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Leica M with my current lenses


lenicolas

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So, this is it : after saving (almost) since the announcement, I'm finally picking up an M240 tomorrow.

I've read about the sd-cards and their influence on start-up time. I've chosen a new bag and what kind of strap I want... :)

 

But there's a question that's been creeping in the back of my mind for a while now and it's finally time to ask out loud : how will my lenses perform with the M?

I've only ever shot my M lenses on film, and I'm afraid of getting the same kind of disappointment I got with some of my Nikon glass when I switched to Nikon digital.

 

I have :

Zeiss 25mm biogon.

Summicron 50 IV

Elmarit-M 90mm

 

I've read Steve huff's review of the biogon on a M9, so I know what to expect.

I'm most afraid for my 50mm because I absolutely love the look of this lens on film, and by reading the fora, it seems like most M240 users go for the 50 Summilux asph without giving this lens a second thought.

I would hate to mount it on my new M and realize it doesn't resolve even close to the sensor's resolution, or it has awfull magenta edges everywhere or the flare (that was pretty bad on film) is completely taking over...

The 90mm I am the least worried about as I rarely shoot it anyway and was considering selling it and getting an adapter to use my Nikon teles instead. That will depend on how the evf feels...

 

So, for the people who own(ed) the same lenses as I do, did they perform well on the M? Or did you have to update to the newer lenses?

 

sent from a phone with auto-correct.

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I got a Summicron 50 IV together with my M (have another Summicron 50, but, alas, is a 1963 item... :o) ; it is the lens I have used most, at the moment (less than 4 month) with the M, and can only praise it : frankly speaking, I have been pleasantly surprised by how much and EASILY I can use it at f2. I was tempted, of course, by the Lux asph... but money matters when one is paying a M... and, above all, I know well myself... how much would have used it at 1,4 ? Also, I am accoustomed that when I want to use 1,4 I (consciously or not) set myself in the mental mood "I don't care of top sharpness" and enjoy my old Summilux 50 (1962) ... a lens I have loved for long and , on the sentimental side, simply don't want to leave unused.

About resolution of the Summicron on M : I don't know the tech reasons for which someone can say that it doesn't match the M sensor, but give a look to a photo I recently posted in the photo forum (Nature and Wildlife - "Lizard") : it's just a usual jpg, but can assure you that the A4 print from the original (a bit cropped cropped) PSD that I have done today has a resolution that completely satisfies my expectation.

 

I have also an Elmarit-M 90 (last version - chrome) and, about it, the adress is simple : imho is the best 90 one can have (and I have a number of 90s... ;)) : I appreciated it anytime I used it on M8... and on M is the same (with EVF that can turn useful for focusing)

 

Don't know the Biogon... my most used WA with M, till now, has been my Elmarit 28 III (excellent on M) ; I used last week, for the first time, the CV15 on M... and realized HEAVILY the importance of M8 crop sensor... :rolleyes: : on M, no matter the lens' setting (be it for WATE, or 18, or 21....) , corners and borders are significantly reddish... I'm planning for this weekend the setup of Cornerfix to profile it.

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I owned a Biogon 25/2.8 and used it on my M. It's an excellent lens but will show a bit of color fringe if it's not coded (I believe that the code for the Elmarit 24/2.8 worked well). If your lens isn't coded, then its pretty easy to set it up manually and save it as one of the user profiles (also useful for your other lenses if they aren't coded)

 

I also have the Elmarit-M 90/2.8 and it works great on the M

 

Enjoy...

 

Cal

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Thank you for the answers, I will go to my dealer later today. :)

 

Jeff s > no rush, but being able to use my kit as is on the M is kind of a big deal... I've been living (slightly) frugal for the last few months, and have travel plans for the summer. Plus I haven't taken Madame out in ages... It's a relief to know I'm not gonna have to spend thousands on new lenses as this would have made me reconsider the M altogether...

 

sent from a phone with auto-correct.

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Also, what about the 90mm?

I used it on a .85 m6ttl and found it useable but not that enjoyable...

The very small frame and not seeing the depth of field made it quite an abstract experience.

I found that even though focusing worked fine, I didn't really dare to try anything too specific with the framing and left my subject in or close to the center of the frame...

 

Do you still use the OVF for your 90mm or is the EVF a better tool?

Obviously I will find out soon enough :) but it's always interesting to hear about people's experience.

 

 

 

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The Elmarit 90/2.8 # 11807 is superb on the M240 but if yours is like mine it may need some calibration. Just ask for 6-bit coding and the lens should be calibrated for the same price normally. Once calibration is done, the EVF is not necessary at all but it may help if your sight is not perfect.

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Do you still use the OVF for your 90mm or is the EVF a better tool?

Obviously I will find out soon enough :) but it's always interesting to hear about people's experience.

