gwpics Posted November 12, 2016 Share #21 Posted November 12, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) You know what im struggling with at the moment? Im babying this film around. Im hesitant to shoot. With the digital camera, I would go out and shoot first, ask questions later. With film, I have slowed down. I feel irritable at times when I dont know what to shoot. Impatience of a beginner I guess. It definitely is fun though. Im on shot 21. Gerry, my wife did exactly the same! She also told me id have to sell it if i didnt use it I think there is the impression that the people we consider as great photographers are/were shooting every minute of every day. I once read a survey of large commercial studios to find how much time they spend during the working week actually shooting and it averaged out at about 25% - 30%. The rest of the time was spent on everything that goes with it, the administration, the filing, the going to the lab etc.etc. Sometimes I will go out and find nothing to shoot, and other times it is like a goldmine out there. Think of street shooting like fishing, somedays you sit there all day and catch nothing, and other days you bring home a salmon. It just has to be right. Cartier-Bresson said that you capture the 'decisive moment' when the eye, the mind and the heart come together. Gerry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 12, 2016 Posted November 12, 2016 Hi gwpics, Take a look here New to film, got an M3. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
sanadsaad Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share #22 Posted November 13, 2016 In my excitement to take the first shot, I did leave the cap on! Luckily realised it soon after and did not keep shooting. I've been doing a bit of reading regarding black and white film developing and printing. I won't be rushing to buy an enlarger just yet but the developing bit looks quite simple and doable either near the kitchen or washroom sink. Is it really that simple or are there intricacies involved? The trouble is, I live in a small apartment and might not be able to establish a makeshift darkroom. Sounds fascinating and a lot of fun though! And cost of developing would go down considerably if I do it myself. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwpics Posted November 13, 2016 Share #23 Posted November 13, 2016 In my excitement to take the first shot, I did leave the cap on! Luckily realised it soon after and did not keep shooting. I've been doing a bit of reading regarding black and white film developing and printing. I won't be rushing to buy an enlarger just yet but the developing bit looks quite simple and doable either near the kitchen or washroom sink. Is it really that simple or are there intricacies involved? The trouble is, I live in a small apartment and might not be able to establish a makeshift darkroom. Sounds fascinating and a lot of fun though! And cost of developing would go down considerably if I do it myself. A couple of things to point out. In theory developing is simple. I don't know where you are in the UK, but I am in Southampton where we have pretty hard water from the chalk and I need to filter the water or I get chalk residue like a fine grit on the film. Also, the film need to be dried in a dust-free environment. You get dust stuck to the emulsion and it is a devil to remove, if ever. Gerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 13, 2016 Share #24 Posted November 13, 2016 . Is it really that simple or are there intricacies involved? The trouble is, I live in a small apartment and might not be able to establish a makeshift darkroom. It is simple and there are workarounds for every situation, and film processing is perfectly possible at the kitchen sink. True there are mistakes to make, every photographer will scream or scratch their head in bemusement sooner or later, but if you don't try you don't learn. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted November 13, 2016 Share #25 Posted November 13, 2016 Yep. It is really simple. Especially if you know what each process does. For example, the developer turns the exposed chemicals into an image, the stop bath stops that reaction, and the fixer makes the film no longer sensitive to light so you can look at your image. Since it is a chemical reaction, temperature, concentration and time will be the variables you have to work with. Luckily the manufacturer gives you a VERY good starting point! If you can make breakfast and coffee, then you already have the skills you need to develop film. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted November 13, 2016 Share #26 Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) And do you don't feel so bad, I was using an M6 which has lights in the VF to help with exposure, they flash when it's too dark to get a reading, like when the lens cap is on. I brought the camera to my eye with my initial exposure guess already dialled in. The lights flashed. I just assumed the battery was dying or it was broken and stuck with my best guess and shot away. My 4 year old at the time asked me how I could take photos with the lens cap on about 10 shots in I no longer use batteries or lens caps. Edited November 13, 2016 by michaelwj 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwpics Posted November 13, 2016 Share #27 Posted November 13, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) And do you don't feel so bad, I was using an M6 which has lights in the VF to help with exposure, they flash when it's too dark to get a reading, like when the lens cap is on. I brought the camera to my eye with my initial exposure guess already dialled in. The lights flashed. I just assumed the battery was dying or it was broken and stuck with my best guess and shot away. My 4 year old at the time asked me how I could take photos with the lens cap on about 10 shots in I no longer use batteries or lens caps. We have all done it, the same as if you develop film sometime or other you will put the fix in first. You only do that once (usually!) