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BEOON advice please - functional checks prior to purchase


Steve Ricoh

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The setup I cobbled together for digitizing 6x6 negatives with my BEOON uses the same Fuji X-T20 camera I use for 35mm, a 40mm f/4 EL-Nikkor enlarging lens with just the BEOON extension tube C, and a 6x6 negative carrier from an Omega D series enlarger. The negative carrier sits directly on the light box surface under the base of the BEOON. [If you do this be sure the pins on the carrier are pointing up so they don't scratch the light box surface.]

One thing to keep in mind is that photographing a square negative with an APSC (or FF) camera reduces the pixel count of the scanned image by a third. My 35mm scans are 4,000px by 6,000px = 24,000px. My 6x6 scans are 4,000px by 4,000px = 16,000px. And a 6x6 negative has three and a half times the area of a 35mm negative. Not the direction you want to go take advantage of the larger 6x6 negative. 

Once I proved to myself that the 6x6 BEOON setup works I put it aside and went back to taking six shots of a 6x6 negative with my standard 35mm setup and stitching the images together. 

Edited by Doug A
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8 hours ago, Steve Ricoh said:

A Beoon ? I thought you had one in a nice wooden box, or did you sell it.

Or do you mean the technique @ramarrendiscusses above in his very useful post.

Yep, another BEOON Steve. Last one, in the wooden box, I got greedy, saw the silly money being tossed about for them, sold it, typical capitalist Kiwi. Found this one, all boxed and with everything intact, couldn't not buy it. Silly as it sounds, I still have the wooden box too, the previous buyer didn't want it. Win/Win.

Godfrey's post is about how I did it anyway. I used last time an Apo Rodagon 50mm enlarging lens, and will try that again. Also will try the 60/2.8 R macro. And will try the T, and also the SL.

Since the last time I have acquired a couple of those Lomography Digitizer things, one in 35mm and one in 120 format, these should get me the flatness needed, but we'll see. A great way to while away a wet day. I'll post once I've done this.

Gary

 

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I'm using a Fuji XT10 camera with a Focotar 50mm lens, on the Beoon I use the B & C tubes and a Kaiser Slimline light pad.

The Beseler Nagatrans sits right on top of the light pad, I use the light pads' box to raise the Nagatrans so as to clear the

advance wheel for the negative. I don't use the Beoon 1:1 mask, the Nagatrans cutout window is for me sufficient enough.

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9 hours ago, kikohawaii said:

I don't use the Beoon 1:1 mask, the Nagatrans cutout window is for me sufficient enough.

I think it is a good idea not to rely only on the mask of the BEOON. I found  out that the M10 is too heavy for the BEOON, so it bends slightly forward and the fixed mask won‘t be aligned. With a flexible mask one can compensate this.

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22 hours ago, UliWer said:

I think it is a good idea not to rely only on the mask of the BEOON. I found  out that the M10 is too heavy for the BEOON, so it bends slightly forward and the fixed mask won‘t be aligned. With a flexible mask one can compensate this.

That’s strange, no wobble using my M240 and I would have thought the weight would be similar to the M10. I always tighten the base / column locking nut with the pin fully engaged. Sturdy as a rock!

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I had not suffered any wobble on the BEOON using either M240 or SL601 both of which are heavier than my M10-R. Check to see if there is any damage to the sleeve which fits inside the recess on the base and that the collar has not been cross threaded at some point. 

Wilson

 

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