shopfan Posted July 10, 2014 Share #1  Posted July 10, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) just bought it off ebay. All these test photos were taken @f1 & 1.1-1.2 meters. I captured the enlarged view in capture one (about 70%) to better see the shift.  For the last shot, i purposely shift focus (the patch is slightly non-overlap).   I also tried other apertures (up to f11) at the same distance. The focus shifts accordingly. sometimes it shifts to front. sometimes it shifts to back. But nothing seems crazy. But what I really care is just the focus accuracy @f1.  The test chart is placed about 45 degree to vertical/horizontal plane.  Do you think if it is normal?  Thanks! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/230321-my-noctilux-50f1-backfocus/?do=findComment&comment=2627968'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 10, 2014 Posted July 10, 2014 Hi shopfan, Take a look here My noctilux 50/f1 backfocus...... I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
FlashGordonPhotography Posted July 10, 2014 Share #2 Â Posted July 10, 2014 The 50mm f1.0 does have focus shift. It should be spot on wide open and then focus will move backward until eventually (around f5.6) it will become hidden by DOF. Two other things. The Noctilux is difficult to focus anyway so consistancy can be tricky. Also depending on which direction you focus (from infinity o close vs close to infinity) you may get slightly different results. This was called gear lash in one foum entry. It's most common on long lenses (like the 135 APO) but I see it on very fast lenses as well. Â I'd like to see a wide open shot. Â Finally, even if it is actually a non-user issue, it'll be difficult to tell if it's the body or lens without some testing. Likely your other lenses don't have the fine tollerance of a Noctilux. Â Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted July 11, 2014 Share #3 Â Posted July 11, 2014 It's not clear whether you used a tripod for the shots you posted. A 1.1 metres and f/1.0 the depth of focus is so thin that unconsciously swaying backwards and forwards when taking time to focus can affect the plane of focus significantly. I'm not suggesting that this has happened in your pictures but to eliminate this variable I recommend redoing your test with your camera mounted on a tripod and using a cable release or delayed shutter release. Â Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter E Posted July 11, 2014 Share #4 Â Posted July 11, 2014 My Noctilux f1 was focussing spot on in short distance(1-2meter), but was seriously backfocussing at larger distance. I've sent it to Solms for calibration and it's spot on now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiOnara Posted July 11, 2014 Share #5 Â Posted July 11, 2014 I think this is where the M240 and EVF comes in handy. I use that setup with my F1 Noctilux that back focuses and it's now perfect. Â I always think once you add the Noctilux you kinda loose the compactness of the M system so adding a viewfinder is no big deal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billo101 Posted July 12, 2014 Share #6 Â Posted July 12, 2014 Yes, it is normal. Â b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #7  Posted July 12, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) The 50mm f1.0 does have focus shift. It should be spot on wide open and then focus will move backward until eventually (around f5.6) it will become hidden by DOF. Two other things. The Noctilux is difficult to focus anyway so consistancy can be tricky. Also depending on which direction you focus (from infinity o close vs close to infinity) you may get slightly different results. This was called gear lash in one foum entry. It's most common on long lenses (like the 135 APO) but I see it on very fast lenses as well. I'd like to see a wide open shot.  Finally, even if it is actually a non-user issue, it'll be difficult to tell if it's the body or lens without some testing. Likely your other lenses don't have the fine tollerance of a Noctilux.  Gordon  Thanks. That's a good point. So test 3 lens on M9 just now (voigtlander 50/1.1, voigtlander 50/1.5 and leica 50/1). All wide open and test distance is a little more than 1 meter. All show backfocus (wide open). Obviously, the body might need some fine tuning.... I will shot some test photos tomorrow to see if it is needed (i guess not because typically I shot at > 1 meter and I do focus-then-adjust frame). