TomB_tx Posted July 13, 2012 Share #21 Posted July 13, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) The dial on the back of an M3 is just a "film type reminder" - to remind you what film is in the camera. The settings on it do not affect the exposure at all - since the M3 has no built-in meter it is up to you to evaluate exposure and set the shutter and lens accordingly. I use a clip-on Leicameter MR on an M3, and you set the film speed on the meter, not on the camera body. On Leica M models with built-in meter like the M6 the dial on the back does set the film speed for the meter, as it includes electrical contacts in the dial. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 13, 2012 Posted July 13, 2012 Hi TomB_tx, Take a look here Looking for a camera. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Scarlet Posted July 13, 2012 Share #22 Posted July 13, 2012 There is no light meter in the M1-M4, M4-P or M4-2. Unless you use an external meter, you will have to guesstimate exposure using Sunny 16 and experience. It is easy in daylight and more tricky at night or indoors. If you don't know how to do this, be prepared for a learning curve. Don't forget that there are good-priced (as in significantly cheaper than M) R-mount Leicas out there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted July 13, 2012 Share #23 Posted July 13, 2012 The selenium cell meters for older Leicas often don't work, and the cadmium cell ones it is hard to find a proper battery for these days since mercury cells have been discontinued in most countries. So it usually boils down, when using older bodies, to using a hand held meter or estimating using either the "sunny 16 rule" or a free paper backed "calculator" such as this (rather excellent) one: Ultimate Exposure Computer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k_g_wolf ✝ Posted July 13, 2012 Share #24 Posted July 13, 2012 >> Anthony Welcome to the World of LEICA, but don´t stumble along the new path with poor funds. If I were you I would save up to EUR 1.200 (+/-) and get a LEICA M6 and an older 50 mm SUMMICRON. The M6 is metered, f2.0 allows you to arrange photos which most likely will be much more attractive than those you get with f2.8 of an ELMAR ... Contact a LEICA-dealer. If it´s a good dealer he allows you take a roll or two to try. A good way to decide. Best GEORG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k_g_wolf ✝ Posted July 13, 2012 Share #25 Posted July 13, 2012 >> Anthony Now I read, you are a student. Not easy to save money as a student, for sure. But I would still recommend an M6 and a 50mm-Voigtländer-lens this time. With this outfit you could end up well under EUR 1.000 ... Good luck with your decision. best GEORG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steed Posted July 13, 2012 Share #26 Posted July 13, 2012 Leica is simply the best made and has the best lenses overall (stay way from Summars and buy good condition). If you want rangefinder on a budget, get a used Canon (my Model P and its 1.4 lens are superb). As far as reflexes go, for ease of use and incredible quality, the Leicaflex SL cannot be beaten. The Pentax Spotmatic is terrific, but be careful as they were not as well made as Leica, so condition is especially vital. AVOID leaf shutters in SLR cameras. I have several Zeiss Contaflexs, and can say that when they work the images are terrific, but they are complex and prone to breaking over time. Good luck John W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted July 13, 2012 Share #27 Posted July 13, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Le As far as reflexes go, for ease of use and incredible quality, the Leicaflex SL cannot be beaten. The Pentax Spotmatic is terrific, but be careful as they were not as well made as Leica, so condition is especially vital...John W I'd agree with John W. I use both Leicaflex and Pentax SLRs, and even find the Pentax faster handling. In 1965 I bought a Pentax, and my Leica-using friend was amazed at the sharpness and contrast of the 50mm lens. Pentax has one advantage for older cameras, in that the light meter circuit is balanced so it works correctly with modern batteries, which are 1.5V instead of the 1.3V cells of the 1960s. While the 1960s Spotmatic and lenses are more "classic" - the more recent K1000 is an ideal "student" camera. It is very solidly made, and lenses are still widely available. You can find a complete camera and 50mm f1.7 lens in great condition for under $200 USD. There are also good Pentax technicians in both US and UK who can restore one to great condition for much less than you can CLA a Leica. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
