ShivaYash Posted August 31, 2015 Share #1 Posted August 31, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Having purchased two lenses in the past month I'm on the market for my first 'lux lens and want to start with the 35. Question is, to FLE or not. The price seems bonkers really when comparing the two. I usually shoot wide open or close to and have the M-E so poor iso at anything above 800. But saying that I enjoyed visiting a derelict house yesterday and snapping these handheld with a 28 f2: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I have a 35f2 (v4) which is great but I want something sharper. Been pondering for a while. Not selling this incredible lens, just want to try another more modern example and something a stop faster. Guidance sought. Ta. Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I have a 35f2 (v4) which is great but I want something sharper. Been pondering for a while. Not selling this incredible lens, just want to try another more modern example and something a stop faster. Guidance sought. Ta. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249505-lux-fever/?do=findComment&comment=2879623'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 31, 2015 Posted August 31, 2015 Hi ShivaYash, Take a look here 'Lux fever.... I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
pedaes Posted August 31, 2015 Share #2 Posted August 31, 2015 You say you shoot "close to" so it has to be the FLE. The floating element group was introduced to improve close focus performance, and all the tests suggest this was achieved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted August 31, 2015 Share #3 Posted August 31, 2015 Nice shots with my 28 there Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted August 31, 2015 You say you shoot "close to" so it has to be the FLE. The floating element group was introduced to improve close focus performance, and all the tests suggest this was achieved. My understand, which is novice I'm sure, leads me to believe that the FLE version assists when changing from wide open to other apertures. Is this wrong? Perhaps I am not 100% what focus shift means. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted August 31, 2015 Nice shots with my 28 there Just got this last week and so far it's my camera's new body cap. Really love the wide angle. Not my new standard but close. I'm a 35 shooter but am trying to get to grips with 50 also. The Bokeh on the 50f2 non-apo is just lovely. Not tried the 1.4 because it looks so massive. Also the 28 + hood really does block the finder. Pretty annoying. Have to guess the frame lines but time will help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted August 31, 2015 Share #6 Posted August 31, 2015 The lens barely flares, so you can easily use it without. Buying a 35 and 28 too me never worked, I usually brought a 28 and a 50. Not the 35. If I brought the 35 I would not bring the 28 and 50 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted August 31, 2015 Share #7 Posted August 31, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) My understand, which is novice I'm sure, leads me to believe that the FLE version assists when changing from wide open to other apertures. Is this wrong? Perhaps I am not 100% what focus shift means. The floating element doesn't have anything to do with the focus shift, the lens in itself is adjusted better for focus shift due to aperture change compared to the pre FLE. What the floating element does is keep the lens quality that is usually at it's best at infinity very high also at close focussing range so lets say under 5 meters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted August 31, 2015 The floating element doesn't have anything to do with the focus shift, the lens in itself is adjusted better for focus shift due to aperture change compared to the pre FLE. What the floating element does is keep the lens quality that is usually at it's best at infinity very high also at close focussing range so lets say under 5 meters. Hmmm. The price difference seems to be quite a lot. Is it the best 35 1.4 they have made, at all apertures. I need to carry out my own tests. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShivaYash Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted August 31, 2015 The lens barely flares, so you can easily use it without. Buying a 35 and 28 too me never worked, I usually brought a 28 and a 50. Not the 35. If I brought the 35 I would not bring the 28 and 50 I didn't know what. Shall try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted August 31, 2015 Share #10 Posted August 31, 2015 Well overal the 35 FLE is the best performer, but Leica doesn't make bad lenses Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted August 31, 2015 Share #11 Posted August 31, 2015 Having purchased two lenses in the past month I'm on the market for my first 'lux lens and want to start with the 35. Question is, to FLE or not. The price seems bonkers really when comparing the two. I usually shoot wide open or close to and have the M-E so poor iso at anything above 800. But saying that I enjoyed visiting a derelict house yesterday and snapping these handheld with a 28 f2: I have the pre-FLE and have seen on reason