simon2901 Posted February 22, 2012 Share #1 Posted February 22, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) hey I got a used CV 21mm LTM in perfect condition with a LTM to M adapter that allowed 6 bit coding. I love using the lens but i got one problem, the red dot and the whole lens barrel is not sitting the right place (it is a bit off) which means that the 6 bit coding do not get registered, furthermore it makes the focusing scale a bit harder to use, i dont have a LTM camera so i have no idea if it is the adapter or the lens itself that is a bit "mislined" in the mount of something Anyone got some ideas, knowledge, suggestions? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 22, 2012 Posted February 22, 2012 Hi simon2901, Take a look here CV 21mm LTM. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted February 22, 2012 Share #2 Posted February 22, 2012 The problem is probably not in the adapter but in the lens, so the coding cannotbe affected. Sometimes LTM lenses are not very well centred, but that does not require correction. But are you not overrotating by keeping the lock button depressed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 22, 2012 Share #3 Posted February 22, 2012 ...I got a used CV 21mm LTM in perfect condition with a LTM to M adapter that allowed 6 bit coding. I love using the lens but i got one problem, the red dot and the whole lens barrel is not sitting the right place (it is a bit off) which means that the 6 bit coding do not get registered... Does your coding work? If not i would do it again using a good template. If it still does not work, the adapter or your coding are the culprit i guess but not the lens IMO provided the adapter is locked onto the camera mount. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
don_panko Posted February 22, 2012 Share #4 Posted February 22, 2012 The threads in the adapter and the threads in the lens my not tighten perfectly when the lens is in the proper position. My LTM to M adapter has a set/lock screw that allows me to fine tune the final position of the lens. If you do not have the locking screw then you will need something to hold the threads in the perfect position. A small dab of blue Loctite should work but you will need a hair dryer to warm up the mount if you ever want to take it off in the future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drz1959 Posted February 25, 2012 Share #5 Posted February 25, 2012 I have the CV 21mm on the M8. NO coding with no cyan color in corners. Does your images produce any problems? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestMichigan Posted February 25, 2012 Share #6 Posted February 25, 2012 I can't comment specifc to the CV21, but I have a CV 28 1.9 LTM that DOES have a cyan problem when using a uv/ir filter w/o coding. I didn't really pick up on it until I starting shooting scenic stuff recently, but it's notable enough that I soon ordered a codable adapter for it. I sincerely wonder you Drz haven't had a cyan problem - unless you are also shooting w/o a uv/ir filter? My interim solution has been to leave the uv/ir filter off until I can get my coding solution up and running. Richard in Michigan I have the CV 21mm on the M8. NO coding with no cyan color in corners. Does your images produce any problems? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 25, 2012 Share #7 Posted February 25, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have the CV 21mm on the M8. NO coding with no cyan color in corners... Because you don't use IR-cut filters perhaps? With such (Leica or B+W) filters on, i always get more or less cyan corners if i don't code the lens. No problem with the Super-Elmar 21/4 coding for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted February 25, 2012 Share #8 Posted February 25, 2012 If the lens itself is coded, then you need to get the red dot to allign. Remove the screws mount from the lens and try the other placement holes. Allign with a paper clip and tighten slowly a pattern like tightening lug nuts on a car wheel. First snug each, then a bit more, and finally finish tightening. Do in steps completing all before going to the next step. BTW, if you do the car the same way, you will not warp the rotors like the hammer mechanics do when the crank up the air impact gun and run them all to max one at a time. At the factory, they are all one at one time with a special machine and this is the best you can do to duplicate that. If the mount is coded, you need to recode the mount in the proper place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzwave Posted March 16, 2012 Share #9 Posted March 16, 2012 Yes , little bit tricky to code LTM lens.For LTM actually you code the adapter. Sometime the position not mach with 6 bit code sensor on mount. Finally I keep my LTM 21/4 uncoded, so far I'm happy with result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.