bpalme Posted January 27, 2012 Share #21 Â Posted January 27, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Money being no object.... When I switch from Noctilux to Summicron I think ..Wow it's so nice to have the lightweight, fast/easier focus, compact lens, and crazy sharp. Then when I go from Summicron to Noctilux I'm thinking .. Wow! the bokeh, color and rendering, ability to make dark objects brighten seemingly more than in real life and crazy 3D look! In other words it's a tough decision.. love them both. I can't seem to get my hands on a Summilux but I think there's a good chance it will be my favorite if I had one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 27, 2012 Posted January 27, 2012 Hi bpalme, Take a look here Noctilux 50mm f 1.0 as a single lens. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
MarkP Posted January 27, 2012 Share #22  Posted January 27, 2012 Hi Muizen, interesting question you pose here.  I'll preface my comments by stating that only you know what focal length you primarily see the world through and gives you the most satisfying results. No-one else can answer that for you. Having said that...  I have a 1.0/50 Noctilux and have frequently taken it out as a single lens. It is a beautiful lens with quite extraordinary gently rendering and painting of scenes with gentle muted colours or B&W tones depending how you are shooting. It can indeed be used at smaller apertures although there seems to be a school of thought by some that this lenses should only be used wide open. As a single lens kit on the M9 I don't really mind the weight or size  However, I would not have it as my only lens. For most occasions f1.0 is too fast and without ND filters is unusable in daylight. Furthermore it is a specialist lens because of it's rendering and speed. There is moderately severe vignetting when open and some barrel distortion. If you want only one lens I would recommend a fast 35 or 50.  If I could only keep one of my lenses it would be my 1.4/50 Summilux ASPH. If you wanted a two lens kit for travel, etc as per your post I would recommend 50 and 28. If you want only one lens for the purposes you list above I would recommend a fast 35, probably the 1.4/35 ASPH/FLE. I also have it and it would be my general purpose single lens for travel, family snaps, indoors, architecture, low-light etc.  Regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted January 28, 2012 Share #23 Â Posted January 28, 2012 As a sole lens kit I think you are kidding yourself that it will satisfy all your needs. Â If I stick my Noctilux on my M9 I don't take anything else with me and put up with it for the day.... and have an entertaining time being 'creative' within the limits of the lens and the focal length. Frankly its too heavy to cart around with anything else although I sometimes add in my Perar 35mm and 90/4 which is collapsible..... both weigh very little and take up no space... Â Otherwise I take a selection of focal lengths and leave it behind. Â Unless you are flush with cash I would get a sensible selection of cheaper primes and leave playing with a Noctilux to some future date when you have sorted out what really works for your style of photography using a Leica.... Â Most of the time I carry my WATE, MATE and 90/4 macro..... Â All of them are f/4 and I have hardly ever missed the Noctilux speed as there are other dodges you can employ to mitigate the lack of fast aperture.... Â For me it is the particular look of the Noctilux wide open that attracts me, not the the need for its speed, which although handy is hardly a good reason to buy it..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted January 28, 2012 Share #24 Â Posted January 28, 2012 I have read this thread with great interest. Â Did you suggest the Noctilux f1.0 because it is a Mandler design? If so, then there are many Mandler 50/1.4 and 351.4 which could exhibit similar qualities of the f1.0, but combined give more AOV selection. Frankly, I often like a 21 or 24 & 50 combination. Â I own the f1.0 and love using it for what I like to shoot when in cathedrals and dark museums, but I also have the older pre ASPH 50/1.4 and the pre ASPH 35/1.4 (11870) which are very small and light weight lenses to have with you at the same time. Â I have never found the Noctilux too heavy for me, even though we all talk about lens weights. OK fair enough, but take what you want and don't listen to any of us since we each have different needs & wants for our photographic outings. Â Is it true we cannot post photographs here in this thread for fear of our post being deleted into the trash can? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted January 28, 2012 Share #25 Â Posted January 28, 2012 Is it true we cannot post photographs here in this thread for fear of our post being deleted into the trash can? Â depends who's looking.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atournas Posted January 28, 2012 Share #26 Â Posted January 28, 2012 Please, correct me if I am wrong but, after reading the posts in this thread about the Noctilux f/1.0 suffering from focus shift, I've had the impression that if you first take the exposure, adjust it, and THEN focus, you should not observe any focus shift, right? Â Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted January 28, 2012 Share #27  Posted January 28, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Please, correct me if I am wrong but, after reading the posts in this thread about the Noctilux f/1.0 suffering from focus shift, I've had the impression that if you first take the exposure, adjust it, and THEN focus, you should not observe any focus shift, right? Paul  Wrong, with a range finder you will not see/focus through the lens so you have no chance of seeing the focus shift... