R - Telephoto lenses

[dennersten]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

With the Leica M i am looking forward to by one long lenses for nature photography. We just moved out from the town into the nature. We see deers, elks, hawks etc passing by.

 

Possibly a 400 mm? . I have a 180 as the longest lens today

 

There seems to be a lot of generations of lenses. The old looks big! Are they even useful?

 

Could somebody please give me an advice what i should get?

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[k_g_wolf ✝]

What about a converter for a start ?

 

Tthere is a type 1.4 and a 2.0 to choose from. The 2-converter would get you

to 360 mm with your existing lens, esp. nice if your 180mm-lens has a largest

f-stop of 2.8 or even 2.0.

 

 

Regards

GEORG

[dennersten]

What about a converter for a start ?

 

Tthere is a type 1.4 and a 2.0 to choose from. The 2-converter would get you

to 360 mm with your existing lens, esp. nice if your 180mm-lens has a largest

f-stop of 2.8 or even 2.0.

 

 

Regards

GEORG

 

 

Great idea thanks! I will do that! As i don't know exactly how much i will use it just yet.

 

But it would still be very nice to from someone with experience what do to or not to do wit long Leica R och Visoflex lenses.

[stuny]

If you get a tele-extender I strongly recommend the later APO models. I've used a 2X extender with an 80-200 R zoom for years and have been most pleased with the results.

[k-hawinkler]

My recommendation, if you can find it at an affordable price, APO-Telyt-R 1:4/280 and APO-Extender-R 2x. That seems to work very well together and gives you some reach.

[topoxforddoc]

If you want to know about the older Telyt R lense, then Doug Herr would know. Doug used the older Telyts until he bought his 280/4APO.

 

Charlie

[Larcomb]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

With the Leica M i am looking forward to by one long lenses for nature photography. We just moved out from the town into the nature. We see deers, elks, hawks etc passing by.

 

Possibly a 400 mm? . I have a 180 as the longest lens today

 

There seems to be a lot of generations of lenses. The old looks big! Are they even useful?

 

Could somebody please give me an advice what i should get?

 

the 400 f/6.8 or 560 f/6.8 are good ones.

[jaapv]

Whilst seconding the remarks about the APO 280/4.0 and extenders, don't forget the Vario-Elmar 105-280. Very close to the 280 APO in quality, but far more versatile.

And don't go too long for a first foray into long, mostly heavy lenses. They require practice and technique to handle. 400 is a step too far initially imo.

[AB007]

And don't go too long for a first foray into long, mostly heavy lenses. They require practice and technique to handle. 400 is a step too far initially imo.

 

+1. It's no fun to use the 2x APO with the 280 APO initially. Maybe get a 1.4x APO first and do not forget to use a steady tripod.

[jaapv]

Indeed - and the point is that the intended use is wildlife. Many shots are taken from a tripod, but I find I prefer a beanbag or monopod and freehand - that takes a bit of experience.

[wildlightphoto]

With the Leica M i am looking forward to by one long lenses for nature photography. We just moved out from the town into the nature. We see deers, elks, hawks etc passing by.

 

Possibly a 400 mm? . I have a 180 as the longest lens today

 

There seems to be a lot of generations of lenses. The old looks big! Are they even useful?

 

Could somebody please give me an advice what i should get?

 

I'd skip the Visoflex lenses. While state-of-the-art when they were new and beautifully made, they're at least 40 years old, very heavy construction and typically do not have a close minumum focus distance.

 

For a first long lens I'd consider an APO lens gross overkill. Learn proper technique with a less expensive lens, and if you find you're using it and enjoying it more than you expected to you can trade up to a better lens.

 

For a full-frame camera and a reasonably large image of the animal I'd suggest a minimum of 250mm, and preferably 400mm. Learning good long-lens technique will be easier with the good high-ISO capabilities of modern cameras vs. the Kodachrome 64 I learned with.

 

I like being able to use a shoulder stock with my long lenses. In good light it frees me from the tripod. I also like a close minimum focus distance, using extension tubes, and being able to easily rotate the camera between horizontal and vertical format.

 

So here are a few of the lenses I've used and what I liked and disliked about them:

 

250mm f/4 Telyt: I ruled out the first version because the tripod mount doesn't rotate and it has a long minimum focus distance. The late version has a much closer minimum focus distance and a good rotating tripod mount, though the push-to-release rotation stops are a bit of a nuisance. Optically it's OK centrally, shows some color fringes laterally, bokeh can be a bit harsh, flare resitance is excellent and color quality is good.

