BEOON advice please - functional checks prior to purchase

[ramarren]

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So it seems you focus first to set up with the Beoon lens? Maybe I am missing something but I don't see how the Beoon magnifier adjusts other than by moving the 'arm' up or down?

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The BEOON magnifier is set for focusing with a rangefinder camera. The image of the focusing screen should be sharp when fitted. Mine wasn't at first ... I realized after a little prodding that the ocular lens and its retainer had come adrift at some point and the lens fitted upside down. I took the ring out, turned the lens over, and cemented them back into place. The focusing screen was then in perfect focus. 

 

But I most usually do my captures with the SL body. At which point the BEOON magnifier is redundant ... I do all the focus evaluation with the SL and its EVF, moving the lens focusing ring (assuming one of my macro lenses) and the camera height until I get the framing and focus set up correctly. Then I tape the BEOON into place and lock all the focusing controls with a piece of tape as well. 

[Avatar]

Hi Guys,

 

Got the Rodagon 50mm enlarging lens today with a couple of attachments.

 

I edited this post as I see to use this lense, I just need to attach tubes C and D for 1:1.

 

I'll post samples when I get it going.

 

 

Edited September 6, 2017 by Avatar

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[Reeray]

The A ring is an m mount>m39 adapter for attaching an M mount lens. You don't need it with a m39 lens as is the Rodagon.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Reeray

[Avatar]

The A ring is an m mount>m39 adapter for attaching an M mount lens. You don't need it with a m39 lens as is the Rodagon.

 

Thanks Beeray, i edited my post as I figured out I needed C&D to get it to work.

 

Results soon!

 

thank you as always for the post!

[Guest Nowhereman]

Got the Rodagon 50mm enlarging lens today with a couple of attachments.

 

I know for 1:1 with the Beoon, I'm supposed to use Tubes A & D. I'm playing with ways to get this all to work and haven't yet figured it out.

 

Any feedback or experience would be greatly appreciated!

 

So far I can fit Tube D and the Rodagon...having trouble attaching A...I think I need an adaptor of some sort.

 

No adaptor needed: enlarging lenses have an M39 thread. For the Focotar 2, a 50mm lens, you need to use the B + C + D tubes, as stated in post #13 above, if you're using a full frame camera. I think that would be the same setup for the Rodagon 50mm lens.

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Edited September 6, 2017 by Nowhereman

[Avatar]

Thank you Nowhereman, as usual.

 

Well, I got everything working and first thing I thought of was to mask off to block the light from the 6x9 panel as there was some flaring, even with the 1:1 mask.

 

I suppose now I can finally focus.

 

I did a couple of casual tests and while the results are good, still to my eye the scanner image is better. 

 

The scanner is 16 bit and the camera is 12 bit (M246). I am not very technically oriented to even guess why I am liking the scanned images better but as much as I rather not, even though I might be able to tweak a bit, I doubt I can achieve the same quality.

 

It is important to note that the scanned images (Epson 850) are also not perfectly tweaked as far as height adjustment and focus that comes with making fine adjustments. A friend is working on making a new holder in a machine shop and we are devising a way to make adjustments on that as well.

 

I have a Schneider Componon S 2.8 that will be here soon and I'll test that as well.

 

My hunch is that the quality difference is not completely in the lens but there is (to me of course), a feeling that with the Beoon, (compared to a scan), that I am looking at a picture of a picture. The scanner does something similar yet differently I suppose as well.

 

With adjustments in LR or PS, I know I can get a usable good file to work with from the Beoon.

 

These are my honest findings so far. I know some results I am seeing tell a different story.

 

I suppose i can try some medium format film to make the comparison again and that's what I'll do tomorrow.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Avatar

[Avatar]

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One is scanned and the other Beoon.

 

The light in the eye, I cannot get with the Beoon. The focus still is not crisp and I'll try some tweaks tomorrow. Thank you Nowhereman for the suggestion to add the B tube. 

 

Does anyone know what the switch on the slide of the the Rodagon does??

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[Reeray]

^ clickless aperture setting

[Tmx]

I don't believe that you can only achieve such results as the second picture. Even the combination of macro lens or 35mm lens + extension tube provides better and especially sharper image than your example. In my opinion the negative is still not in focus

 

Best regards

Jakob

Edited September 6, 2017 by Tmx

[Tmx]

An example of 6x9 negative "scanned" with Fuji X-T1 and XF 35mm 1.4 + 10mm extension tube using tripod (I don't own beoon). It's still not perfect- I am still waiting for some additional parts for my Rodagon lens - but much better than my V600 scanns

[Avatar]

Well, I am still experimenting and put the Summarit back on, flipped the mask over and the result on the face is much better than the example I posted a little while ago.

 

I agree the negative is not as focused as it should be.

 

I'll play some more and post what i get.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Avatar

[Avatar]

^ clickless aperture setting

 

what does this mean? : / )

[Avatar]

what does this mean? : / )

 

Got it! 

