ganzosrevenge Posted February 13, 2011 Share #1 Posted February 13, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) First thing's first, I'd like to introduce myself. My name's Jason, I'm a college student at Queens College, and I just bought a 1968 Leicaflex SL, and my girlfriend bought me a 50mm f/2 Summicron (1-cam, series 6) and a Eveready Case. I know about the cam problem (hopefully a 2nd cam can be put onto it). However, I have a few general questions about the leicaflex SL. First, with the leicaflex SL, other than the much maligned plastic lens release tab, is there anything I should be worried about in terms of aging? Second, are there any lenses to avoid due to poor performance and / or just won't fit? (beyond the issue of R-lenses and ROM lenses, which I'm avoiding) Third, What size filters does the Series 6 lens take? According to the leica lens database it's from 1965. Fourth: On the eveready case there are 3 snaps. Two came off easily. How do I take the third snap off so that if I want to have it cased during use, I don't have a LARGE piece of reinforced leather hanging about? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 13, 2011 Posted February 13, 2011 Hi ganzosrevenge, Take a look here New Member, first post.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted February 13, 2011 Share #2 Posted February 13, 2011 Jason, First, welcome. This is a qute nice place with helpful people. In this case I am not one of them - I owned an original Leicaflex, but not an SL. The camera has an outstanding reputation as (arguably) the best SLR ever made. Certainly one of the best. Built like a brick... well, you know, Cameras of that age can have meter problems, and the batteries can no longer be bought, but there are work arounds. The focusing microprism is, as far as I know, the best SLR focusing device ever. And the viewfinder is show stopping. Others can comment on your other questions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted February 13, 2011 I'm shooting my first roll of film through it today (a roll of portra 160nc) to test out the meter and whether its exposures are decent. As far as the total weight of the camera goes, it weighs 1,530g (840g body / 690g lens) and compared to my Nikon F3HP, i love the feel of it... it truly feels put together. The viewfinder is something I have to get used to a bit. While i love how quickly I can focus with the microprism focusing screen, the color through the viewfinder is REALLY saturated. If I look at a blue wall, the nikon F3HP is blue with slight yellowing; whereas the Leicaflex gives the blue wall the "ektar saturation" treatment (punches out the blue's saturation about 3 steps). I'm growing to love it as it, combined with the very long throw distance of the lsummicron, provides not only razor sharp focus, but it's much faster to focus than the 50mm f/1.2 on my F3 because of its long throw and solid build. As far as batteries go, I'm ok for the time being. It came with a fully charged Varta 625 U in it, and there's a little camera shop in forest hills that still has that battery in stock, so I stocked up on a few of them to tide me over till I can get the meter changed (providing it hasn't been changed already). I will say though that with the summicron only being a 1-cam, it only meters wide-open (f/2) so until that's rectified, I'll have to use the compensation rule (1 stop down means double the shutter exposure time) and do so mentally until I can get the lens 2-cam'd or 3-cam'd. Having finally been able to compare the build of the Japanese SLRs to the German SLRs, and realizing the latter are extremely well-built, what was it about the German SLRs (The Leicaflex and the Zeiss Contarex) that caused Leica so many troubles and ultimately put the original Zeiss into the ground? I just don't see it. (And if anyone knows how to get that bottom snap of the eveready case off so that you can use the L-Flex in its bottom of the case without the top dangling about... that'd be awesome!) Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted February 13, 2011 Share #4 Posted February 13, 2011 Hi, if the case is like the one for my R3, you unclip the front and have it hanging down, then push the rear stud in and upwards and it comes away. The SL case may be different however but worth a try. You have to push quite firmly. As for the lens, it will probably be cheaper to buy a 2 or 3 cam lens than to get yours converted. Also, you can buy a Tamron adaptor and use the ADll lenses - some of which are excellent in their own right, or for the little used focal lengths. Enjoy the SL and post some results in the photo forums. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted February 14, 2011 Additionally, I have to get the meter calibrated. Broad daylight with an f/2 wide open with Portra 160NC shouldn't yield 1/60 sec readings. I think it's about 4 stops off perhaps. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 14, 2011 Share #6 Posted February 14, 2011 Welcome, I'd marry your girlfriend if I were you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted February 14, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Welcome, I'd marry your girlfriend if I were you. It's heading that way (me and her). She's even got me an eveready case for it. As for everyone else with the battery, i discovered that it had a 1.35v battery when it was converted to 1.5v. Using the F3 I have as a reference (its meter is accurate, and proven), I discovered it was 1.5 stops off with the 1.35v battery, but about 3/4 stop off with the 1.5. In some cases, it was deadly accurate to the F3. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted February 14, 2011 Share #8 Posted February 14, 2011 Welcome! For batteries, these people could help: VintageBatteries.com WeinCell PX625 Replacement Specialist Try experimenting with different film, especially transparency(slide) film. Kodak's E100G is a good all-rounder, while Fuji Astia 100F is ultra fine grain. And do post some pictures! