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M8 and Infra-Red Photography


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There is a very useful article on Luminous Landscape that has just been published. The author, Harold M. Merklinger, has clearly put a lot of effort into researching the topic which should help avoid a lot of issues. Great appreciation is indeed due to him for sharing this information.

 

I have been aware for some while of the posiibility of using the M8 for infra-red and this article is the impetus I have needed to obtain an IR filter. :)

 

Luminous landscape

 

Mike

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There a many threads on this forum on the subjects and a number of IR images in the photoforum. This is the first one: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/17172-infrared-m8.html

 

You can find a large amount of information on GetDPIforums as well.

 

And there is for instance this book:

Amazon.com: Complete Guide to Digital Infrared Photography (A Lark Photography Book) (9781579907723): Joe Farace: Books

 

Or:

 

 

Amazon.com: FredM's review of David Busch?s Digital Infrared Pro Secrets

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There is a very useful article on Luminous Landscape that has just been published. The author, Harold M. Merklinger, has clearly put a lot of effort into researching the topic which should help avoid a lot of issues. Great appreciation is indeed due to him for sharing this information.

 

I have been aware for some while of the posiibility of using the M8 for infra-red and this article is the impetus I have needed to obtain an IR filter. :)

 

Luminous landscape

 

Mike

 

 

Mike--thanks for sharing.

 

The table in the article showing which DOF Mark to use for each lens (at specific apertures) is quite useful. Very valuable cross-lens test. (I only wish he would have used recent filters for the test, such as the commonly available B+W 093.)

 

I haven't shot much IR lately, but I should probably get off my butt and do a controlled test for the 35MM Summicron ASPH and 50mm Summicron at a variety of apertures and distances to work out similar information with just those lenses.

 

Cheers!

Will

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Mike,

 

Thanks for the pointer.

 

Interesting research and table of focal lengths for lenses and a worthwhile article for R72 (or 092) 'dark red' IR pass filters. Unfortunately it doesn't delve into the joys of using a 093 'black' filter, which produces that lovely stark white foliage.

 

Since he's using a R72 filter perhaps he'll follow up with some 'faux colour' infrared.

 

Pete.

 

Edit: Oops, cross-posted with Will's post.

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Mike,

 

Thanks for the pointer.

 

Interesting research and table of focal lengths for lenses and a worthwhile article for R72 (or 092) 'dark red' IR pass filters. Unfortunately it doesn't delve into the joys of using a 093 'black' filter, which produces that lovely stark white foliage.

 

Since he's using a R72 filter perhaps he'll follow up with some 'faux colour' infrared.

 

Pete.

 

Edit: Oops, cross-posted with Will's post.

 

Hi Pete

 

That's useful and timely information. I was about to purchase a R72 filter not realising that there is more than one type of infrared, each producing different effects. I'll probably still go for the R72, but at least I won't end up being disappointed that I am not getting the results that I am expecting. ;)

 

Thanks.

 

Mike

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Hi Pete

 

That's useful and timely information. I was about to purchase a R72 filter not realising that there is more than one type of infrared, each producing different effects. I'll probably still go for the R72, but at least I won't end up being disappointed that I am not getting the results that I am expecting. ;)

 

Thanks.

 

Mike

Mike,

 

There's some useful information about different infrared pass filters here at Andrzej Wrotniak's website, which shows the filters' roll-off.

 

Transmission through a filter doesn't go from 100% transmission to 0 in consecutive wavelengths and the number of wavelengths it takes to go from 50% to 0% is called roll-off and the steepness of the roll-off determines the character of the filter.

 

The visible spectrum extends from about 400 nanometres at the violet end to about 720 nanometres at the red end and anything higher than 720 nm is in the infrared band.

 

So, if a filter transmits wavelengths below 720 it will transmit *some* visible light. If you look at the Hoya R72's figures (= B+W 092) in the table it shows 0% at 680 nm and 50% at 720 nm, which means it transmits some visible light at the red end and is called a 'dark red' filter. But the B+W 093 shows 0% at 720 nm and therefore transmits no visible light and is called a 'black' filter.

 

To get the vivid white foliage you need to block as much visible light as possible.

 

Apologies for the lecture.:o

 

Pete.

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Apologies for the lecture.:o

 

 

Thanks, Pete. No need to apologise for a very succinct explanation of the differences between the two filter types. :)

 

Looking again at the illustrations accompanying the Luminous Landscape article, the infrared effect is not especially apparent, the first picture in particular. Then again, there is not much foliage in that image which might account for the subtle variation of tones compared to normal perception.

 

As the cost was not that great, I have now ordered both sorts of filter and together with the information you have given, I am hoping that the article will provide a basis for my own experimentation. Finding out for myself is going to be half the fun. ;)

 

Regards

 

Mike

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Mike,

 

You're most welcome. The next thing to be aware of is that some lenses produce a 'hot spot' when transmitting infrared, which shows up as a lighter spot in the centre of the picture.

 

I have a pet theory that hot spots are linked to aperture because I've found hot spots more pronounced at smaller apertures but much less of a problem wide open. I normally shoot IR wide open and use vignetting control in LR or CS to even up the luminance across the frame.

 

The lenses that I've found to have worked well with IR are the 35/1.2 Nokton, the 28/2.8 Elmarit asph and the 21/2.8 Kobalux. The 35/3.5 Summaron is widely hailed as a good lens for IR too.

