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Advice please on incident light meter.


MarkP

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I have a Sekonic Flashmate L-308S.

Small, light, uncluttered, reliable.

 

But what really drives me up the wall is that it doesn't have aperture priority.

Inexcusable!

 

Can someone please recommend a light meter they have experience with which is

small, light, uncluttered, reliable, and APERTURE PRIORITY?

 

Thanks in anticipation,

 

Mark

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I've never seen one.

 

And it doesn't bother me to press the "up" or "down" buttons until the display shows the f/ number I want and the exposure time that goes with it - on the rare occasions when I can't do the conversion in my head.:)

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... press the "up" or "down" buttons until the display shows the f/ number I want and the exposure time that goes with it ...

 

What giordano said ... Set the ISO, take a reading and adjust the shutter value until the aperture value you want is displayed. This is how I use the same meter.

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What giordano said ... Set the ISO, take a reading and adjust the shutter value until the aperture value you want is displayed. This is how I use the same meter.

 

+1

 

Don't see the problem....

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+1

 

Don't see the problem....

 

Of course I can work backwards from shutter to aperture priority, but it's an unnecessary and annoying step. Back-calculating is obviously how I've beentiding it because it's the only way tsites it!

 

Thanks to those of you who suggested the other meters. I'll look into them.

 

Mark

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Of course I can work backwards from shutter to aperture priority, but it's an unnecessary and annoying step. Back-calculating is obviously how I've beentiding it because it's the only way tsites it!

 

I agree that not having an aperture priority mode, or a more intelligent display would be quite handy. Look at those who used a Weston meter for decades. We had it all at once in a glance, and after enough experience, some did not even have to look at the dial.

 

(I second suggestions to look toward Gossen products.)

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Of course I can work backwards from shutter to aperture priority, but it's an unnecessary and annoying step. Back-calculating is obviously how I've beentiding it because it's the only way tsites it!

 

Thanks to those of you who suggested the other meters. I'll look into them.

 

Mark

 

Hi Mark,

 

When I sold my Hasselblad gear, I (foolishly) sold everything else, including my Gossen spot meter, and my Sekonic 398.

 

I'm now back in the market (or I was) for a new meter.

 

I have been using the meter app on my iPhone (particualrly when using my M3), and it's not bad, but I don't have total confidence in it. The issue for me is simple - I like taking ambient light readings as it removes a lot of the uncertainty in what can be tricky lighting circumstances. I don't mind the built in meter in the M9, but being centre weighted, it can be a bit hit and miss. I'm also less into taking a spot reflective reading than I am ambient or incident lighting.

 

I did not want anything huge and complicated, so I looked at the Gossen DigiSix, and the DigiSky. Both very nice meters, apparently, but the build quality seems an issue. I liked the look of the DigiSix, but its sounds fiddly and a bit flimsy. I then went back to the Sekonic range and looked there. The L-358 and L-308 look good, but in the end, I decided to buy another L-398A - once you have your head around what you're looking at, it's bullet proof.

 

The biggest issue is that the L-398A and the Gossen DigiSix give you an EV reading, with the combinations of f-stop and shutter speed, rather than just giving you the shutter speed after you've set the ISO and f-stop. I appreciate that this is not perhaps what your preference is, but for reliable readings (well, the one I sold was reliable) and simplicity of information, the L-398A is great. I've just ordered a new one from B&H Photo.

 

It also doesn't use a battery. If you prefer direct readings, you can also get slides to put in the top - I always found these a little fiddly, and they really work best if you're using one ISO (like with film), rather than using ISO as another variable.

 

Cheers

John

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Like all selenium meters, the Seconic Studio DeLuxe – the classical model in question, now under a different name – did not give a completely linear response, except in some part of the range. A silicon cell meter has enough sophisticated electronics to ensure a reasonably linear response. Now this Seconic meter too has a silicon cell – selenium being outlawed – but this is also the only power source of the meter. I have no idea of the present innards of the Seconic. Does it still work by small adjustment resistors and pots?

 

The old man rom the Selenium Age

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I have a Sekonic Flashmate L-308S.

Small, light, uncluttered, reliable.

 

But what really drives me up the wall is that it doesn't have aperture priority.

Inexcusable!

 

Can someone please recommend a light meter they have experience with which is

small, light, uncluttered, reliable, and APERTURE PRIORITY?

 

Thanks in anticipation,

 

Mark

 

Thanks. I wasn't even aware of that. I totally get what you mean. Useless.

 

I checked their website and it does state so:

http://www.sekonic.com/Support/FAQs/Sekonic-L-308S.aspx

 

I did a part of my article about lightmeters the other day so you may get some inspiration from that as well:

 

leica.overgaard.dk - Thorsten Overgaard's Leica Pages - Leica M9 Digital Rangefinder Camera - Page 17: "Light metering with the Leica M9 and Leica M9-P and Leica M Monochrom"

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You mean a mental calculation, as in "better get another light meter" :D

 

Spot on!

 

 

Thanks, your article was what prompted me to sort out my light meter situation.

 

 

To those who suggest I just do the back-calculation that's what I bloody well do! I'm not stupid, just lazy:D . The meter should bloody well do it:mad:

 

An simple firmware (or whatever) upgrade by Sekonic would fix it, there is even an an area on the LCD screen for AE but it is not accessible! I can only assume Sekonic want to push people to more expensive models.

 

Obviously lots of protective comments from happy L-308S owners but I'm not one of them. Each to their own:).

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Been using a Sekonic 308B for eight years without realising the damned thing didn't work, but as meters are just about the most boring thing to spend money on I'm glad I had enough other things to think about, my life can't have been that dull after all. :D

 

Steve

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Been using a Sekonic 308B for eight years without realising the damned thing didn't work, but as meters are just about the most boring thing to spend money on I'm glad I had enough other things to think about, my life can't have been that dull after all. :D

 

Steve

 

Yes, photography is very boring. I do it only because my bungy-jumping days are over, because of my infirm old age ;)

 

But honestly, photography is a craft, and doing a craft well requires the proper tools. Needing eight years to find out that a meter "didnt work" (whatever you mean by that) does not imply craftsmanship.

 

The old man from the Selenium Age

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It's unfortunate that the vendor didn't tell you anything. It's spelled out fairly clearly by Sekonic that the L-308S ('S' for shutter priority) is a flash meter with Tv mode only and is marketed as such. Apparently the 'A' in the L-398A emphasizes aperture priority.

 

The L-358 (no 'S' or 'A') is the 'Flash Master' instead of the 'Flash Mate' and does have both Tv and Av in ambient mode. But of course Tv only in flash mode.

 

I guess they assumed the 308S Flashmate would be used primarily as a flash meter instead of an ambient light meter. Of course you can keep pressing the button until you get the aperture you want, but I realize that slows things down.

 

That all said, I like the Gossen DigiPro F. It's very thin and not that much bigger than the Sekonic L-308S.

GOSSEN Digipro F

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