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scsambrook Posted February 14, 2011 Share #9 Posted February 14, 2011 Hi Ganzo, If your SL has the nice brown leather case, then the front flap is permanently attached. Well, 'permanent' until you take it to a sadler or other good leather-worker and get him/her to change the fixing for you. It should be fairly easy to get done. And - though I tread gingerly here - don't forget the SL's 'selective metering' is strictly confined to what's within the outer microprism circle in the viewfinder. The cut-off is indeed 'knife edged' and it's not hard to meter inappropriately if your mind is elsewhere You probably know that anyway, so excuse me if I state the obvious. The SL is a great camera, but it is heavy. And it'll be even heavier when you've got the 35, 90 and 135 lenses to go with it - then it will qualify as a keep-fit item. I had no complaints about that forty years ago, but I think these days it might bother me - Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted February 14, 2011 It says "Leitz Wetzlar" on the front of it, says "GERMANY" on the bottom. VERY nice case, about 45 years old though, due for a saddler to do maintenance on it. Girlfriend bought me it for valentine's day for my SL. Having an F3, the metering on that is a tiny circle within the viewfinder, so I'm not unkeen to "selective light metering". Scsambrook, as for mind being elsewhere , it sometimes is, but the nice thing with the summicron-r mk I (the mid 60s one) is that it's just so heavy and so smooth that I can focus really quickly with it and then get back to mind being elsewhere, if you get my drift . (It's valentine's day so my mind will DEFINITELY be elsewhere if you get my drift.) I'm right now just enjoying it with the summicron that it has, but I wonder about the early 70s 2-cam summiluxes. For those who have a 60s 'cron and a early 70s (or late 60s) lux @ 50mm, how much heavier is the 1.4 than the 2? I couldn't find any info on that lens' specifications. If this is what's considered "an accessible entry point" to leicas, and the camera is this good, then i really want to be able to (when out of college and making more money) try the M-series, the LTM models and perhaps even some of the more contemporary glass (though I am NOT a fan of short-throw focus lenses or lenses that have a lightweight or flimsy feel to them). Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 14, 2011 Share #11 Posted February 14, 2011 Third, What size filters does the Series 6 lens take? According to the leica lens database it's from 1965. Jason Series 6 is the filter size, they are glass in an unthreaded ring Silverbased | What Are “Series” Filters? hope fully your lens will still have the retaining rin, you unscrew this ring and drop in the filter and reattach retaining ring. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 14, 2011 Share #12 Posted February 14, 2011 I'm right now just enjoying it with the summicron that it has, but I wonder about the early 70s 2-cam summiluxes. For those who have a 60s 'cron and a early 70s (or late 60s) lux @ 50mm, how much heavier is the 1.4 than the 2? I couldn't find any info on that lens' specifications. Jason eary cron 550 76 cron 250 early lux 460 to 395 built in hood 98 lux 490 from a book... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 14, 2011 Share #13 Posted February 14, 2011 Hi Jason Welcome... The other answers you may need to know, - your single cam can be converted to twin I think Leica will still do the conversion or an independent may do it cheaper e-mail or phone around. It is a nice lens. The forum will swamp you in names next... - the mechanisal cameras can go on for ever, however if you cold soak them or take them in from cold to high humidity environments (internal condensation) you stress their lubricant in them, and it may stiffen and need replacing, >$. I've had a IIIc rfdr circa '49 got it 2nd hand from '76 and it is still ok, even in cold depends on how much use it has had, lots is good... Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krauklis Posted February 14, 2011 Share #14 Posted February 14, 2011 ... I will say though that with the summicron only being a 1-cam, it only meters wide-open (f/2) so until that's rectified, I'll have to use the compensation rule (1 stop down means double the shutter exposure time) and do so mentally until I can get the lens 2-cam'd or 3-cam'd. ... Jason The German SL manual (Leica Wiki) http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.de/images/b/b7/Leicaflex-SL-BAL.pdf says at page 12 (pdf p.7): Objektive zur Leicaflex mit Außenmessung. It is possible to use 1-cam lenses with the SL. Meter the exposure and at the same time push down the stop down slider (otherwise used to evaluate the depth of field); then correct the value by +1. Kind regards krauklis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted February 14, 2011 Share #15 Posted February 14, 2011 Hi Jason, Welcome to Leicaflex club ! I bought a Leicaflex SL in 1969 and still works especially since he came back from Solms for a large overhaul (see link below) I have a notice in english (3 MB) and I can send you (send me a MP) oh one last thing: it makes beautiful photos http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/97395-i-am-sad.html Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted February 14, 2011 eary cron 55076 cron 250 early lux 460 to 395 built in hood 98 lux 490 from a book... Noel How can the early mid 60s 'cron weigh that much more than the early lux? Mine's the one that shows up in the summicron-I entry of the wiki Mine is a 1965 of this. Hi Jason Welcome... The other answers you may need to know, - your single cam can be converted to twin I think Leica will still do the conversion or an independent may do it cheaper e-mail or phone around. It is a nice lens. The forum will swamp you in names next... - the mechanisal cameras can go on for ever, however if you cold soak them or take them in from cold to high humidity environments (internal condensation) you