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #8 Â Posted July 12, 2014 I think this is where the M240 and EVF comes in handy. I use that setup with my F1 Noctilux that back focuses and it's now perfect. Â I always think once you add the Noctilux you kinda loose the compactness of the M system so adding a viewfinder is no big deal. Â Thanks for the comment. But i cannot afford 240 right now:) Â Another question about focus feel. It is quite tight comparing to all my other lens....So i am wondering if it is normal:D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #9 Â Posted July 12, 2014 My Noctilux f1 was focussing spot on in short distance(1-2meter), but was seriously backfocussing at larger distance. I've sent it to Solms for calibration and it's spot on now. Â I think to do this, you need to send in both camera and lens....well, i am worried:D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #10  Posted July 12, 2014 It's not clear whether you used a tripod for the shots you posted. A 1.1 metres and f/1.0 the depth of focus is so thin that unconsciously swaying backwards and forwards when taking time to focus can affect the plane of focus significantly. I'm not suggesting that this has happened in your pictures but to eliminate this variable I recommend redoing your test with your camera mounted on a tripod and using a cable release or delayed shutter release. Pete.  That's true. But I like to do it multiple times without tripod and see the results. As long as i get consistent results, i know there must be an issue. Using tripod is nicer. But it doesn't mimic how I normally use camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted July 12, 2014 Share #11 Â Posted July 12, 2014 Fair enough but if you want to eliminate variables so that you reliably know whether the lens is faulty then you need to use a tripod. Without using a tripod you have no way of determining whether the apparent focus shift you're seeing is caused by a faulty lens or you very slightly swaying backwards and forwards. Â Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiOnara Posted July 12, 2014 Share #12 Â Posted July 12, 2014 Thanks for the comment. But i cannot afford 240 right now:)Â Another question about focus feel. It is quite tight comparing to all my other lens....So i am wondering if it is normal:D Â My copy is quite tight too but very smooth and constant. I kinda like it like this. Can focus very accurate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheshireCat Posted July 13, 2014 Share #13 Â Posted July 13, 2014 Thanks. That's a good point. So test 3 lens on M9 just now (voigtlander 50/1.1, voigtlander 50/1.5 and leica 50/1). All wide open and test distance is a little more than 1 meter. All show backfocus (wide open). Obviously, the body might need some fine tuning.... I will shot some test photos tomorrow to see if it is needed (i guess not because typically I shot at > 1 meter and I do focus-then-adjust frame). Â +1 for RF calibration. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share #14 Â Posted July 14, 2014 Thanks guys! I have taken some test shots yesterday and I am indulged! Yes, the backfocus was present; focus shift was present.... Â the fine-tuning will likely cost ~$500. So i decide to learn proper offset when focusing.... Since I only use f1, I hope it won't be too hard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted July 14, 2014 Share #15  Posted July 14, 2014 read down this page. If infinity is also out you can do the adjustment yourself in 30 mins or so with a 2mm allen key.  http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html  Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted July 14, 2014 Share #16  Posted July 14, 2014 read down this page. If infinity is also out you can do the adjustment yourself in 30 mins or so with a 2mm allen key.  http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html  Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share #17  Posted July 15, 2014 read down this page. If infinity is also out you can do the adjustment yourself in 30 mins or so with a 2mm allen key. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html  Gordon  I actually did a test on this. It seems infinity is in focus (perfect overlap to my eye) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shopfan Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share #18  Posted July 15, 2014 the color is wonderful to my eye (my girlfriend seems not impressed though).... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/230321-my-noctilux-50f1-backfocus/?do=findComment&comment=2630730'>More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted July 15, 2014 Share #19  Posted July 15, 2014 read down this page. If infinity is also out you can do the adjustment yourself in 30 mins or so with a 2mm allen key. http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html  Gordon  Yes good advise, I have used the linked guide to adjust my M9, and the trick is to adjust the roller and the length of the arm!  Testing infinity, close and mid distances is paramount to a successful adjustment, it takes time and preferably a lens within spec to test and adjust against. It took me at least an hour close to two I think before I was satisfied that the M9 and all of my lenses where usable.  IMHO it is impossible to shoot with an rangefinder lens with a slim depth of field that is not perfectly adjusted.  So I would get the Noct adjusted and the camera as well...  I have not see people capable of successful shooting the Noct without a reliable calibration. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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