 

Best of luck and I hope you post some IR shots when you feel ready.:)

 

Pete.

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You might enjoy looking at these infra red photos taken with my M8 and my Tri Elmar using a B&W 092 filter.

The colours are different because I processed the IR photos in Silkypix. With the B&W Filter and the tri Elmar (used at various focal lengths) I corrected the focus by moving the focus point one stop to the right as indicated on the lens barrel. It seemed to work quite well.

 

Hong Kong Cemetery IR pix

 

Regards

Howard

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... I have a pet theory that hot spots are linked to aperture ...

 

Pete--you're correct. See the paragraph beginning "Elaborating, he states" at Coastal Optics 60mm f/4 UV-VIS-IR APO Macro — hot spot issue, where the designer of an apochromat explains the cause of the often observed IR hot spot.

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Thanks, Pete. No need to apologise for a very succinct explanation of the differences between the two filter types. :)

 

Looking again at the illustrations accompanying the Luminous Landscape article, the infrared effect is not especially apparent, the first picture in particular. Then again, there is not much foliage in that image which might account for the subtle variation of tones compared to normal perception.

 

As the cost was not that great, I have now ordered both sorts of filter and together with the information you have given, I am hoping that the article will provide a basis for my own experimentation. Finding out for myself is going to be half the fun. ;)

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Having both filters, I can attest that in good light the 093 filter gets the most IR effect and still works fine for exposure on the M8. The 092 is very useful when IR levels are low and you still want to work handheld.

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Pete--you're correct. See the paragraph beginning "Elaborating, he states" at Coastal Optics 60mm f/4 UV-VIS-IR APO Macro — hot spot issue, where the designer of an apochromat explains the cause of the often observed IR hot spot.

Thanks for posting the link, Howard. I have been ridiculed for my 'pet theory' before now:D although I could see relationship in photos.

 

Pete.

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:) +1

Hi Mike,

a big thank you on the link to the article on L.L. - it was helpful, informative, and those tables should give a nice running start for me. However, it kinda blows to see the IR Photography capabilites being touted on a "high" traffic site like that! (Whatever opinions might be re:LuminiousLandscape, they are decidedly not as 'niche' a site as, say, a L-Camera-Forum.com is.) I have yet to reach the means to acquire an M8 -specifically for- IR Photography and articles such as this. Articles like this might stir up more buyers to support price levels on the M8 out there in the 2nd hand markets. Cie La Vie - I guess. :-)

Peace

Richard in Michigan

 

 

There is a very useful article on Luminous Landscape that has just been published. The author, Harold M. Merklinger, has clearly put a lot of effort into researching the topic which should help avoid a lot of issues. Great appreciation is indeed due to him for sharing this information.

 

I have been aware for some while of the posiibility of using the M8 for infra-red and this article is the impetus I have needed to obtain an IR filter. :)

 

Luminous landscape

 

Mike

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Mike,

 

You're most welcome. The next thing to be aware of is that some lenses produce a 'hot spot' when transmitting infrared, which shows up as a lighter spot in the centre of the picture.

 

I have a pet theory that hot spots are linked to aperture because I've found hot spots more pronounced at smaller apertures but much less of a problem wide open. I normally shoot IR wide open and use vignetting control in LR or CS to even up the luminance across the frame.

 

The lenses that I've found to have worked well with IR are the 35/1.2 Nokton, the 28/2.8 Elmarit asph and the 21/2.8 Kobalux. The 35/3.5 Summaron is widely hailed as a good lens for IR too.

 

Best of luck and I hope you post some IR shots when you feel ready.:)

 

Pete.

 

Thanks once again to Pete, Jaap and everyone else for the additional info. I am looking forward to testing out Pete's hot spot theory. :)

 

Given that focussing is at best somewhat hit and miss, I was thinking that smaller aperures would be better. I note that Pete's recommended lenses are all wide ones, which should allow some margin for using depth of field to disguise foocussing errors.

 

My R72 filter should be arriving any day now, but I am having more difficulty in obtaining a black one. The main manufacturer seems to B+W, but the 093 (like other of their filters these days) is only available on special order and I have been quoted a 6 - 7 week delivery time. Never mind, whilst I am learning it will be better to concentrate on just the one type of IR photography initially. I just hope that there will still be leaves on the trees when the 093 finally arrives. ;)

 

If I do get any shots that I am pleased with, I will certainly post here.

 

Regards

 

Mike

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I am trying to find an IR filter for my a visoflex/elmar 1:3.5/65 closeup medical application. Apparent, B and W doesn':t make a filter for this lens:(. Can someone suggest a source for such a lens? I am willing to pay for a custom made one if someone has a good resource.:)

Thanks

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This spreadsheet may be useful to focus your lens in IR.

 

At the bottom of the page there is a IR focus estimator where you basically convert the known visible focal length to a IR focal length using a correction factor which on average is 1.0039. Then you can use that to calculate where IR focus if Visible light focus is known or vice versa. The starting values are for a 75 mm lens showing that if you want to focus IR at 4 m you set the lens barrel to 3.34 m. The green cells can be modified. If you want to tinker with the spreadsheet then the password to unlock is "leica" (of course).

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Update - had a bit of research. B&W seems to have dropped 41 mm (still have 40.5 and 43 though) , but Heliopan still sell a full range of sizes, including 41. And a larger range of IR filters with specified cutoff frequencies.

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