Trev Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8181 Posted November 30, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) @brucegill. It's definitely #1 Bruce. For me it's got it all. Floats my boat. Terrific contrast, super pose. Your very lucky to have a willing and attractive model. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Trev, Take a look here I like film...(open thread). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
brucegill Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8182 Posted November 30, 2015 @brucegill. It's definitely #1 Bruce. For me it's got it all. Floats my boat. Terrific contrast, super pose. Your very lucky to have a willing and attractive model. Thanks Trev! much appreciated. She was asleep lol. She likes it though, so all is good. Hope your getting on well with your new M6! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8183 Posted November 30, 2015 Ric, loving your B&W posts (OK, along with all the others). One thing that sticks out, "M6 & 50mm & XP2". No other lenses? Use any other film? Just asking, as I am thinking I should just concentrate on the one body/lens/film combo. I sort of did this by necessity a couple of years ago on a Europe trip when I bought an X1 (digital, fixed lens camera) and actually enjoyed it, no mucking with which lens to fit, etc. Anyway, loving them. Gary Hiya Gary, I occasionally dabble with other lens and film combos, and (shh) often use a Contax T2 (38mm lens) with the usual XP2. But I returned to film with the M6 and tried hard to stick to the single lens and film to try to learn my craft. My craft remains cr@p, of course, but I must admit things are becoming a lot more second nature as they're supposed to. Next step is to run down my XP2 stash and switch to Ilford HP5+, which is also an ISO 400 film... but it pushes nicely, which to be honest XP2 doesn't. Better for handheld night shots. There's a famous blog post somewhere that extols sticking to the same body/lens/film for a year. Worth reading and following, I'd say, although being so strict is beyond my discipline. Ric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkassenkunde Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8184 Posted November 30, 2015 After my "experimental" image with interesting colors and stunning light leaks, I wanted to show you something more natural. Made with the Mamiya 645 1000s with Sekor-C 80 @2,8 on Portra 160. For scanning I used my Leica X Vario again. I must say that I am impressed by the details, medium format delivers. One might say, it produces an almost "digital" output - but I love it as much as the portrayed lady Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 11 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2940184'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #8185 Posted November 30, 2015 Henry, Somehow I missed the notes before this: My condolences on your loss. May your mother reside joyfully in your memory and grief depart you soon. My best through the tough times to come while you sort everything out. Hello Henry, I am sorry to hear about your mother. This is a terrible event. Best Regards, Michael Thank you Ramarren and Michael a part of mine is gone , the reason of my sadness Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgary Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8186 Posted November 30, 2015 This is pure gold. Love the setting and clear emotion here.Cheers, I'm sorry I've not posted for ages but every time I get to shoot the weather is awful with no good light, no hunting shots because Jane's horse has had to be rested but I have 2 weeks off a Christmas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8187 Posted November 30, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks Adam! Try-x at 1600, D76 1+1 at 12:30 - 20 degrees from memory (don't have the negs with my notes to hand). Still working it all out... tried HP5 but keep coming back to Tri-x. 400 seems way too slow in the UK at this time of year, 800 is ok but love the extra contrast from 1600, though then you obviously get less details/sharpness (that last bit is a struggle after using digital and having everything overly razor sharp. Amusingly, although I struggle with not seeing that detail sometimes, it's becoming what I dislike about digital. Go figure). Kind of want to settle on one film, one speed, one developer and then I can see where I'm going. Bruce - one approach you migt try is to expose tri-x at 800 and then develope it at 1250. This could be a hapy medium for you in that it will give you the extra speed @800 and the extra 1/2 stop development time will pop the highlights just a touch. so you wont lose the density in the film that you will with a full two stop push and still achieve nice contrast. This is my regular workflow with Tri-X... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegill Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8188 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Bruce - one approach you migt try is to expose tri-x at 800 and then develope it at 1250. This could be a hapy medium for you in that it will give you the extra speed @800 and the extra 1/2 stop development time will pop the highlights just a touch. so you wont lose the density in the film that you will with a full two stop push and still achieve nice contrast. This is my regular workflow with Tri-X... Thanks Adam. That sounds perfect. 800 seemed ok but a little flat for what I wanted, but the detail was there. I do like higher contrast, but wanted a little more detail than I'm ever going to get at 1600. Thanks so much! I'd read Yousuf Karsh developed a touch longer than he exposed the film. its only now that this makes sense. Thank you so much! Here's a couple at 800: Untitled by Bruce Gill, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Gill, on Flickr I recon these dev'd at 1250 would be perfect for me. I owe you a beer! Edited November 30, 2015 by brucegill 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegill Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8189 Posted November 30, 2015 Sorry, one more question Adam... What sort of times are you using? Try-x at 800 is the same as at 400 everywhere I look. And I can only find times for 400-800 and 1600? Just split the difference? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8190 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) A few more recent autumn photographs (mostly taken in Dorset using Tmax-100 and all with 35 Summicron ASPH). Edited November 30, 2015 by wattsy 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Benqui Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8191 Posted November 30, 2015 A shoemaker in Yazd, Iran Tmax 400, MP, 50 mm Summilux best regards Marc Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 15 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2940258'>More sharing options...
