FTI Posted January 3, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 3, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been using the M8.2 for about a month now. Still having lots of fun. I was just wondering what your preferred settings were on the M8(.2). I just recently abandoned aperture priority and started playing more with the shutter speed dial - while keeping the ISO at 160. I must say that I'm able to get better results than simply relying on aperture priority (had a similar experience with my D700). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 3, 2012 Posted January 3, 2012 Hi FTI, Take a look here Preferred setting M8(.2). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wda Posted January 5, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 5, 2012 I use manual exposure control most of the time for accuracy and my kind of pictures. In some situations I use aperture priority, when lighting is constant and even with no problem areas. Apart from exposure, do consider using User Profiles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 5, 2012 Share #3 Posted January 5, 2012 Any method (manual or auto) can work, but you'll likely learn more, and more quickly, by using manual initially. Then you'll better understand when you might want to use auto, and why. Of course different people learn better than others...the old saying about having 20 years experience, which for some means just one year of experience, twenty times over. If you haven't read it yet, the M9 FAQ may provide some useful tips (much equally applies to the M8.2) to expedite the learning process. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksporry Posted January 6, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 6, 2012 That's interesting actually. I realised that if you want to quickly compensate then you do need to have the camera set to manual, as unlike e.g. the fuji X100, the M8/8.2/9 doesn't have an exposure compensation knob if I recall correctly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted January 6, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 6, 2012 There is an exposure comp feature on the M8/9, but I suggest not using it, at least initially, if one wants the full manual exposure learning experience. But, whatever floats your boat. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 6, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 6, 2012 Manual exposure setting is faster and more accurate with difficult light than exposure compensation - but that is basically true for any camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonasy Posted January 6, 2012 Share #7 Posted January 6, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Manual exposure setting is faster and more accurate with difficult light than exposure compensation - but that is basically true for any camera. But takes some time to learn I've set my camera to work in discreet mode, great if you want to be ... um discreet. Other than that the M8 doesn't require so much menu fiddling, compared to the various DSLR's I've owned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islandmike Posted January 7, 2012 Share #8 Posted January 7, 2012 Usually auto, but I select the area that I judge will give correct exposure, aim the camera and lock exposure, then recompose and shoot. For a sequence of shots in same lighting, I may then transpose the shutter speed used on auto to manual. So much easier with the M8 than with an AF SLR. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 7, 2012 Share #9 Posted January 7, 2012 My favorite settings with the M8.2 are aperture priority ("A") and auto iso (slower speed 1/15s, max iso 640). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mstephens Posted January 7, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 7, 2012 Manual exposure setting is faster and more accurate with difficult light than exposure compensation - but that is basically true for any camera. Yes, and your prior posts on using manual to drive the histogram were very helpful too. I've been playing with this, and it works perfectly as described. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
don_panko Posted January 8, 2012 Share #11 Posted January 8, 2012 There are lots of variables to play with but I suggest that you set the camera to EV -2/3 and leave it there. The sensor is very good at picking up detail in shadows but very poor at preserving them in the highlights, in my experience. The old rule that two f stops up from the lowest on each lens is the optimal setting also works well for me. Maybe not related to the camera directly but I also suggest that you leave the flash unit at home. Using natural light is so much better. Those would be my basic setting for an M8 using Leica glass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 8, 2012 Share #12 Posted January 8, 2012 That is not a good idea. It assumes all exposures are identical. They are not. Setting your camera to a fixed compensation ensures your exposure will be sub-optimal in most shots. The nice thing about digital is that you are often able to compensate for minor exposure errors in postprocessing, but in this case you are trading dynamic range for convenience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 8, 2012 Share #13 Posted January 8, 2012 +1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mstephens Posted January 8, 2012 Share #14 Posted January 8, 2012 Learning to use the histogram and manual exposure will give far better results than setting a fixed compensation or auto in just about any situation. The metering mechanism in the M8 is nowhere near sophisticated enough for Auto to produce consistent results. This is the biggest adjustment I'm finding in the transition from DSLR and EVIL cameras. It is like going back to my old manual exposure 35mm, but with the huge advantage of an instant feedback loop with the histogram,. The hard part is to avoid chimping, but it is somewhat necessary when learning all this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 8, 2012 Share #15 Posted January 8, 2012 Well i respect what you say of course but i must confess that i've never used an histogram in my life and that my hit rate has never been better since i shoot raw. I'm shooting more or less like i did with tranies and PP does the rest generally. FWIW. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekpt Posted January 8, 2012 Share #16 Posted January 8, 2012 Light metering in Leica M8 is captured by light the sensors inside the bayonet, so the camera doesn't do spot metering just global metering. the Shutter release button has 4 positions: -off (initial state) -turn on metering (slightly touch) -stop metering exposure lock (first click) -shutter release ( second click) I use two techniques: -when I'm able to reach the target, for example on a portrait I put the lens in front the face press exposure lock and without release it, compose and shoot. -when the background light is stronger than the object I want to shoot, I turn the camera with the back pointing the source of light and click exposure lock, compose and shoot. It's very similar to use a light meter. Hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 8, 2012 Share #17 Posted January 8, 2012 Maybe not spot, but strongly centre weighted, because of the shutter curtain white stripe and lens in front of the sensor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted January 11, 2012 Share #18 Posted January 11, 2012 But takes some time to learn I've set my camera to work in discreet mode, great if you want to be ... um discreet. Other than that the M8 doesn't require so much menu fiddling, compared to the various DSLR's I've owned. I like setting the aperture and working from there. You need to do what works best for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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