How do you use your ISO settings?

[mirekti]

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I wondered what your approach is when using different ISO settings.

 

At the moment I still cannot decide whether to use direct settings for shutter and use four profiles as four different ISO values. For example:

 

Profile 1: ISO 200

Profile 2: ISO 800

Profile 3: ISO 1600

Profile 4: ISO 3200

 

or to use those values as a maximum ISO settings with A mode.

I remember when I was using Canon, many were talking about "native" ISO 100, 200, 400 and non native e.g. 320 and were claiming that those values in between are not as good as those native ones. The way I see it is just some extra amplification to the signal nothing more.

 

Could you write some work flows you use your camera i.e. when in A when direct shutter speed, how do you play with ISO etc.?

 

The reason for this is I'm somehow trying to speed up the time needed to take a photo. I started with memorizing for example f/2 - ISO 200 - 1/2000 on a sunny day around 10AM and this gives me a good starting point. I also think if I used only four ISO values it would be easier to remember or get experienced with the camera.

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[NZDavid]

Far too complex for me, I'm afraid. I use my M9 much the same way as my film Ms, in manual mode 90 per cent of the time for exposure and ISO settings. Although I quite like the idea of a manual ISO dial it is a quick and simple two-touch operation with the ISO button and scroll wheel with the readout on the LCD. I like to know what ISO I have set, rather than relying on auto ISO. I usually use ISO 160 outdoors and only push it to 400 or 800 indoors or in lower light. Higher is only if really essential. The in-between ISO settings are useful, especially between 160 and 800.

[pfhrased]

Far too complex for me, I'm afraid. I use my M9 much the same way as my film Ms, in manual mode 90 per cent of the time for exposure and ISO settings. Although I quite like the idea of a manual ISO dial it is a quick and simple two-touch operation with the ISO button and scroll wheel with the readout on the LCD. I like to know what ISO I have set, rather than relying on auto ISO. I usually use ISO 160 outdoors and only push it to 400 or 800 indoors or in lower light. Higher is only if really essential. The in-between ISO settings are useful, especially between 160 and 800.

 

Ditto for me - and tbh most of the time I shoot in good light or with long exposures, so I stick with ISO160.

 

Occasionally I'll be trying something indoor, and I'll manually set ISO higher.. but I'm not often happy with the results and sort of wish I'd kept my X100 for just such occasions!

[flyalf]

Hi,

 

I don't use profiles, nor auto-ISO. For M9 I use ISO 160, 320 and 640. If I need higher ISO I normally keep 640 and underexpose, and then correct in LR PP to reduce SNR. For M: 200, 400 and 800.

[Peter H]

Hi,

 

I don't use profiles, nor auto-ISO. For M9 I use ISO 160, 320 and 640. If I need higher ISO I normally keep 640 and underexpose, and then correct in LR PP to reduce SNR. For M: 200, 400 and 800.

 

I use profiles for my most-frequently used non-coded lenses: two R lenses and one Zeiss. Otherwise, same here, though I have dabbled with 1600 on the M and its fine.

[crispy12]

Don't save ISO to a profile, it's easy enough to change by itself.

 

I use profile 1 for RAW

Profile 2 for jpeg BW

Profile 3 for colour jpeg

[mirekti]

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Don't save ISO to a profile, it's easy enough to change by itself.

 

This makes sense.

I'd like to see the data about ISO and shutter speed in the viewfinder too. Maybe this would make things easier for me.

[Guest malland]

...The reason for this is I'm somehow trying to speed up the time needed to take a photo. I started with memorizing for example f/2 - ISO 200 - 1/2000 on a sunny day around 10AM and this gives me a good starting point. I also think if I used only four ISO values it would be easier to remember or get experienced with the camera.

To speed up taking high ISO photos and to get better image quality, see the technique described in this thread — also see post #101 on page 6, which describes how to expose and post-process.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Surabaya-Johnny

[Guest roey]

I know I am in the minority here but I use auto ISO a lot, especially when I don't have the time to get manual exposure right. On the M240 I usually let it go all the way up to 3200, because I prefer a slightly noisier picture over a blurry one. I use the presets to control the auto ISO settings (max ISO, min shutter speed) -- that way I can set the camera set to a known state when I need to act quickly.

 

BTW: There is nothing wrong with the in-between ISO values on the M9/M240.

[lct]

...

Profile 1: ISO 200

Profile 2: ISO 800

Profile 3: ISO 1600

Profile 4: ISO 3200...

Profile 1: ISO 200

Profile 2: Auto ISO (up to 2500)

Otherwise manual settings.

[tobey bilek]

When the light falls, I push it up much like changing to fast film. I simply never tried auto ISO, but it seems kool on the surface.

 

My brain is more primitive than M camera electronics.

 

I use profiles to recall preset WB pre made with Whi Bal card.

