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use flash


bwibowo

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I seldom use flash on the M8, since it is possible to PP the images; lift the shadows enough and at the same time keep the blacks black.

I have too shoot in RAW to be able to do so of course...

 

This goes for M8 indoor and outdoor shooting.

 

If it's a paid event or PJ style shooting with low light where I need to produce clear images of the guests i use fill flash but then I mostly would choose to shoot with my Nikon D3 to be fast enough to capture the moment with AF and high ISO also.

 

It takes skills to make good flash images IMHO....

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Although I'm using the M9, I had similar thoughts that I don't need to use flash until recently when I find that I cannot see the faces of my subjects in difficult light.

 

I bought myself the Leica SF24D, The flash unit together with my Nissin SC01 universal cord is always in my camera bag ready to shoot.

 

Check out my recent work using the flash - in People section of this forum - Vendors ladies on bicycle in Hanoi. Taken early in the morning and it will be almost impossible To shoot these subjects without the flash

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/people/262060-vendor-ladies-bicycles-hanoi-vietnam.html#post2234455

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It takes skills to make good flash images IMHO....

 

I agree. It is easy to take flash images, but requires a new skill set to make good ones. By good I mean images that appear to have been taken in good light rather than bad light with flash.

 

There are times when flash is just required. I do a lot of family snapshots of events on our large covered back porch. During the daytime and without flash I must expose for the subjects and let the background (lit by direct sun) blowout. This results in a very unattractive image. Alternatively I can use bounced flash and balance the exposure of the subject with that of the background creating an attractive image where it is not obvious flash was used. This is true whether I shoot with my M9 or D4. Fast glass and/or high ISO do not help. The dynamic range of the image exceeds what can be captured without the use of flash.

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A friend has asked me to shoot a family event, I reckon I will need a flash unit for certain shots

 

So I would welcome any recommendations on flash units to partner my M8.

 

Will not be able to afford a Leica unit so used or reasonable compatible brands would help me.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Steve.

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Will not be able to afford a Leica unit so used or reasonable compatible brands would help me.

 

Only the Leica badged flashes (SF-24D & SF-58) seem to do TTL metering. But several other brands (Nikon and Metz to name two) have models that will work in Auto Mode (where the flash itself controls the exposure). I used both the Nikon SB-25 and SB-800 with good results before I got the SF-58. I believe either a Nikon or Leica dedicated Metz will be fine as well. If you are OK with pure manual flash almost any flash that fits the hotshoe will work.

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Check out my recent work using the flash - in People section of this forum - Vendors ladies on bicycle in Hanoi. Taken early in the morning and it will be almost impossible To shoot these subjects without the flash

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/people/262060-vendor-ladies-bicycles-hanoi-vietnam.html#post2234455

 

Every image is under-exposed.

 

I suspect that you had the flash set wrong.

.

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Thank you Pico.

 

But I like these photos how it turn out there.

 

These were my first try at using the flash at dawn. Still learning - any similar image that you can recommend that I look at as an example ?

 

 

Every image is under-exposed.

 

I suspect that you had the flash set wrong.

.

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Not long ago, I photographed an indoor event with a Metz 45CL-4 flash mounted to my MP which was loaded with Tri-X.

 

I bounced the flash off the ceiling and the exposures were perfect except for two frames which were my fault (flash was not 100% recycled in one, flash head was aimed wrong due to switching between portrait and landscape framing in the other) .

 

It was the first time I had used flash with my MP and I was quite pleased with the results.

 

It's pretty simple stuff - just follow the instructions in the flash user's manual, plug the sync cord into the port on the camera and use the 1/50 shutter speed sync on the camera.

 

I would much rather shoot with exsisting light but sometimes the illumination is so poor that it's just not doable. In those situations, bounce flash illuminated images beats the crap out of no images at all. ;)

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Mine are family party photos and I am not allowed to post them at parents request.

 

Dragging the Shutter

 

The technique is called dragging the shutter.

 

Dragging The Camera Shutter at the Wedding: WedPix Wedding Photography Article

 

There is no reason to keep the flash on camera either

 

Might add two points. I can use ceiling bounce flash that keeps white balance more towards daylight, the in interior lamps get a nice warm glow so you can see they are on, but they contribute little otherwise.

 

Flash can be filtered to match ambient with a warming filter so it more closely matches existing WB.

 

Do it all correctly and you can not tell they are flash pictures.

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  • 1 month later...

I use the large Leica flash with a Quantum battery on my M8.2 and the cord connector to power the flash tries to jab me in the eye.

 

I also use my Alien Bees with a wireless trigger with the same camera. Nicer results with umbrellas than direct or bounce flash. More work too.

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I use the cheap Yongnuo wireless kit (Nikon transmitter) and my Canon flash units with my M8.2 for off camera flash. Great fun but requires manual control of the flash unit. It does however mean that you have to understand manual flash photography in much the same way that a rangefinder requires you to understand how to focus manually.

 

James

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I agree with the comments so far and as a general rule I prefer natural light and no flash but for those times when I need to add shadows, I use two simple manual flash units. One is placed high and to one side of the camera with a slave trigger. The second is placed on the camera and wrapped in two layers of waxed paper to reduce the light output by one f stop. The main flash alone will create harsh shadows which can be softened with the fill flash. The camera doesn't need TTL linkages as a simple guide number and the distance to the main flash works well enough.

 

The set up may sound awkward and an assistant to hold the main flash unit may be necessary. When I have more time for a portrait sitting two umbrellas on stands with the same flash units facing inward produces a softer light and even nicer shadows.

 

Flash units are all about creating shadows and catch lights in the eyes, in my opinion.

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