 

Clearly I did not have the ideal F stop set. Played around and results are much better!

Edited September 6, 2017 by Avatar

[Steve Ricoh]

Got it! 

 

Clearly I did not have the ideal F stop set. Played around and results are much better!

For the result you were unhappy with what f stop were you using, and what value did you then set to improve the result?

If you get a chance, I'd like to see the improved version for comparison.

Thanks.

[pop]

One is scanned and the other Beoon.

 

The light in the eye, I cannot get with the Beoon. The focus still is not crisp and I'll try some tweaks tomorrow. Thank you Nowhereman for the suggestion to add the B tube. 

 

Does anyone know what the switch on the slide of the the Rodagon does??

The picture on the right hand side is badly misfocused. Focusing the camera on a BEOON should not be as difficult as that.

 

A bit of math: you are trying to take photographs at a scale of 1:1. Optical laws are such that for this special case the distance from the object to the optical plane of the lens must be exactly twice the focal length. The distance from the optical plane of the lens to the image plane (the sensor) must be exactly the same. Hence, the total distance from the object to the sensor must be 4 times the focal length. 

 

The conclusion would be that for every mm difference in focal length of different lenses, you should lower or raise the camera on the BEOON a distance of 4mm. This will be difficult if the BEOON already is at its lowest setting.

 

What to do:

 

Place a matchbox (one with a printed picture on it) under the BEOON; light it brightly with your desk lamp. Set up your camera on the BEOON for a shot at the desired scale of 1:1 and open the aperture wide. Activate the focus aid and set it to a magnification of - say - 5 times. By lowering or raising either the camera or the matchbox you will see right away when focus has been achieved. The raster of the printed picture on the matchbox will become prominent when correctly focused.

[Guest Nowhereman]

Avatar - By my own experience, the results should be better than those of an Epson flatbed to a degree that can be easily seen.

 

This data sheet states that the Rodagon 50 mm f/2.8 reaches "the recommended working aperture" by stopping down by two shops, to f/5.6". On the other hand, I saw another statement that the best performance of this lens is at f/11. You can do a web search and see what is the consensus optimum aperture for this lens.

 

Then you should do a focus test at f/5.6, f/8 and f/11 and see what is best on your lens. Failing a negative with a test chart, pick a negative on which you can judge corner performance easily — using a slide is good because you can judge by comparing the results to the actual slide on the light table.

 

Finally you need to figure out if you're using correctly the enlarged view and focus peaking on your camera while turning the milled adjustment ring on the BEOON column, as stated in the manual. 

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Edited September 6, 2017 by Nowhereman

[Guest Nowhereman]

...The conclusion would be that for every mm difference in focal length of different lenses, you should lower or raise the camera on the BEOON a distance of 4mm. This will be difficult if the BEOON already is at its lowest setting....What to do:...Place a matchbox (one with a printed picture on it) under the BEOON; light it brightly with your desk lamp...

 

This should be unnecessary on the BEOON with the Rodagon 50mm, as it's a standard enlarger lens that several other people are using easily on the BEOON with the B + C + D tubes. Here's, a post with sharp pictures using this configuration on the BEOON with the APO Rodagon 50, a lens similar to Avatar's.

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Edited September 6, 2017 by Nowhereman

[Avatar]

THanks for the helpful posts guys. As Nowhereman says with Tubes B, C and D, the fine focusing is hardly an issue. It simply was set at 2.8. I did one quick last check very late and immediately saw an improvement. The test that showed improvement was at 5.6. I'll do as suggested and try F11, etc.

 

I had it as good in focus as it can be, the only issue was the aperture setting, Focusing is easy and as Nowhereman had suggested, you can simply focus on the edge of the film on a number or something which is easier than the image itself. 

 

I'll be doing some more later and will also check medium format.

 

Definitely over the hump and I expect decent results. SHould be interesting to compare the other lens that is en route and should be here in a couple of days!

 

Thanks again for the support.

Edited September 6, 2017 by Avatar

[Steve Ricoh]

Ok, it's my turn to have trouble focussing the camera on the BEOON.

 

Set up as follows:

M240 in live view

Using B+C+D extension tubes

El-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 stopped down up to f11

Negative placed under the 1:1 mask on light pad

 

The BEOON runs out of focusing adjustment, ie the BEOON focus adjustment can not get close enough.

 

Tried with tubes C+D only, can focus ok but the negative does not fill the frame.

 

NB The El-Nikkor data sheet quote the actual focal length at 52mm - could this be the problem?

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[Guest Nowhereman]

Don't think that 52cm is the problem, as my DR Summicron is 51.5mm and had no problem. Your lens should work with the B+C+D tubes, considering that there should be no difference with my Focotar 2.

 

Are you trying to focus at f/11 with Live View? Try focusing at f/5.6 and digitalizing at 5.6, 8 and 11. I suspect that f/5.6 should be the best.