packetron Posted January 24, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 24, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all, I've done a search and couldn't get the answers that I need to start me off with night photography on film. I'm going for my 1st night shoot armed with a newly acquired M3, 50mm and Tri-X 400. I've search and read about the ability to push the film from 400 to 1600 and beyond with acceptable prints and reciprocity conditions as well. Are there any other considerations that I should be aware of when shooting in low light conditions beside setting the cam on tripod? The use of a tripod is going to be tough due to the amount of passing human traffic. Appreciate all insights. Thanks in advance. I'm excited enough to be worried about the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 24, 2011 Posted January 24, 2011 Hi packetron, Take a look here Shooting film at night.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
timd. Posted January 24, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 24, 2011 if you push your trix to 1600, and assuming there's some light around, avoid the tripod. passing human traffic crashing into your tripod will get you into more trouble than sticking to f2 and 1/8 to 1/4 second. since it's your first nightshooting session don't worry too much about the results. there is a learning curve. (if it's anything like commercial work etc. better stick to the equipment you're used to.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted January 24, 2011 Share #3 Posted January 24, 2011 Welcome to the forum and thanks for being a Sponsoring Member at your first post! If you are using a tripod, don't bother to push the film - just set the ISO as you would normally. I always shoot Tri-X at 320, for example. Much depends upon what sort of night shots you want to shoot. Do you want movement and blur, or sharpness? I had great fun in Venice in October with Tri-X and Neopan 1600 at night. Examples are on my website here: LANDSCAPE AND TRAVEL and PEOPLE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alun Posted January 24, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 24, 2011 I know packetron didn't ask, but can anyone comment on what they regard to be successful night time metering techniques? I have always tended to meter just once or twice and use whatever appears required for ambient light levels -- that is, I meter avoiding obvious light sources (street lights, car headlights, store windows) and then put up with blown highlights.... But what do others do? I've had very acceptable pictures with Tri X at 1600, and very good with Ilford 3200; I've also had good results at and just after dusk with plain old 400 film and f2 at 1/8. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 24, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 24, 2011 Hi Only shoot on wet nights, if it is still raining good. Snow better. Bracket in 2 stop intervals. Shoot several frames if exposure time may result in shake. Hang on to lamppost or similar support. Pack a monopod. If you use a sturdy tripod you need a black velvet cover for the lens hood for when autos pass, unless you like the headlamps in shot. Carry a LED (or dim) flashlight to see the cameras scales. Stay out pubs/coffee houses. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted January 24, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 24, 2011 I'd agree with some of the comments above. If using a tripod, just rate the film normally. I'd push if I wanted to go handheld. I've not done enough of the former though I want to. I usually use Tri-X at 400 when I can get away with it or TMZ at 1600 when I can't. There might also be films better suited for what you to do as well. TMY comes to mind due to it's better reciprocity characteristics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacarape Posted January 24, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 24, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi Alun, I don't like blown highlights. For me I'd much rather see darkness in under exposed areas then large areas of white without detail. It is night after all, so the overall image is more pleasing for what I try to do. I use the in camera meter on an MP and get results that are fine. On my first roll of Ektar 100 I tried a few shots at night just to see how the film worked. It was the first roll so there was some day/night experimentation. Example attached. There is an old saw (or truism in Stateside colloquial English) to meter for the shadows in film, and high lights for slides. A very helpful exercise for me was to go out without a camera, just a light meter. Meter different parts of a scene and guess the exposure at different areas. This was helpfull for me to learn to avoid blown highlights or miss detail where I want it. Now I just use the Leica White Spot meter. I know the attached photo isn't very good, it was just play with a first roll of Ektar. You can hand hold ISO 100 film at night. There is a lot of light out there. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142430-shooting-film-at-night/?do=findComment&comment=1568012'>More sharing options...
guywalder Posted January 24, 2011 Share #8 Posted January 24, 2011 if you prefer hand holding, maybe a wider lens will help. I have had some success with a 35summicron and TriX (in an M7 so easier to compose and focus), I follow the meter until the reading goes below f2 at 1/8th, then I carry on at 'my minimum' and hope to pull the results out of the weak negs... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142430-shooting-film-at-night/?do=findComment&comment=1568038'>More sharing options...
timd. Posted January 24, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 24, 2011 There is a lot of light out there. couldn't agree more. this is neopan 400, 1/15s (ok, it's f1,4 - that only means you could do that at 1/8s with f2) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142430-shooting-film-at-night/?do=findComment&comment=1568053'>More sharing options...