to change. its a very good lens indeed, but some copies may need adjusting by Leica to optimise them so be aware of this if you buy a used copy which is slightly out of adjustment. Mine was used and has been fine without any adjustment though. The 'focus shift' has not proved to be unacceptable and there seems to be some variance in how significant this actually is which may also partially be down to adjustment. I suppose the difference in price needs to be substantially more than the cost of getting the lens adjusted by Leica and 6-bit coded (I think that the current version has only been available as a coded lens) so this might explain the price differential to some extent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted August 31, 2015 Share #12 Posted August 31, 2015 I have the pre-FLE and have seen on reason to change. its a very good lens indeed, but some copies may need adjusting by Leica to optimise them so be aware of this if you buy a used copy which is slightly out of adjustment. Mine was used and has been fine without any adjustment though. The 'focus shift' has not proved to be unacceptable and there seems to be some variance in how significant this actually is which may also partially be down to adjustment. I suppose the difference in price needs to be substantially more than the cost of getting the lens adjusted by Leica and 6-bit coded (I think that the current version has only been available as a coded lens) so this might explain the price differential to some extent. Ditto. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted August 31, 2015 Share #13 Posted August 31, 2015 You say you shoot "close to" so it has to be the FLE. The floating element group was introduced to improve close focus performance, and all the tests suggest this was achieved. Funny....he meant 'close to wide open' aperture-wise, not shooting close to the subject, which is where the FLE is designed to help. Regarding other comments on focus shift, yes, this is another lens characteristic altogether. Many fast-ish, wide-ish lenses exhibit focus shift as one closes down from wide to moderate apertures...even the 35 Summicron can do this. [This should not be confused with front/back focusing, which might be adjustable.] Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 31, 2015 Share #14 Posted August 31, 2015 Never got focus shift with either 50/1.4 FLE or 35/2 asph so far. The FLE is a sharp lens indeed but its bokeh is not the smoothest around. Neither is that of the pre-FLE BTW. FLE, 100% crops at f/1.4 below. Full size: http://tinyurl.com/pd2cavk (16 MB file). Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249505-lux-fever/?do=findComment&comment=2879946'>More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted September 1, 2015 Share #15 Posted September 1, 2015 Never got focus shift with either 50/1.4 FLE or 35/2 asph so far. I have, with the 35 Summicron ASPH, at f4/f5.6, same as Sean Reid reported long ago on his sample. Easy to compensate, and no big deal in print anyway....still a long time favorite lens for me. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted September 1, 2015 Share #16 Posted September 1, 2015 Put simply, the pre-asph 35mm Summilux was a classic - wide-open it produced a soft image with moderate halos around highlights in contrasty circumstances. Love it or leave it behind. Leica no longer has the courage to produce the same again. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ai_Print Posted September 1, 2015 Share #17 Posted September 1, 2015 I have the 35 FLE and have had two copies of the pre-FLE Asph, both great lenses. The FLE is definitely the better of the two wide open and I find that "Bokeh" is not really concern if I am doing my job as a photographer in finding good light, subject matter, narrative, etc. The 35 lux is the most important lens I use for narrative / photojournalism / documentary, here is the FLE at 1.4, 1/15th, 3,200. It pairs fantastically with my 28/2.8 & 50/2, no other lenses needed by me in Leica M mount. Buy either one, log out of here and just get on with making photographs. Simple. Done. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249505-lux-fever/?do=findComment&comment=2880202'>More sharing options...
CheshireCat Posted September 1, 2015 Share #18 Posted September 1, 2015 I usually shoot wide open or close to and have the M-E so poor iso at anything above 800. In 2015, you don't buy a fast lens for the speed. You buy it for the rendering. If you don't mind the size, take also a look at the Zeiss ZM 35/1.4, or the cheaper Voigtlander 35/1.2 (but quite an amazing lens). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted September 1, 2015 Share #19 Posted September 1, 2015 Never got focus shift with either 50/1.4 FLE or 35/2 asph so far. The FLE is a sharp lens indeed but its bokeh is not the smoothest around. [...] I means 35/1.4 FLE sorry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 1, 2015 Share #20 Posted September 1, 2015 Buying a tripod (or even a monopod) is much cheaper and enables far higher image quality than even the very best Leica lens can achieve hand held in low light. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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