[dwbell]

Yup, when I started digital I selected the ISO. Now, as all my bodies have very clean ISO up to 3200 (oh no, scratch that, my M9-P doesn't) I set auto ISO and a minimum shutter and choose my aperture for creative reasons. Above 1xfocal length on shutter and below 3200 and I mostly don't care what combination it is. If it's constant lighting, fixed location etc I'll hand held meter manually and go all manual. But into buildings, shadow, direct sun, covered shade, open shade I can't be bothered metering everything any more, AEL lock on a neutral tone or inside of my hand (+2/3 of a stop) and focus on moment / design / light direction.

[ananda]

Profile 1 DNG ISO 200

Profile 2 DNG ISO 2000

Profile 3 DNG and JPEG ISO 200

Profile 4 DNG and JPEG ISO 2000

[menos I M6]

I use the Leica M cameras for their wonderful simplicity.

Dealing with profiles or endless intermediate ISO profiles is too distracting for me, so I simplify.

 

I only use the leftmost bank of ISO settings with my M9 and Mono, which equals to the film push speeds, I happen to also use with TriX or Neopan (sadly discontinued now, but there are still two frozen bricks left).

 

This way I only have to press the up/down buttons to select ISO and not have to scroll to endless completely meaningless ISO options.

 

I change ISO speeds, as I do aperture and shutter speeds, based on the light I walk into.

If I want utmost image quality or need the biggest dynamic range for my raw file, I might use the base native ISO (ISO320 with the Mono or 160 with the M9).

 

I find it sad, the digital Ms do not have a mechanic ISO speed dial, as the film M bodies do (I absolutely loved, how the ISO speed dial was integrated into the shutter speed dial on the EPSON R-D1 - brilliant and very fast and convenient to use.

 

Before I started to shoot Leica M, I used to extensively refine AutoISO settings with my Nikon DSLRs.

RF shooting taught me how much better and easier it is for me to select my ISO speeds manually and how to do it fast.

 

The best camera for this (apart from the EPSON R-D1) is the M8 for me.

 

To change ISO:

- press the set button 2x

- push up/down to the wanted ISO speed

- press the set button 1x

 

Perfect - no need to hold one button, while fiddling with a second hand on the controls to select an ISO speed.

 

I think, we need a mechanic ISO dial, which let's us select full ISO stops from ISO 100 − 6400 and an additional ISO menu for the people who need more refined ISO choices, which over rules the mechanic dial and has one selection "ISO dial" to have the ISO selected not by the menu but by the cameras mechanic dial.

 

The dial should not turn endless, but should have end stops at base and max ISO and click in full stops only - this way you can select ISO by feel, as you can set the aperture (sadly Leica stopped this very helpful feature with the introduction of the large speed dials, which turn 360º).

[flyalf]

I use the Leica M cameras for their wonderful simplicity.

Dealing with profiles or endless intermediate ISO profiles is too distracting for me, so I simplify.

 

I only use the leftmost bank of ISO settings with my M9 and Mono, which equals to the film push speeds, I happen to also use with TriX or Neopan (sadly discontinued now, but there are still two frozen bricks left).

 

This way I only have to press the up/down buttons to select ISO and not have to scroll to endless completely meaningless ISO options.

 

I change ISO speeds, as I do aperture and shutter speeds, based on the light I walk into.

If I want utmost image quality or need the biggest dynamic range for my raw file, I might use the base native ISO (ISO320 with the Mono or 160 with the M9).

 

I find it sad, the digital Ms do not have a mechanic ISO speed dial, as the film M bodies do (I absolutely loved, how the ISO speed dial was integrated into the shutter speed dial on the EPSON R-D1 - brilliant and very fast and convenient to use.

 

Before I started to shoot Leica M, I used to extensively refine AutoISO settings with my Nikon DSLRs.

RF shooting taught me how much better and easier it is for me to select my ISO speeds manually and how to do it fast.

 

The best camera for this (apart from the EPSON R-D1) is the M8 for me.

 

To change ISO:

- press the set button 2x

- push up/down to the wanted ISO speed

- press the set button 1x

 

Perfect - no need to hold one button, while fiddling with a second hand on the controls to select an ISO speed.

 

I think, we need a mechanic ISO dial, which let's us select full ISO stops from ISO 100 − 6400 and an additional ISO menu for the people who need more refined ISO choices, which over rules the mechanic dial and has one selection "ISO dial" to have the ISO selected not by the menu but by the cameras mechanic dial.

 

The dial should not turn endless, but should have end stops at base and max ISO and click in full stops only - this way you can select ISO by feel, as you can set the aperture (sadly Leica stopped this very helpful feature with the introduction of the large speed dials, which turn 360º).

 

Yes, yes, yes. Couldn't agree more on all you points. Lets print your post, mount it in a frame and send to Leica. The basics (focus, aperture, shutter, ISO) MUST be covered by tactile-enabled switches. Everything else is for the consumers not doing photography.

[charlesphoto99]

Like Dirk, I've always used the left hand column of iso's. Quick to change and covers all the major bases in one stop film equivalents (200, 400, 800, 1600). I have a preset for auto iso but rarely use it. Manual is just far too easy on the M's and the reason many (should be) use (ing) it in the first place.