packetron Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted January 25, 2011 Thanks all for the reply. Remembering all i can, thats going to be f2, 1/8 after dusk and pulling the film to 1600 since I don't have a tripod with me. I have not tried pulling films before and this will be an excitment enough for me. Will share my shots once i get them processed the next few days. I have been a lurker for a while at this forum and the information provided within prompted me to sign up as a sponsor. Never regretted it since. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted January 25, 2011 Share #11 Posted January 25, 2011 Actually, you will be "pushing" the film to 1600, but that's just terminology You will get better results if you can find 1600 film, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joewehry Posted January 25, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 25, 2011 Remember your eyes see light differently than your camera/film. So, in addition to others' comments, if you're rating the film around 400-800, try squinting when you're looking at the scene. This will reduce the amount of light you see and give you a better pre-visualization of how the scene might capture on film, including highlights and shadow detail / subject outlines. If that pre-visualization is acceptable, then shoot at rated speed of 400. If you want some more shadow detail, increase by 1/2 - 1 stop. Since this is a learning situation, I'd really recommend taking a more studied approach to better appreciate your results. One example strategy. Use a basic "sunny 16" exposure guide for specific night time scenes and bracket each exposure at least one under, normal and one over. Develop film normally at rated box speed and check your results to see what you like and don't like. Example at 400 ISO film Aperture at f/28 Sunset up to 10 minutes after sunset 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 Spotlit subjects and Neon: 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 Bright store windows: 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 Bright streets: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125 Dark streets: 1/8, 1/15, 1/30 Subjects under street lamp: 1/4, 1/8, 1/15 If you choose six subjects like that and bracket up and down, you'll have 18 test exposures to judge. Pick two scenes like that and bracket as suggested and you've completed your roll of 36 exposures. Take notes, study prints, then based on what you wanted and what you got, adjust accordingly. Have fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted January 25, 2011 Share #13 Posted January 25, 2011 Welcome Aboard. The night is my favorite time to shoot. Tri X 400 pushed to 800 or 1600 has a marvelous grain structure that gives the images a superb mood. A film that is no longer made, but still widely available (at least in NYC) in Neopan 1600. The Neopan is a relatively high contrast film, but if exposed correctly, has a look all it's own. More contemporary than the classic, noir mood of TriX 400. My recommendation is shoot with the Tri X 400 first. Very forgiving film that teaches one all about light & grain. Feel free to indulge yourself, by shooting into the lights, inducing flare & otherwise going all out to experiment. This film taught me so much. It's still my favorite. Will look for your work on the Forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
packetron Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share #14 Posted January 26, 2011 Well folks, I had survived the night shoot and came out with 3 full rolls of Tri-X. I will know how many usable shots by tonight when I'm home developing them. It's not actually as dark as i would assumed it to be. Places was lited up a fair bit by dangling lights and all (street bazaar). There were light sources from most places and dark in some. Typical street photography setup. I had issues metering scenes, think it's the same issues as alun was highlight in his earlier post. I didn't know where to meter in scenes with a mixture of light and darkness (eg. dark street with bright lamp) so i just meter the darkess area within the scene. I did push (not pulling - terminologies!!! ) Tri-X from 400 to 1600 when there's no light and stuck with the base film when there's light. The only worry I have is the lack of a tripod and so I'm expecting more burry pictures than clear ones. I will share the pictures here once I am done with them. Great sharing of night shots up there. Those are very beautifully taken. /Ron Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted January 26, 2011 Share #15 Posted January 26, 2011 Probably a bit of heresy here, but for many years I used the Sunny 16 rule in conjunction with a good meter, until I frequently didn't need the meter. I always found night shooting with a meter to be a less than fully satisfying challenge. A couple of years go I decided to try the Jiffy Calculator and found that it usually produces much more satisfactory images than my metered ones. Here's a link if you want to give it a look. After using it a couple of years, I extracted some settings and put them on a small laminated card I usually carry with my camera...a nice tool when I don't have a meter with my manual cameras. http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/files/jiffy.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted January 26, 2011 Share #16 Posted January 26, 2011 I prefer a meter. A very helpful friend. I always carry my Gossen Digisix in my front pocket. Here's an example of the TriX 400 & M2. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142430-shooting-film-at-night/?do=findComment&comment=1570279'>More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 26, 2011 Share #17 Posted January 26, 2011 ... If using a tripod, just rate the film normally. But beware of reciprocity failure when using small apertures with exposure times of more than about 2 seconds. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 26, 2011 Share #18 Posted January 26, 2011 I always carry my Gossen Digisix in my front pocket. ... And a pocket full of spare batteries in your other front pocket? A very nice photo btw, Ben. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguewave Posted January 27, 2011 Share #19 Posted January 27, 2011 And a pocket full of spare batteries in your other front pocket? Pete. Thanks Pete. In fact, I have had this unit about 3-4 years & only replaced the battery just about 8 months ago. It is one of the best teachers I have ever worked with. I'm always trying to guess the EV wherever I roam & this little helper always teaches me something new. It's so small & light and always ever ready. It made the transition to shooting more & more with my manual Hasselblads (simple 500C's) totally painless. I don't really care much for spot metering, as my subject is unlikely to be in the center and I like to keep my eye on the prize for just the right moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kivis Posted January 27, 2011 Share #20 Posted January 27, 2011 Here is Ilford XP-2 pushed to 1600 in a dark room. BTW it is a picture of a chassidic synagogue setup in an used video store. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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