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atournas Posted January 28, 2012 Share #28 Â Posted January 28, 2012 Wrong, with a range finder you will not see/focus through the lens so you have no chance of seeing the focus shift... Â Erik, thanks for pointing out that, but I'm still confused. Suppose you don't adjust for correct exposure, say, you grab the camera and the Noctilux is and left at f/1.0, when will the lens be thrown in a focus shift state? Â Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted January 28, 2012 Share #29  Posted January 28, 2012 Erik, thanks for pointing out that, but I'm still confused. Suppose you don't adjust for correct exposure, say, you grab the camera and the Noctilux is and left at f/1.0, when will the lens be thrown in a focus shift state? Paul  Take your lens off the camera and look through it. Turn the aperture dial from lowest to highest value and back. You will see that the opening will become wider and smaller. Lenses with focus shift will make a sharp image at different distances, depending on the width of the hole. Therefore, you must move the lens a bit closer to the film or sensor or a bit further distant from it, depending on the direction of the focus shift.  The rangefinder measures the distance between the lens and the sensor or film. It is adjusted such that it will require the lens to be a certain distance from the sensor for an given distance from the camera to the object.  "Focus shift" is when the camera says that the distance between the lens and the sensor is correct when this would only true for a certain aperture (hole width) and not for others of the same lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindolfi Posted January 28, 2012 Share #30 Â Posted January 28, 2012 Philipp, you are a great teacher! Even without pictures, this should make it clear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 28, 2012 Share #31 Â Posted January 28, 2012 As you know in historic buildings and museums, there is low light and flash and tripods are often not allowed, hence the need for fast glass. Â Â Â Yes but the focus is so critical at f/1 that you would still need a tripod anyway. If the building is dark enough that you need a Noctilux it will be so dark you can't see to focus accurately all the time, you will need to focus bracket from a steady platform. And ask yourself what sort of image you are going to get with such narrow DOF, it will hardly be representative of the interior of the building if only a few inches of something is in focus. I think the whole idea of thinking a Noctilux used wide open can do any of the things you want to do in an efficient way is a misguided dream. For the same money get a range of regular lenses and you will find they serve you far better. Â Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atournas Posted January 28, 2012 Share #32 Â Posted January 28, 2012 Thanks, Philipp, that makes sense. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jager Posted January 28, 2012 Share #33  Posted January 28, 2012 Wow, old thread. I assume Muizen has long since made his decision. Muizen, if you're still around, let us know what you did!  I'd argue that there is a singular benefit in using a single camera/lens combination. It greatly diminishes "thinking about hardware" and leaves one thinking much more organically about light and form and subject. IMHO.  A year ago, following the recalibration of my Noct, I deliberately chose to use it exclusively for six months. No bag. No other lenses. Just an M9 and a Noctilux, with a spare battery in my pocket.  As if that weren't enough, I also limited myself to f1. An arbitrary choice that on its face might seem terribly limiting.  Own the Night  I had a glorious time.  I'm now back to using my other lenses. f4 and f5.6 and f8 now get visited periodically. But the Noctilux remains my go-to glass whenever it gets dark, or when I simply want the unique and lovely signature that only an f1 Mandler design can provide. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/137156-noctilux-50mm-f-10-as-a-single-lens/?do=findComment&comment=1911288'>More sharing options...
eleskin Posted January 28, 2012 Share #34 Â Posted January 28, 2012 I have a Noctilux with my M8. Something interesting has happened to me though. Since I bought a NEX 5n, that camera with its focus peaking is my favorite to use with my Noctilux because I feel that focusing system is many times more accurate than my M8 rangefinder at f1.0. I still prefer the color of the M8 but I like the Sony way better in that I am getting many more keepers that are in focus where i want it. Some of the subjects I focus on are moving (children) and with peaking, the system is much more accurate and offers much greater speed to react to changing situations. We really need a full frame camera that has the Sony EVF technology and superior ISO for lenses like the Noctilux. I have posted a thread on "THE CAMERA WE NEED" to get some opinions on a camera that would have the same layout as the new Fuji X Pro 1, have the same EVF as the NEX 7 with focus peaking, superior high ISO and be full frame with the ability to use EVERY Leica M lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted January 28, 2012 Share #35  Posted January 28, 2012 Yes but the focus is so critical at f/1 that you would still need a tripod anyway. If the building is dark enough that you need a Noctilux it will be so dark you can't see to focus accurately all the time, you will need to focus bracket from a steady platform. And ask yourself what sort of image you are going to get with such narrow DOF, it will hardly be representative of the interior of the building if only a few inches of something is in focus. I think the whole idea of thinking a Noctilux used wide open can do any of the things you want to do in an efficient way is a misguided dream. For the same money get a range of regular lenses and you will find they serve you far better.  Steve  I do not disagree, but I got my Noctilux so I did not have to use a tripod in interior dark situations and it works for me at f1.0 through f4.0. I have never used it above 4.0 so focus shift? I cannot say I've seen it. On all my lenses I do get better hits once I started using the Walter Eye piece since I wear glasses and have an astigmatism. For a one lens setup it does not get me there since I like wides a lot too and then come to think of it, I like 90's a lot too. It's all personal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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