter which allows to set the distance from 35 to 90mm. In combination with the 39 to 42mm ring adapter on the lens side it's usable with every 39mm threaded lens. The adapter is very well made out of anodized aluminum and not expensive.f7f967d9d365a9db4423ca3b24f40618.jpg

Can you please provide the Amazon link, I prefer to purchase from Amazon and not from eBay.

Many thanks.

Steve

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