A miller Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8192 Posted November 30, 2015 Sorry, one more question Adam... What sort of times are you using? Try-x at 800 is the same as at 400 everywhere I look. And I can only find times for 400-800 and 1600? Just split the difference? Bruce - i outsource all of my film processing to a professional lab in NYC. so I dont know the exact process that is used and merely provide the instructions. but i think that your approach makes sense. essentiallly, you are developong at 1.5 stops over the box speed, so i would add 75% of the difference between the box speed dev time and the 2 stop dev time (as stated in the tri-x official publication) to the overall dev time. and would expose the shota at 800 (so tig are developing about a half stop more than the exposure given to the film.). i think this should be a good rule of thumb, recognizing that this is an art and not so much a science... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8193 Posted November 30, 2015 Untitled by Bruce Gill, on Flickr And this is really nice! As in really, really nice! Hatfield? Three decades ago I worked at Chase Farm in Enfield, before moving into the Nova Scotian snows. Welcome to the forum. Chris 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegill Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8194 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Bruce - i outsource all of my film processing to a professional lab in NYC. so I dont know the exact process that is used and merely provide the instructions. but i think that your approach makes sense. essentiallly, you are developong at 1.5 stops over the box speed, so i would add 75% of the difference between the box speed dev time and the 2 stop dev time (as stated in the tri-x official publication) to the overall dev time. and would expose the shota at 800 (so tig are developing about a half stop more than the exposure given to the film.). i think this should be a good rule of thumb, recognizing that this is an art and not so much a science... Thanks again Adam. I'll look into it that tomorrow. Got a roll of 3200 delta in at the moment, but this TX400 at 800 and Dev at 1250ish sounds like a perfect plan. Can't wait. And this is really nice! As in really, really nice! Hatfield? Three decades ago I worked at Chase Farm in Enfield, before moving into the Nova Scotian snows. Welcome to the forum. Chris Many thanks Chris. Much appreciated. I Was happy with the feel of that one and the detail that came out. Chase farm rings a bell for some reason.... I'm in a small village called Hatfield Broad Oak, but not far from Enfield. Nova Scotia ,use be fantastic and VERY different from Enfield. Some where id love to visit. Edited November 30, 2015 by brucegill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegill Posted November 30, 2015 Share #8195 Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Love the light in those @wattsy. Really nice. Thought I recognised the look and feel and then realised I'm following you already on Flickr! Lovely stuff Edited November 30, 2015 by brucegill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 1, 2015 Share #8196 Posted December 1, 2015 Lisbon by -Ric Capucho- M6 & Summicron 50mm & XP2. Ric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share #8197 Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) Sorry, one more question Adam... What sort of times are you using? Try-x at 800 is the same as at 400 everywhere I look. And I can only find times for 400-800 and 1600? Just split the difference? Bruce , my experience stops pushing to 800 with Portra film 400 and TX400 ... and being careful about the development time with the developer. If you like the grain can grow a little this time. Sometimes it gives beautiful effects like on your portrait above which will be prettier in print on photographic paper through an enlarger. Best Henry Edited December 1, 2015 by Doc Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share #8198 Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) an example pushing 400 to 800 at my last wedding as photographer , inside a church without flash and tripod exp.time 1/125 or may be 1/60 , f:1,4 dev home lab. Audrey and Etienne August 2015 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Leica M7 Summilux 50 Asph Your advice about grain Best Henry Edited December 1, 2015 by Doc Henry 4 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Leica M7 Summilux 50 Asph Your advice about grain Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?do=findComment&comment=2940497'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share #8199 Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks Adam. That sounds perfect. 800 seemed ok but a little flat for what I wanted, but the detail was there. I do like higher contrast, but wanted a little more detail than I'm ever going to get at 1600. Thanks so much! I'd read Yousuf Karsh developed a touch longer than he exposed the film. its only now that this makes sense. Thank you so much! Here's a couple at 800: Untitled by Bruce Gill, on Flickr Untitled by Bruce Gill, on Flickr I recon these dev'd at 1250 would be perfect for me. I owe you a beer! Bruce , great pictures specially the second Best Henry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share #8200 Posted December 1, 2015 A few more recent autumn photographs (mostly taken in Dorset using Tmax-100 and all with 35 Summicron ASPH). Ian sheep in 3D , very nice contre-jour ! Is Fuji the picture in color ? Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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