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Which Leica Film Camera


Beyder28

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Although I am sure that Leica (inc.) would be delighted with "rich history", "legend" etc. It actually for me is not about that -it is about being blown away about the pictures this stuff makes. Their name and reputation (and price, to a minor extent) was more of an impediment than the opposite. Take only a few pictures and you start eating your words. Its the pictures - no more, no less.

 

BTW, that is exactly what the essence of this thread is. Taking pictures with a film camera.

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If I want instant gratification with film, what is the best approach (without compromising on quality if that's possible)? [...]

 

There is a joke, perhaps a profundity in there somewhere.

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Ok guys, after all this debate (within myself) about which film Leica to get, I found a mint SS late model M3 for a great price which I could not refuse so I bought it. Should have it in my hands soon. I really wanted to start out with an M7 to get used to film but I was not against a perfect condition M3 either or M6 TTL for that matter. The M3 just was a good deal. Planning to use my iPhone app for metering and see if I can do this film thing. Any advice, now that you know which direction I went?

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you will screw it up a few times .... that's why you will have to practice .... nothing of value, nothing that makes what you produce reflect on you as an individual rather than another bee in the hive is easy or quick to master (digital or film for that matter).....accept that taking the time to learn everything will move you from consumer, one who's joy is just in saying i used a film camera, to a creator of photographs reflecting on your individuality -- doesn't mean they will be great but they will be yours .... just do it, enjoy the journey.

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Ok guys, after all this debate (within myself) about which film Leica to get, I found a mint SS late model M3 for a great price which I could not refuse so I bought it. Should have it in my hands soon. I really wanted to start out with an M7 to get used to film but I was not against a perfect condition M3 either or M6 TTL for that matter. The M3 just was a good deal. Planning to use my iPhone app for metering and see if I can do this film thing. Any advice, now that you know which direction I went?

 

Congratulations! M3 is really great masterpiece and loading is very easy after a few practice.

I use mostly sunny 16 for metering and it works very well with BW.

I have also Weston Master V. In my mind iPhone app feels too complicate and "too digital" with M3.

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Superb, the M3. Whenever you find something frustrating with it, look with the right eye through the finder, keep the left eye open and enjoy the frameline floating in your field of view - seeing the subject does not get much better than this... and use the wind lever: a befriended photographer trying my (not CLAed) M3 commented that "this is almost a religious feeling".:rolleyes:

 

Loading is not so difficult and safe: since you fix the film end under the clip of the take-up spool, the film basically cannot be not transported; and once the spool (and film canister) fully inserted, it guides the film to the right position. Just make sure you have both hands free during the procedure ;-)

 

Anyway, the first image that will look about as you would like it to do (or even much better) will more than compensate for the learning curve. And the best thing is, that feeling will come back over and over...

 

Enjoy!

 

Alexander

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Ok guys, after all this debate (within myself) about which film Leica to get, I found a mint SS late model M3 for a great price which I could not refuse so I bought it. Should have it in my hands soon. I really wanted to start out with an M7 to get used to film but I was not against a perfect condition M3 either or M6 TTL for that matter. The M3 just was a good deal. Planning to use my iPhone app for metering and see if I can do this film thing. Any advice, now that you know which direction I went?

 

Super! Trust me, you won't regret it.

 

Loading is harder to tell than do. The advices I can give you in this respect are that once you placed the film roll into the camera and closed this latter, load and shoot blank the first two pictures as these might be affected by light leaking. And whilst doing so keep the camera back very close to yr best ear. With a bit of practice you'll be able to tell if the film is regularly moving or not.

 

The other obvious advice is: know your gear and use it as much as you can. The more you'll use it the more you'll know it and the more transparent it'll become in yr hands.

 

Enjoy!

Bruno

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The main thing with film loading is to make sure the cogs of the transport roll are engaged in the film perforation. Plus you can visually check that the film is taken up by the winding roll.

 

Close lid, attach base, transport one or two frames checking the film is unrolling by watching the unwind knob (you might need to carefully tighten the film first).

 

Anyway, it is fiddly but not very difficult. You can consider using a practice roll to get the hang of it..

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I wish there was a video on this so I don't screw it up the first time.

The well-known Tom Abrahamsson has a YouTube video on how to load the M2 or M3

.

 

There's also a Flickr set on quick loading an M3 here, just press the 'Slideshow' button.

 

Make sure that when you jack the film advance lever the two dots on top of the rewind knob turn so you know for sure that the sprockets have caught the film.

 

Pete.

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The well-known Tom Abrahamsson has a YouTube video on how to load the M2 or M3
.

 

There's also a Flickr set on quick loading an M3 here, just press the 'Slideshow' button.

 

Make sure that when you jack the film advance lever the two dots on top of the rewind knob turn so you know for sure that the sprockets have caught the film.

 

Pete.

 

Thanks for the advice but unfortunately I have seen that video and it is of little use to anyone trying to figure out how to load an M3 for the first time. Tom maybe well known in the photo world but definitely has a thing or two to learn about the instructional video world. His arm and hand are blocking most of what is going on during the loading of the film. Its impossible to tell which way he is putting it in, which side and what buttons he is pressing afterward. I guess it is easier to understand and know what he is doing if you already know yourself but not so helpful for a newbie. Very frustrating to see this. As far as the flickr groups photos go, half of them don't load for some reason.

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Open back

 

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Pull out spool

 

 

Thread in film

 

 

Push film back in

 

 

Wind on ensuring sprockets engage sprocket holes

 

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Close back and replace base plate

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Take up tension with rewind knob then release shutter and wind on twice ensuring that the two dots of the rewind knob turn as you do so. Push rewind knob flush.

 

Wash Tea bag stain from big thumb nail.

 

Join Magnum Photographers

 

 

Pete

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Yeah, Tom does look a bit like he's entered a speed-loading competition.:o

 

Here's one from Steve Huff for loading an M6 or M7. The difference with your M3 is that you don't have the M4, 5, 6, and 7's easy loading 'tulip' but a separate spool instead.

 

So you need to pay attention to the loading diagram that you can see on the bottom of your M3 after you've removed the baseplate because this tells you the correct way to insert the film leader into the spool so that it goes the right way round in the camera. When you've inserted the leader pull roughly enough film out of the canister so when you hold them above your upturned M3 your canister and spool roughly line up with their respective holes. Push them into the holes making sure that the film slips into the slot and push the spool and the canister all the way home. Now look at the film through the open back of the camera and you may see that the film's sprocket holes don't quite align with the cameras sprockets. Align the film gently with your thumbs until they do and when you give a little wind on the advance lever the film should move across the back. It helps to rest your thumb lightly on the film while you do this so that the natural springiness of the film doesn't decouple from the sprocket.

 

When you've seen the film move put the back door back down, put the baseplate back on, pull the film advance lever all the way across and then press the shutter button to release the brake. Rotate the film rewind knob in the direction of the arrow on its top gently until you feel some resistance. This means that you've taken up the slack in the canister. Now when you wind the film advance lever you should see the red dots in the centre of the rewind knob rotate at he same time to tell you that the film has loaded properly. If the red dots don't rotate then either there is still slack in the canister or the film hasn't caught on the sprockets. For the first time use an expired or cheap roll of throwaway film so that you don't mind opening up the back again if you need to. When the sprockets have engaged with the film, wind one or two more frames through the camera with the advance lever and your ready to shoot.

 

I feel sure that others will manage to find fault with the method I've described or may have better or different ways to do it;) but if you follow what I've written and watch Steve Huff's video you should be okay.

 

Edit: Ah, I see that I've cross-posted with Pete.

 

Pete.

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