stress their lubricant in them, and it may stiffen and need replacing, >$. I've had a IIIc rfdr circa '49 got it 2nd hand from '76 and it is still ok, even in cold depends on how much use it has had, lots is good... It's dead reliable. Put in a 1.5v 625 and it's now 1 stop (or less) off from my nikon. Noel Awesome. I'm looking at Sherry or Don (DAG) to do the addition of the 2nd cam. Sherry's in NY like me, but Don also will do modifications such as the steel takeup reel for extra robustness. Hi Jason, Welcome to Leicaflex club ! I bought a Leicaflex SL in 1969 and still works especially since he came back from Solms for a large overhaul (see link below) I have a notice in english (3 MB) and I can send you (send me a MP) oh one last thing: it makes beautiful photos http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/97395-i-am-sad.html Henry Thanks Henry. Mine came with a L-FLex SL manual in hard copy, so I'm reading that. Your L-Flex SL's story is also quite interesting, I'm having a read of it while figuring out some of the finer points (how to stop-down preview with a 1-cam lens) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted February 14, 2011 Share #17 Posted February 14, 2011 Jason, Even if you can source them, I would recommend against using mercury cells. Firstly they are horrendously non-environmentally friendly. It used to be said that one mercury cell could poison one cubic metre of soil, when thoughtlessly disposed of. Secondly if left in a camera in error when exhausted, the ghastly gunk that leaks out, eats the inside of cameras. I would guess that this is the single largest destroyer of Minox sub-miniature cameras (they use a PX27 cell). I was amazed to find these still freely on sale in Vietnam last year. You can get conversion kits for most cameras nowadays, with a tiny voltage limiter circuit to reduce the typical 4 silver cell voltage from around 6.2V down to the required 5.6V to get accurate meter readings. I hope your experience with the Leicaflex is better than mine. Having been a Leica RF user for many years, I bought a second hand Leicaflex SL in 1981, after a friend destroyed my Olympus OM1 by dropping when I lent it to him for a trip to Africa. It gave endless problems, which were not improved by various expensive visits to Leica UK. I gave up in the end and changed to a new Contax 139Q, which is still working well in the hands of a young friend. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted February 14, 2011 Share #18 Posted February 14, 2011 Jason, I live in Manhattan and would love to met you & do some shooting. As the weather improves (Spring) I'm sure the Metro NYC Leica shooters will get together & shoot all over town. I like the SL, but had similar issues, clearly noted by Wilson. For film I use an R8, which is the greatest film SLR I have ever used. Anyway, I have lots of R gear & we when get together we can play with in on your SL. Don't let the spot metering get you down. I always carry a small Gossen Digisix in my right front pocket. I'd save some pennies to purchase a small meter of that caliber. Here's my contact info: roguewave@nysity.com NYSITY Look forward to meeting you soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 14, 2011 Share #19 Posted February 14, 2011 How can the early mid 60s 'cron weigh that much more than the early lux? Mine's the one that shows up in the summicron-I entry of the wiki Mine is a 1965 of this. I'd assume the answer to that question is brass v brass & aluminium, the glass type may be signficant. the more exact figures (sorry) early cron 660 later 685 2nd cron 250 1st lux 460 then 395 2nd lux 490 Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ganzosrevenge Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share #20 Posted February 14, 2011 Jason, Even if you can source them, I would recommend against using mercury cells. Firstly they are horrendously non-environmentally friendly. It used to be said that one mercury cell could poison one cubic metre of soil, when thoughtlessly disposed of. Secondly if left in a camera in error when exhausted, the ghastly gunk that leaks out, eats the inside of cameras. I would guess that this is the single largest destroyer of Minox sub-miniature cameras (they use a PX27 cell). I was amazed to find these still freely on sale in Vietnam last year. You can get conversion kits for most cameras nowadays, with a tiny voltage limiter circuit to reduce the typical 4 silver cell voltage from around 6.2V down to the required 5.6V to get accurate meter readings. I hope your experience with the Leicaflex is better than mine. Having been a Leica RF user for many years, I bought a second hand Leicaflex SL in 1981, after a friend destroyed my Olympus OM1 by dropping when I lent it to him for a trip to Africa. It gave endless problems, which were not improved by various expensive visits to Leica UK. I gave up in the end and changed to a new Contax 139Q, which is still working well in the hands of a young friend. Wilson I love the prism and the focusing ease. It has been converted to 1.5v I found out from the seller, so I dont have to worry about mercuries and i can jsut use normal alkalines. Thanks for the worries about it Jason, I live in Manhattan and would love to met you & do some shooting. As the weather improves (Spring) I'm sure the Metro NYC Leica shooters will get together & shoot all over town. I like the SL, but had similar issues, clearly noted by Wilson. For film I use an R8, which is the greatest film SLR I have ever used. Anyway, I have lots of R gear & we when get together we can play with in on your SL. Don't let the spot metering get you down. I always carry a small Gossen Digisix in my right front pocket. I'd save some pennies to purchase a small meter of that caliber. Here's my contact info: roguewave@nysity.com NYSITY Look forward to meeting you soon. The R8 and R9 are my dream Leica SLRs. What's a Gossen digisix like? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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