 

280mm f/4.8 (for Visoflex, late version): it has a long minimum focus distance and is slow and cumbersome to focus. Image detail is good but I never got along with the color quality. One sample (with helical focus) flared any time the sun was in the sky, another sample (on a Televit) was immune to flare. With either the normal helical focus or on the Televit it was easy to rotate bewteen horizontal and vertical. The Televit gave a good close focus distance but some selectivity is required when adding extension tubes or you'll get mechanical vignetting from the tubes. Same is true of the Visoflex-mount Televit. The adapter to fit the 280mm f/4.8 head on the Televit is quite scarce.

 

350mm f/4.8: Pretty much a longer version of the late 250mm f/4 Telyt, except that focusssing was slower and more cumbersome. I didn't see as much lateral color fringes as with the 250 but I tried this lens after using the 280mm f/4 APO and compared with the 280/4 its image quality was disappointing.

 

280mm f/2.8 APO (non-Modular): image quality quite good centrally, falls off toward the corners, bokeh can be disturbing. Very good minimum focus dustance, good rotating tripod collar but has the same rotation stops as the 250mm and 350mm Telyts. Quite heavy.

 

400mm and 560mm f/5.6 for Televit: I've grouped these together because they're very similar and share the Televit focussing grip. IMHO these are collectors' lenses. The later f/6.8 Telyts flare less, are much lighter weight, can be used much more easily with a shoulder stock, have better color quality and better central sharpness.

 

400mm and 560mm f/6.8 Telyt: Lightweight, designed for hand-held use (with shoulder stock) and very quick and handy focus. The minimum focus distance isn't as close as a modern lens but extension tubes selected with care to avoid vignetting can be used. The dedicated 60mm extension tube # 14182 is a bit fiddly to work with since it goes between the lens head and the camera mount tube, and some ebay sellers think the tube is worth as much as the lens! Optically these are very sharp centrally, have significant field curvature, and the image detail falls off toward the edges. They also show bright luminous color fringes in higher contrast objects in the out-of-focus backgrounds. Working the sliding focus takes some practice and can be frustrating at first, especially if the lubricant has dried out but with practice it's quick and intuitive. The focussing mechanism can be a little more fiddly when working from a tripod. These are HAND-HELD lenses. The 400mm f/6.8 with the shoulder stock would be my choice for a first wildlife lens.

 

280mm f/4 APO: A nirvana lens, priced accordingly. This is a lens you step up to once you've mastered long-lens technique. Not as flare-resitant as the f/6.8 Telyts, better color quality, sharp sharp sharp to the extreme corners of the image area even with 1.4x APO or 2x APO extenders or with extension tubes, an excellent rotating tripod collar, quick, precise and well-damped focussing ring and a closer minimum focus distance than any of the above.

 

Don't forget the New M can also use other brands of long lenses.

[jaapv]

One addition - I found the 400 5.6 on Televit will have a distinct vignette on the M9. Stopped down one stop they are, imo the same image quality as the later 6.8 (but heavier as Doug notes)

[k-hawinkler]

One addition - I found the 400 5.6 on Televit will have a distinct vignette on the M9. Stopped down one stop they are, imo the same image quality as the later 6.8 (but heavier as Doug notes)

 

 

Does that vignetting happen only for the lens wide open or also for other apertures?

[k-hawinkler]

Here are some images taken with the 560mm f/6.8 Telyt on a tripod, but using a Bellows II for fine focusing:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/nature-wildlife/254577-hummingbirds-galore-nex-7-telyt-1-a.html

 

as explained here:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/254586-telyt-400-560-mm-f-6-a.html

[jaapv]

I only tested it wide open and one stop closed.

[topoxforddoc]

Here’s a shot taken with the 280/4 APO last weekend at Goodwood. It just goes to show that there are some things more expensive than a Leica!!

 

280/4 APO R9/DMR

 

Charlie

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[Larcomb]

I'd skip the Visoflex lenses. While state-of-the-art when they were new and beautifully made, they're at least 40 years old, very heavy construction and typically do not have a close minumum focus distance.

 

For a first long lens I'd consider an APO lens gross overkill. Learn proper technique with a less expensive lens, and if you find you're using it and enjoying it more than you expected to you can trade up to a better lens.

 

For a full-frame camera and a reasonably large image of the animal I'd suggest a minimum of 250mm, and preferably 400mm. Learning good long-lens technique will be easier with the good high-ISO capabilities of modern cameras vs. the Kodachrome 64 I learned with.