archi4 Posted July 13, 2012 Share #28 Posted July 13, 2012 I agree with George that a used M6 and summicron 50mm (need not be the last type) would be a good start, but they cannot be obtained within your budget. I am not an e-bay fan so I would not go that way. A Leica CL witht 40mm summicron would be a very good choice, but many CL's have metering and electronic problems and 40mm summicrons often have haze, fungus, or separation of elements. However good examples can still be found from a good dealer. I had one before my M6, and it was an excellent camera. A good example of the 40mm summicron on an M6 is also an alternative. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted July 13, 2012 Share #29 Posted July 13, 2012 An M would be best I think, M6 for ease of use, or an M2 for less money if you don't mind using a separate meter (or a Voigtlander one on the shoe) If you want a rangefinder cheaper than that go for a Voigtlander, IMHO and experience they are better than the CL which is old and has problems getting meter batteries Cheaper than than go for a Pentax, again IMHO and experience they are better made than Olympus, and the lenses are at least as good and usually better. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnthonyG Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share #30 Posted July 14, 2012 The thing is, I've considered other rangefinder camera's and what bugs me, is the looks or the fact that they're just as expensive as a Leica or not that far of (Voigtlander). The ebay-camera I posted had a lightmeter, but it's not that important to me (I know you can get a seperate lightmeter that doesn't have to be mounted on the camera) Questions: What makes an M6 better than an M2/3? Are there good dealers in Belgium? (I'll look into the leica-website list, but I think what I need can't always be found by an official dealer) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted July 14, 2012 Share #31 Posted July 14, 2012 What makes an M6 better than an M2/3? The original build quality of the M2/3 is likely better than an M6; however the M6 would be 20 years newer, and possibly not as much wear and tear. The rangefinder of the M6 is as accurate as the M2, but your eye must be centered more accurately or the patch may tend to "white-out" if light catches the optics wrong. I had noticed this on my M6 before hearing about it from others, so it is true. This is not a big deal - shift your eye position and work around it. I have both types and like the M6 better overall. The M6 shows framelines for 28, 35, 50, 90, and 135mm lenses. The M2 is only 35, 50, and 90; and the M3 is only 50, 90, and 135. A Leica M model is at its best with wide angle to normal lenses, so I find the M2 or M6 finder better for me than the M3. I tend to use a 35mm lens more than any other. I sometimes use a 90mm lens, and don't notice it being any less useful on the M6 than the M3. The M6 has a fast film loading scheme, and is easier to load than the M2/3. The major advantage of the M6 is the built-in through-the-lens light meter. No need for a clip-on or external meter. It makes it much faster handling unless your eye is trained to estimate exposure well. Of course, there are other models of Leica M that are also great. In 1968 I bought an M4 because I liked it better than the M3 and it is still my favorite. I also have an M5, which is slightly larger body to fit in their first TTL light meter - but it is a great camera also. So I wouldn't worry too much about which model. Find any M that is in good condition and feels right to you, and you'll be happy with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antistatic Posted July 15, 2012 Share #32 Posted July 15, 2012 Edited post. Question already answered by others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topoxforddoc Posted July 15, 2012 Share #33 Posted July 15, 2012 Anthony, If you want a M mount rangefinder within your budget, then have a good look at a Minolta CLE with a 40.2 Rokkor M. This came out of Leica's collaboration with Minolta in the 70s. It preceded the M7 by twenty years as an AE priority M Rangefinder. I sold mine a couple of months ago for under £500. It has standard swing door rear film door opening. The 40/2 Rokkor is every bit as good as other Leica optics of the era. If you're interested, ten you much check all the electronic bits e.g. metering, self timer etc. The electronics date from the XG minolta cameras and there are no spares. But don;t let that put you off. I used mine for ten years without it missing a beat. Otherwise, if you want a Leica M, get a M2 (if you want 35 frame lines) or M3 (if you are happy with 50mm and longer) and a used voigtlander lens. You'll get that for your £800. Good luck! Charlie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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