 

Again, personal preference. I prefer traditional RF use, and have no problems using the 90 Elmarit without EVF. But the EVF works fine, too.

 

But this raises some issues, one of which was cited by lct, i.e., be sure your lenses (and camera) are properly calibrated. The M 240, with LV, makes identifying mis-calibration very easy (although not necessarily isolating camera vs lens), with tripod set-up.

 

Even before that, however, make sure your eyes are corrected properly (including astigmatism) for VF use and, if not, do so with diopter, glasses, or whatever. Only then might you experiment with a magnifier to determine if that's an option for RF use rather than the EVF; otherwise eye problems will just be magnified. Magnifiers have some downsides, including a possible reduction in contrast; I prefer not using them. Again, experimentation.

 

Be careful not to draw conclusions about any of your lenses without first ensuring all of the above….camera/lens and your eyes….are working well.

 

Jeff

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The 2.8/25 ZM-Biogon is fantastic on the M240 :).

 

I'd agree totally with that. The Elmarit 24/2,8 or 28/2,8 are recommended by Zeiss. I use 24/2,8 & works well.

 

Martin

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Also, what about the 90mm?

I used it on a .85 m6ttl and found it useable but not that enjoyable...

The very small frame and not seeing the depth of field made it quite an abstract experience.

I found that even though focusing worked fine, I didn't really dare to try anything too specific with the framing and left my subject in or close to the center of the frame...

 

Do you still use the OVF for your 90mm or is the EVF a better tool?

Obviously I will find out soon enough :) but it's always interesting to hear about people's experience.

 

 

 

sent from a phone with auto-correct.

 

I mainly use the OVF... and has been accustomed to the not-so-big frame for decades of M2 and M4 usage. EVF is NOT "better" : it can be useful when you have TIME : time to nail focus when work wide open, time to compose an exact frame : not a device for quick action or moving scenes ; also don't expect to have, with it, a significant control on depth of focus (you wrote "depth of field", but have the impression you referred to depth of focus) : if you use the EVF with a 90 lens stopped down, you often do suffer the loss of luminosity (depending on ambient light... indeed darkening is less than one can expect) , and, above all, do not realize where IS the real focus point (RF is TOP in this sense) , so, you end up with a depth of focus , on the final image, that is someway "casual" (I mean, not CENTERED on the focus point) ; fact is (my opinion) that DOF is such an un-mathematical concept, that the relation between DOF "seen" on a LCD screen (EVF) and DOF "perceived" on a printed picture is loose, and you can't count on it.

 

But... DON'T give up your Elmarit-M 90 !!! I repeat that I'm convinced is the best 90 one can have (no experience on the Macro Elmar, though)

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If your lens isn't coded, then its pretty easy to set it up manually and save it as one of the user profiles (also useful for your other lenses if they aren't coded)

 

So, i got the camera today and was happy to find that both my 25 and 50 focus accurately and are plenty sharp for my taste :)

(haven't had a chance to try the 90)

 

I'll check the manual tomorrow, but strolling through the menu I haven't found how to save my lenses in the user profile? As none of my lenses are coded, that would be a real time saver...

 

 

 

sent from a phone with auto-correct.

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strolling through the menu I haven't found how to save my lenses in the user profile? As none of my lenses are coded, that would be a real time saver...

 

MENU>lens detection press SET

options: off/manual/automatic, use info outer ring to navigate to 'manual'

press SET

scroll up/down list to the lens you have on camera

press SET

press MENU twice and it's done!

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Once you have set up your lens (see above) then press 'Set' and scroll to the bottom...'User Profile'. Press 'Set' again to enter menu and choose 'Save as Profile'. You will be prompted as to which profile to save the settings as (there are 4 available). You have the option to rename each profile.I have mine set as 'Mono' (B&W), 'Norml' (my preferred typical settings), 'Zeiss' (ZM18/4) and 'Zoom" (Leica R 35-40/4)

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Ok. I didn't realize the user profiles were saving the lens detection too.

That's great. Now I just hate to rename the profiles for each lens!

Cheers.

 

sent from a phone with auto-correct.

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I dumped my 90/2 and replaced it with a 90/2.8. It's a great lens.

 

I find it much easier to use.... and found f2 a real pain anyway as DOF is so shallow and focussing so hit and miss that I don't regret parting with it one bit.

 

With live-view and focus peaking you can check calibration in a few minutes ....

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Ditto.

 

That said, I don't have the 50 'cron IV, but do have the M-Hexanon, which I understand is a close copy, & it functions fine on the M 240 (as it did on the M9 & M8).

 

What's the rush? Try them and see; only you know the results that will meet your goals.

 

And if those goals include prints, there are far more variables than the camera and lens(es).

 

Jeff

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My late 90/2 apo works superbly on the M240 to the point that i did not expect getting such good results at full aperture. I suspect that some earlier samples of it may need calibration as well.

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