 

I like being able to use a shoulder stock with my long lenses. In good light it frees me from the tripod. I also like a close minimum focus distance, using extension tubes, and being able to easily rotate the camera between horizontal and vertical format.

 

So here are a few of the lenses I've used and what I liked and disliked about them:

 

250mm f/4 Telyt: I ruled out the first version because the tripod mount doesn't rotate and it has a long minimum focus distance. The late version has a much closer minimum focus distance and a good rotating tripod mount, though the push-to-release rotation stops are a bit of a nuisance. Optically it's OK centrally, shows some color fringes laterally, bokeh can be a bit harsh, flare resitance is excellent and color quality is good.

 

280mm f/4.8 (for Visoflex, late version): it has a long minimum focus distance and is slow and cumbersome to focus. Image detail is good but I never got along with the color quality. One sample (with helical focus) flared any time the sun was in the sky, another sample (on a Televit) was immune to flare. With either the normal helical focus or on the Televit it was easy to rotate bewteen horizontal and vertical. The Televit gave a good close focus distance but some selectivity is required when adding extension tubes or you'll get mechanical vignetting from the tubes. Same is true of the Visoflex-mount Televit. The adapter to fit the 280mm f/4.8 head on the Televit is quite scarce.

 

350mm f/4.8: Pretty much a longer version of the late 250mm f/4 Telyt, except that focusssing was slower and more cumbersome. I didn't see as much lateral color fringes as with the 250 but I tried this lens after using the 280mm f/4 APO and compared with the 280/4 its image quality was disappointing.

 

280mm f/2.8 APO (non-Modular): image quality quite good centrally, falls off toward the corners, bokeh can be disturbing. Very good minimum focus dustance, good rotating tripod collar but has the same rotation stops as the 250mm and 350mm Telyts. Quite heavy.

 

400mm and 560mm f/5.6 for Televit: I've grouped these together because they're very similar and share the Televit focussing grip. IMHO these are collectors' lenses. The later f/6.8 Telyts flare less, are much lighter weight, can be used much more easily with a shoulder stock, have better color quality and better central sharpness.

 

400mm and 560mm f/6.8 Telyt: Lightweight, designed for hand-held use (with shoulder stock) and very quick and handy focus. The minimum focus distance isn't as close as a modern lens but extension tubes selected with care to avoid vignetting can be used. The dedicated 60mm extension tube # 14182 is a bit fiddly to work with since it goes between the lens head and the camera mount tube, and some ebay sellers think the tube is worth as much as the lens! Optically these are very sharp centrally, have significant field curvature, and the image detail falls off toward the edges. They also show bright luminous color fringes in higher contrast objects in the out-of-focus backgrounds. Working the sliding focus takes some practice and can be frustrating at first, especially if the lubricant has dried out but with practice it's quick and intuitive. The focussing mechanism can be a little more fiddly when working from a tripod. These are HAND-HELD lenses. The 400mm f/6.8 with the shoulder stock would be my choice for a first wildlife lens.

 

280mm f/4 APO: A nirvana lens, priced accordingly. This is a lens you step up to once you've mastered long-lens technique. Not as flare-resitant as the f/6.8 Telyts, better color quality, sharp sharp sharp to the extreme corners of the image area even with 1.4x APO or 2x APO extenders or with extension tubes, an excellent rotating tripod collar, quick, precise and well-damped focussing ring and a closer minimum focus distance than any of the above.

 

Don't forget the New M can also use other brands of long lenses.

 

I have owned both versions of the 250mm f/4, and I have not noticed any color fringing to speak of with either. I also have one of the 350mm f/4.8 Telyts, which does show some fringing. The 560mm Telyt I have shows none that I can see. Both cost much less than the 280mm F/4.

[wildlightphoto]

The 560mm Telyt I have shows none that I can see.

 

Look in the upper part of this photo. I've seen this in 3 samples of the 560mm f/6.8 so I doubt mine is an unusual copy

 

Also see Andy Piper's photos showing the same effect with his 250mm telyt http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/250354-280-telyt-surprising-effect-polarising-filter.html#post2169486

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[Larcomb]

Look in the upper part of this photo. I've seen this in 3 samples of the 560mm f/6.8 so I doubt mine is an unusual copy

 

Also see Andy Piper's photos showing the same effect with his 250mm telyt http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/250354-280-telyt-surprising-effect-polarising-filter.html#post2169486

 

What is your e-mail? I can send you scans of recent shots shot on color negative film. There is no significant (visible) chromatic aberration with my 560 Telyt.

 

I don't know what you are referring to in the photo above.

[stuny]

Charlie -

 

Five (5!) GTOs. !!!!