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kivis Posted November 13, 2016 Share #28 Posted November 13, 2016 Also, using a C41 B&W film like Kodak BW400CN would allow you to switch iso from 200 to 800 between shots on the same film! Is this true on any C-41 film? Any special instructions to the developer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwpics Posted November 13, 2016 Share #29 Posted November 13, 2016 Is this true on any C-41 film? Any special instructions to the developer? C41 film is best shot at the manufacturers stated iso in my experience, and it is best processed by a commercial processor such as any High Street lab with good standards. I would not be happy stretching it, and would test before you do. BTW, is the Kodak film still being made? I thought they had stopped some time ago. Certainly the Fuji alternative is very good (Fuji Neopan 400CN). Gerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted November 13, 2016 Share #30 Posted November 13, 2016 200 and 800 are just 1 stop under and over exposed from 400, so it's not a big deal really. You'll get a perfectly fine printable or scannable negative, but it will not be optimal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted November 13, 2016 Share #31 Posted November 13, 2016 Developing starts out simple, sort of like the wonder of growing up. But as you progress, the variables begin to enter the picture, along with the desire to see how they affect the end result....it has been totally fascinating to me since I began in the 1950s, and I'm still experimenting. But when you begin, go with a tried and true formulation...you can branch out later on. I've never had the pleasure of a dedicated darkroom since high school, everything since has been makeshift, so don't get onto the "I need a dedicated darkroom" at this juncture. Just enjoy doing stuff as it comes along. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanadsaad Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share #32 Posted November 13, 2016 Ok so after reading your encouraging and helpful comments, and watching a few YouTube videos of b&w film development, I'm convinced I can do this. Here's what I've come up with as a basic kit: Changing bag Spirals and tank (Paterson or Jobo?) Developer Stop Fixer Graduated cylinder Syringe Pegs Anything I'm missing? Also started reading Ansel Adams The camera. What a fascinating read. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelwj Posted November 13, 2016 Share #33 Posted November 13, 2016 Ok so after reading your encouraging and helpful comments, and watching a few YouTube videos of b&w film development, I'm convinced I can do this. Here's what I've come up with as a basic kit: Changing bag Spirals and tank (Paterson or Jobo?) Developer Stop Fixer Graduated cylinder Syringe Pegs Anything I'm missing? Also started reading Ansel Adams The camera. What a fascinating read. I suggest getting 3 large graduated cylinders, I have 600ml Paterson ones. Label each in a different colour Dev, Stop, and Fix and don't mix them. It's best to have everything premixed and ready to make the process as calm as possible. There are also a few smartphone apps that provide specific timers that make life easy. And enjoy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwpics Posted November 13, 2016 Share #34 Posted November 13, 2016 Ok so after reading your encouraging and helpful comments, and watching a few YouTube videos of b&w film development, I'm convinced I can do this. Here's what I've come up with as a basic kit: Changing bag Spirals and tank (Paterson or Jobo?) Developer Stop Fixer Graduated cylinder Syringe Pegs Anything I'm missing? Also started reading Ansel Adams The camera. What a fascinating read. Wetting agent. This is to stop getting drink marks on the film when it dries. Negative filing sleeves and ring book. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanadsaad Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share #35 Posted November 13, 2016 Any specific stores? Silverprint is a stone's throw away from where I work. Might drop by there tomorrow morning after my night shift is over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwpics Posted November 13, 2016 Share #36 Posted November 13, 2016 Any specific stores? Silverprint is a stone's throw away from where I work. Might drop by there tomorrow morning after my night shift is over. Silverprint are long-established and very knowledgable so you won't go far wrong with them. I am assuming you know they are now in the Poole area. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanadsaad Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share #37 Posted November 13, 2016 I did not know that till now! Such a shame. I'll have to place the order online then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted November 14, 2016 Share #38 Posted November 14, 2016 I'd suggest adding a few clips - one to suspend the film from while drying and another attached to the bottom of the film to prevent it from curling while drying. Good luck & have fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 14, 2016 Share #39 Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) 2 clothes-pegs also do the job. Though the regular dark-room film clips are 1 quid articles per pair 2nd hand. I follow the suggestion to hang film to dry in the shower cabin, after having taken one, so that the air humidity, which gradually diminishes, prevents dust particles on the emulsion. There are long discussions on the net, how to remove the bulk of humidity first: 2 fingers (my adopted method), napkin, ultra-clean&soft sponge and many others. If you wear surgical gloves a lot the skin on your fingers is soft enough for it, unlike if one does a lot of gardening, wood-work, weight-lifting etc. Edited November 14, 2016 by tri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted November 20, 2016 Share #40 Posted November 20, 2016 C41 film is best shot at the manufacturers stated iso in my experience, and it is best processed by a commercial processor such as any High Street lab with good standards. I would not be happy stretching it, and would test before you do. BTW, is the Kodak film still being made? I thought they had stopped some time ago. Certainly the Fuji alternative is very good (Fuji Neopan 400CN). Gerry Kodak BW400CN ceased production in 2014, but there is still quite a lot of it available, Gerry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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