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IIIf static electricity build up


nilstor

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I have a IIIc converted to IIIf with heavy static electricity build up as the film is transported across the pressure plate. The discharges ruin practically every frame regardless of fim type, weather, humidity and winding speed.

 

Has anyone of you encountered the same problem, found a solution to it, or can you recommend a good repair shop? (I live in Norway).

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Welcome to the forum !!

This looks an odd problem to me... even it's years that I don't use anymore my old IIIc and IIIf, I am sure I have never had such an issue, and neither read of it; the problem of micro light strokes ruining the frame was, as far as I remember, more related to film rewind (attrition with the felts strip at the sides of cassette's mouth)

Are you sure is a problem of electricy and not a problem of light leaks into the film chamber ? This one is not a rare problem with old Leicas... usually related to worn conditions of the bottom plate (and easy to fix)

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I described your problem to Don Goldberg of DAG, a well thought of camera technician. Here is his answer, with an illustration:

 

Please see my example of static electricity on film. We know basically why and how to get static on film and it usually happens in the winter when the air is at its driest and the person in Norway is in a dry climate. Sometimes just "grounding" yourself by touching a metal pole will discharge any static build-up.

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Mukul, I couldn't make that occur if I had to. It's classic. Is that where the spooling tape was torn off during loading for development?

.

 

Good point! I remember how bright the static flash seemed in the dark when peeling off the tape around the spools. Now I use Leica cassettes so don't peel tape.

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If it affects every frame you'd expect a continuous track of static on the OP's film, not the example shown which I agree does suggest the possibility of static when tearing the tape. The OP could test the theory of static by not rewinding the film at all, just take it out and process it.

 

Steve

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OK, mystery solved. I ran a couple of test rolls through the camera, and the result was beyond doubt: the second shutter curtain was full of tiny, almost microscopic holes. There were also a few in the first curtain.

 

What fooled me in the beginning was that varying times between exposures and various f-stops gave varying patterns on the film, not unlike what you get from electrical discharges.

 

So, this question answered, on to the next one: Can anyone recommend a good camea repair shop?

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Good work, at least you know what you are dealing with now.

 

There is Malcolm Taylor in the UK who could repair it, but by the time a new curtain had been put in and the camera given a general CLA (which would make it good for another few decades of use) you would be perilously close to the cost of simply buying another body.

 

Steve

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Good work, at least you know what you are dealing with now.

 

There is Malcolm Taylor in the UK who could repair it, but by the time a new curtain had been put in and the camera given a general CLA (which would make it good for another few decades of use) you would be perilously close to the cost of simply buying another body.

 

Steve

 

...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new

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...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new

 

...agreed. And the trouble with buying another body is that you'd likely be no better off unless it too had been CLAd.

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I totally agree with robert_parker and masja. Besides, I dont need a defect camera gathering dust on a shelf!

 

I have been looking around a little, and now I am considering Will van Manen Kamera-Service. Would that be a good choice?

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...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new

 

This is true, especially if it has sentimental value or is otherwise in particularly good condition. But prices aren't high at the moment, and a dealer gives six months warranty and most sell them after a CLA, so if it is possible to upgrade the condition, or get a later IIIf in good condition the idea of putting the current body onto the back burner to be repaired later shouldn't be ignored.

 

Steve

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