Michael-IIIf Posted February 2, 2011 Share #1 Posted February 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been cooking my own B&W since the mid seventies but I'm a D76 newbie. There's a first time for everything. I've just bought a few sachets and am confused by the cryptically sparse mixing instructions. The little icons seem to be telling me to mix it with 800 ml of warm water then top-up with 200 ml of cold water. That much I can follow. Am I correct in understanding that the resultant mixture is what is called 'full strength'? So if one wants '1+1' then one needs to add another 1 litre of water to that? As 1 litre will be more than enough for my purposes (single Paterson tank) is there any reason I should not work with 'full strength'? tia Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 2, 2011 Posted February 2, 2011 Hi Michael-IIIf, Take a look here Newbie questions about D76 - duh!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Stealth3kpl Posted February 2, 2011 Share #2 Posted February 2, 2011 I think you're right Ilford ID11 1L http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200621612182416.pdf Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted February 2, 2011 Share #3 Posted February 2, 2011 Michael, yes that's 'stock' solution, so if you want to use it 1+1 you'll need to add one part water to one part developer. So from memory, if the Paterson tank is 300ml per film, you'll need 150ml of developer and 150ml of water. Most (all?) people dilute the developer as required rather than dilute the whole litre after it's mixed. Diluting the developer will allow you to use longer developing times - which may be useful of stock solution is giving you times of 5 minutes or under. I used Xtol when I was a film user - partly because it can be mixed at room temperature - and for most films used it at a dilution of 1+3. very economical to use that way! The problem is that Xtol only comes in a kit to make up 5 litres. Sorry if I'm saying something you already know, but D76 is a one shot developer, so don't reuse it after the film has been developed. If you haven't already come across it, this site is a good starting point for finding out the developing times for various films... http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted February 2, 2011 Share #4 Posted February 2, 2011 This might help... http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 2, 2011 Share #5 Posted February 2, 2011 What they said - and I emphasize that one mixes the 1:1 (stock + water) just before processing. Do not store it that way. I've found it best to let D-76 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted February 2, 2011 Share #6 Posted February 2, 2011 I've found it best to let D-76 Let it what? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael-IIIf Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted February 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks all - I'll do some mixing this evening Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 2, 2011 Share #8 Posted February 2, 2011 Let it what? Pete I hit Submit by accident then lost my connection! What I wanted to write: This is contentious, but I find that one should let freshly made D-76 stock sit for several hours before using for the first time. I wait 24 hours. The reason, and a highly experienced colleague agrees, is that uneven development occurs otherwise - extra density at the edges caused by fluid surge. YMMV especially if you dilute 1:1 or 1:2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
normclarke Posted February 2, 2011 Share #9 Posted February 2, 2011 Steve, D76 as a one shot developer only applies to the diluted mixtures. At full strength it is a multiple use beast. They used to supply a top up solution to extend the working life. I first used it in about 1949, never really liked it! Best, normclarke. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 2, 2011 Share #10 Posted February 2, 2011 Steve,D76 as a one shot developer only applies to the diluted mixtures. At full strength it is a multiple use beast. They used to supply a top up solution to extend the working life. I first used it in about 1949, never really liked it! 1949? I was three! Good health to you, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted February 2, 2011 Share #11 Posted February 2, 2011 Steve,D76 as a one shot developer only applies to the diluted mixtures. At full strength it is a multiple use beast. They used to supply a top up solution to extend the working life. I first used it in about 1949, never really liked it! Best, normclarke. Yes, used undiluted in 3 gallon tanks for everything from 35 to 10x8, with a replenisher to top up level for carry over and to restore activity. Its a long time ago now since I used them but D76 (and its Ilford equivalent ID11) are solvent type developers and get their fine grain qualities from softening the edges of the grains, but IMHO they soften the edge of the image too, I prefered Microphen/Microdol X which dont cut film speed and giver better sharpness. All these, IMHO are best for roll film upwards, I would use something much more sophisticated for 35mm to get the best resolution/grain, my preference for years was Acutol with FP4 for general stuff. I haven't done any serious B&W for about 15 years though so might be a bit out of date! Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 3, 2011 Share #12 Posted February 3, 2011 Hi D76 is a 'fine grain dev' when you use stock, less so when you use dilute, slowly tending to actuance... Kodak say in above link ' If you use D-76 Developer diluted 1:1, dilute it just before you use it, and discard it after processing one batch of film. Don’t reuse or replenish this solution. To extend the useful capacity of D-76 Developer diluted 1:1—when processing two 36-exposure rolls in a 16-ounce tank—increase the recommended time by about 10 percent. ' Ilford http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200621612182416.pdf provide times for 1+3, ID11 is a 'clone' Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 3, 2011 Share #13 Posted February 3, 2011 [...]D76 (and its Ilford equivalent ID11) are solvent type developers and get their fine grain qualities from softening the edges of the grains, but IMHO they soften the edge of the image too, I prefered Microphen/Microdol X which dont cut film speed and giver better sharpness.[...] Are certain that it is not the other way around? Microdol-X dissolves/softens grain clusters edges and D-76 does not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 3, 2011 Share #14 Posted February 3, 2011 Hi Pico Correct more exactly Microdol-x Kodak fine grain mey need to reduce film speed D-76 Kodak fine grain holds film speed Microphen Ilford still fine grain but may need to increase film speed Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_d Posted February 3, 2011 Share #15 Posted February 3, 2011 Are certain that it is not the other way around? Microdol-X dissolves/softens grain clusters edges and D-76 does not. D76 is a solvent type developer as stated. I am not sure about Microdol but I am sure that Rodinal is a non-solvent type developer. Diluting D76 1:1 reduces its solvency and will increase grain and sharpness slightly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael-IIIf Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted February 3, 2011 Thanks for all the info. I developed the film this morning and the negs look good. Whether the subject matter and the photography is good is another question but D76 seems to have done its stuff well enough for me. I used 1+1 and relied on my DevChart.app for timings. At first glance it doesn't look particularly difficult to mix the stock and then add a bit of water but somehow between the mixing, the dilution, and the development time of over 11 mins, it ended up taking an awful lot longer than my normal Ilfosol does. With Ilfosol I can go from loading the daylight tank to hanging up the finished film to dry within fifteen minutes. Anyway, the main reason I bought it was the sachets are reputed to keep almost forever in powder form and given that I only process one film in a blue moon D76 seems to suit my needs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 3, 2011 Share #17 Posted February 3, 2011 Hi D76 stock does not keep for ever see the Kodak data sheet link earlier. Rodinal concentrate does, several decades at least, but the grain is more apparent, if that annoys you. You need to handle stock D76 with rubber glover especially if your family has a history of ecama or allergy, in that case I'd not use the powder either - metol is the offender. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted February 8, 2011 Share #18 Posted February 8, 2011 D76/ID11/Fomadon P W37 is all the same. Foma brings it in 1 ltr. packages. Same for Xtol/Fomadon Excel W27, were Foton/Foma made a pretty good copy. Available in 1 ltr. packing too were Kodak Xtol is in 5 ltr. packing only. But talking about long storage: Rodinal (> 10 years) HC-110 (approx. 4 years) Diafine (approx. 1 1/2 - 2 years) BTW Diafine is a 2 bath developer and speed enhanced. Also in a pretty wide temperature range independent. HC-110 will be around box speed and is a liquid concentrate. Also suitable for T grain type higher speed films. Rodinal is most suitable for slow and medium speed, classical cubical type films. Also a liquid developer: 1+25 - 1+100 in dilution so cheap too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael-IIIf Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share #19 Posted February 19, 2011 I developed my second roll of FP4 in D76 today and I'm warming to this developer. Now I can see why it's been so popular over so many years. What I like about it is how easy it is to scan. With Ilfosol developed negs I often had to do quite a bit of work in PhotoShop with Levels and such. With D76 I can happily set my scanner to batch scan and the results Vuescan offers me are pretty much there; a little bit of dust spotting and I'm home. Almost, dare I say it, quicker than "developing" RAW files in LightRoom and PhotoShop. It was also very tolerant of my guessed light readings. New (to me) M2, no light meter, all guessed, and all 36 were printable. Only one or two needed Levels adjustment. MobileMe Gallery Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted February 19, 2011 Share #20 Posted February 19, 2011 I developed my second roll of FP4 in D76 today and I'm warming to this developer. Now I can see why it's been so popular over so many years. What I like about it is how easy it is to scan. With Ilfosol developed negs I often had to do quite a bit of work in PhotoShop with Levels and such. With D76 I can happily set my scanner to batch scan and the results Vuescan offers me are pretty much there; a little bit of dust spotting and I'm home. Almost, dare I say it, quicker than "developing" RAW files in LightRoom and PhotoShop. It was also very tolerant of my guessed light readings. New (to me) M2, no light meter, all guessed, and all 36 were printable. Only one or two needed Levels adjustment. MobileMe Gallery Interesting. Yesterday I developed my first roll of film for over twenty years - HP5+ in Ilfosol 3 1+9 for 6mins 30secs @ 20deg C. The negs looked to be (surprisingly!) OK but when scanned on my Epson Perfection 3200 with VueScan, they looked to be over-exposed by at least 1 stop. I can recover the situation via LR3 and CS4 but it adds quite a few steps to the workflow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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