nilstor Posted August 25, 2014 Share #1 Posted August 25, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have a IIIc converted to IIIf with heavy static electricity build up as the film is transported across the pressure plate. The discharges ruin practically every frame regardless of fim type, weather, humidity and winding speed. Has anyone of you encountered the same problem, found a solution to it, or can you recommend a good repair shop? (I live in Norway). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 25, 2014 Posted August 25, 2014 Hi nilstor, Take a look here IIIf static electricity build up. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
250swb Posted August 26, 2014 Share #2 Posted August 26, 2014 Can you post an example of what it looks like? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted August 26, 2014 Share #3 Posted August 26, 2014 Welcome to the forum !! This looks an odd problem to me... even it's years that I don't use anymore my old IIIc and IIIf, I am sure I have never had such an issue, and neither read of it; the problem of micro light strokes ruining the frame was, as far as I remember, more related to film rewind (attrition with the felts strip at the sides of cassette's mouth) Are you sure is a problem of electricy and not a problem of light leaks into the film chamber ? This one is not a rare problem with old Leicas... usually related to worn conditions of the bottom plate (and easy to fix) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted August 26, 2014 Share #4 Posted August 26, 2014 Yes, light streaks was the first thought I had. Static electricity is a rare problem, normally, and usually occurs when rewinding film through felt lips rather vigorously. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilstor Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share #5 Posted August 26, 2014 Thanks to you all for your interest in my problem! I am doing a test film now, I'll also dig up some old films and examine them closely once again. I'll get back to it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted August 26, 2014 Share #6 Posted August 26, 2014 Perhaps you could try using a Leitz cassette without the felt trap for comparison. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
payasam Posted August 26, 2014 Share #7 Posted August 26, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) I described your problem to Don Goldberg of DAG, a well thought of camera technician. Here is his answer, with an illustration: Please see my example of static electricity on film. We know basically why and how to get static on film and it usually happens in the winter when the air is at its driest and the person in Norway is in a dry climate. Sometimes just "grounding" yourself by touching a metal pole will discharge any static build-up. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/232849-iiif-static-electricity-build-up/?do=findComment&comment=2657371'>More sharing options...
pico Posted August 26, 2014 Share #8 Posted August 26, 2014 Mukul, I couldn't make that occur if I had to. It's classic. Is that where the spooling tape was torn off during loading for development? . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted August 26, 2014 Share #9 Posted August 26, 2014 Mukul, I couldn't make that occur if I had to. It's classic. Is that where the spooling tape was torn off during loading for development?. Good point! I remember how bright the static flash seemed in the dark when peeling off the tape around the spools. Now I use Leica cassettes so don't peel tape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
payasam Posted August 26, 2014 Share #10 Posted August 26, 2014 I don't know, Pico. Don sent me the photo. I've developed many rolls of film but haven't seen this. In any case, the tape is at the very end of the length of film, well away from any image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 26, 2014 Share #11 Posted August 26, 2014 If it affects every frame you'd expect a continuous track of static on the OP's film, not the example shown which I agree does suggest the possibility of static when tearing the tape. The OP could test the theory of static by not rewinding the film at all, just take it out and process it. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilstor Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share #12 Posted August 27, 2014 OK, mystery solved. I ran a couple of test rolls through the camera, and the result was beyond doubt: the second shutter curtain was full of tiny, almost microscopic holes. There were also a few in the first curtain. What fooled me in the beginning was that varying times between exposures and various f-stops gave varying patterns on the film, not unlike what you get from electrical discharges. So, this question answered, on to the next one: Can anyone recommend a good camea repair shop? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 28, 2014 Share #13 Posted August 28, 2014 Good work, at least you know what you are dealing with now. There is Malcolm Taylor in the UK who could repair it, but by the time a new curtain had been put in and the camera given a general CLA (which would make it good for another few decades of use) you would be perilously close to the cost of simply buying another body. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_parker Posted August 29, 2014 Share #14 Posted August 29, 2014 Good work, at least you know what you are dealing with now. There is Malcolm Taylor in the UK who could repair it, but by the time a new curtain had been put in and the camera given a general CLA (which would make it good for another few decades of use) you would be perilously close to the cost of simply buying another body. Steve ...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
masjah Posted August 29, 2014 Share #15 Posted August 29, 2014 ...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new ...agreed. And the trouble with buying another body is that you'd likely be no better off unless it too had been CLAd. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilstor Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share #16 Posted August 29, 2014 I totally agree with robert_parker and masja. Besides, I dont need a defect camera gathering dust on a shelf! I have been looking around a little, and now I am considering Will van Manen Kamera-Service. Would that be a good choice? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
payasam Posted August 30, 2014 Share #17 Posted August 30, 2014 I have seen only praise of it, but I have no personal experience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maarten Posted August 30, 2014 Share #18 Posted August 30, 2014 I can recommend Will van Maanen as well. I never needed him replacing curtains in one of my camera's but he doing a great CLA. I'm sure he will be able to repair your camera! Maarten Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigitalHeMan Posted August 31, 2014 Share #19 Posted August 31, 2014 I have used Will on a number of occasions and have always been happy with the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 1, 2014 Share #20 Posted September 1, 2014 ...but worth every penny if you want to keep a fine old camera working as if it were new This is true, especially if it has sentimental value or is otherwise in particularly good condition. But prices aren't high at the moment, and a dealer gives six months warranty and most sell them after a CLA, so if it is possible to upgrade the condition, or get a later IIIf in good condition the idea of putting the current body onto the back burner to be repaired later shouldn't be ignored. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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