Flash Synch speed problem

[AndrewDD]

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It's a little embarrassing that I didn't work this out some time ago, but I'd be interested to know if I'm the only one who has had this issue.

 

On around 1/3 of my photos there is a distinct darkening on the top 5% or so of the image in landscape orientation, and on the right in portrait. I am usually able to fix it in photoshop, but sometimes its a right pain and I have had to dump a few otherwise useable images.

 

On Sunday, when I was shooting with flash, I accidently knocked the exposure dial so that it was faster than the synch speed for a couple of shots. Fortunately I chimped and spotted it quickly - the effect of course was a dark shadow at the top of the picture.

 

Yesterday while at work it occurred to me that I only have this issue when using flash (how didn't I spot that before?). I thought that maybe the shadow could be caused by the shutter and that the synch speed on the dial is actually a little too fast. In the evening I tested it by taking a shot of a plain background at the synch speed (1/180th I think? - the "flash" symbol on the dial), which had the darkening. I then repeated the shot at 1/125th - no shadow at all.

 

So... is the flash synch speed on the M a little bit slower than it actually says on the dial, do other people see this issue? Or is it just me and my shutter is a little slow?

Edited January 15, 2015 by AndrewDD

[Paul J]

It sounds like a faulty shutter. One of my M9's have developed this. I have to put it on 125th, otherwise I get the band. The camera is out of warranty so I haven't sent it off. Just another thing to tack up on this list of many problems i've had with the camera.

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[AndrewDD]

It's a Bowens studio flash. Either with a wireless trigger or a cable through the hot shoe - both have the same effect.

[bocaburger]

Not saying this as an excuse for a faulty shutter, but I have always shot flash (as key light) with any camear with the shutter one tick under (slower) than the supposed highest possible. Of course on all professional and most prosumer DSLRs today you can set the shutter in 1/3 stops, making the practice less of an issue than with a camera which can only be set in half stops.

[pop]

Does changing the setting for firing of the flash between opening and closing curtain make any difference?

[Chuck Albertson]

When I trigger off-camera flash with a PocketWizard on the MM, I occasionally get the same effect at 1/180. Problem disappears when I drop the shutter speed to 1/125.

[pico]

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It's a Bowens studio flash. Either with a wireless trigger or a cable through the hot shoe - both have the same effect.

 

Before blaming the camera, it would be good to test the flash with another camera, if you can.

.

[pop]

BTW, which way do the shutter curtains run? Up or down? From this we could tell whether the flash was early or late with respect to the shutter.

[brill64]

...in classic mode mine syncs correctly at 1/180s & in live view 1/125s? just my experience but were you in live view mode at that time?

[AndrewDD]

Lots of questions! Thanks

 

I almost exclusively use "classic" mode rather than live view (My close vision isn't great and I just can't see the focus peaking effect)

 

I'll try experimenting with opening/closing sync tonight.

 

I've used the flash with other cameras, and had clients using them, with no issue. However, my previous camera did sync at a slower exposure.

 

I've just read the manual (I know ... a last resort!), and it does suggest using a slower speed with studio flash & wireless.

[AndrewDD]

Yup... Operator Error! I should have read the manual

 

I tried changing the synch from start to end, it had no effect. Thanks for the help & suggestions.