Which Leica R to choose? Which one is the best?

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Hi,

I´m looking for some Leica R camera. I already have R4 and R5 and I´d like to buy some "better" of R series. Can anybody give me an advice which one to choose?

I have already been thinking about R6.2 or R8. Fully mechanical R6.2 really attracts me because of its indepence on battery power but its price is so so high, I´d say overpriced maybe. And I like the simplicity.

What attract me about R8 it´s its very fast shutter and even better setting for long expositions. What disattracts me is its complete dependence on battery power. How long do the batteries live?

Does so many metering modes and functions disattract from concentrating on taking pics itself?

What would you recommend me to choose? What do you think is better? Better performer? Better pleasure to use?

 

Does anybody know any shops in Europe where to get R6.2 for a good price?

[bscott]

I don't believe you can go wrong with the R8. The battery life is very good and is not a problem. A very easy camera body to use.

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I´ve just remembered...what about Leicaflex SL? I´ve read some very very positive reviews...

[stunsworth]

I've owned an SL, R4S and R8. If I was buying another R it would be an R8 or R9.

 

Ergonomically I found the R8 to be superb, the viewfinder is fantastic, and it's a more recent body than the other two.

[spydrxx]

In the reflex models, I've owned an original Leicaflex, an SL2, an R3 and an R8. They have each had appealing features to me. The only ones I kept were, my favorite, the SL2, and the M8. I tried to sell the M8 last year, but couldn't get any interest in it unless I gave it away - which I wouldn't do. Since you asked about the M8, it is an exceptionally versatile camera...not light, not, in my mind, a pretty design - sort of avant-garde. Battery drain has never been an issue with mine. Overall I wouldn't hesitate to recommend an R8 to any Leica R fan...it is a very versatile film camera. If you decide to get one, the Eastland book on the M8 is well worth the money to remind you of all of its features.

[earleygallery]

The older Leicaflexes need to be in good order or you need to allow for a CLA.

 

If I was buying a 'new' R I think I'd go for the R6 (fully mechanical) or R9 (last R) but my own one is an R3MOT - the shutter action is superb, much much better than the later models and it's a bargain buy if you can find a nice one.

[wildlightphoto]

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I´ve just remembered...what about Leicaflex SL? I´ve read some very very positive reviews...

 

For film it's my favorite camera, but it has some significant limitations:

 

• they're old and probably will need some kind of service.
  
• The original type battery is no longer available; there are work-arounds though
  
• several newer lenses require more mirror box clearance than the SL has
  
• viewfinder diopters, if you can find them, are big and may obstruct the corners of the viewscreen
  

 

What I like:

 

• the extraordinary viewfinder, if it's in good condition
  
• the solid, non-nonsense design
  
• the continuously-variable shutter
  
• the sensory feedback: visual, tactile and olfactory
  

 

Regarding this camera you will often read that ROM lenses cannot be used, however with a couple of simple modifications many ROM lenses that don't require SL2/R mirror box clearance can be used on the SL.

[nrj]

I've just bought an R7, and I own an R6. Both are excellent but I really like the R7. It is slightly newer, very nice viewfinder that seems easy to focus, has a very smooth and good sounding shutter action, and good choices in automated exposure modes. It handles very well too.

[tobey bilek]

R6 or later are the better cameras. All Earlier ones have one design defect or another.

 

Lffexes are built like tanks and are all good. The are some lens compatability issues with them and later lenses. They all have cloth cutters, mirror dampeners for sharpness, brilliant viewfinders. They are also old and may need expert attention which is not cheap.

[Guest suilvenman]

If you are determined on an R6.2, Ffordes, UK have a black exc.++ @ ₤699. "Good price" is a subjective concept - you only can decide that.

 

Ken.

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Pfff, now it looks much harder to choose one:) I guess every Leica camera is an extraordinary camera. I love how my Leica R4 and R5 performs, I own a couple of Elmarit-R lenses, all of them the first versions.

I much prefer fully mechanical cameras that´s why I wanted R6.2 but the prices I´ve found were much more than I can afford. On the other hand because I travel a lot with my Leicas abroad, I´m a bit afraid of having modern-looking cameras like R8. Because I also own one modern DSLR and I really hate it has sooooo many functions and it really disattracts me from shooting. That´s why I definately went back to film cameras. I just love how films perform.

So the simplicity for me is just plus.

 

All I need is camera reliability - both how it performs and the mechanical aspect.

 

Do you think buying Leicaflex SL is a good bargain?

[jaapv]

Actually I think a factory-new R8 with full guaranty @ 895 Euro is a good bargain

 

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[stunsworth]

Does an R8 have many more functions than an R4?

 

Both the SL and R8 are excellent cameras, but as mentioned above an SL will be quite an old camera.

 

Ffordes in the Uk have several R8s in stock starting at 369 GBP.

 

If you prefer an SL go for it, it will cost less, but may require a CLA.

 

My advice would be to buy from a dealer, you have more protection if something isn't quite right.

[wildlightphoto]

All I need is camera reliability - both how it performs and the mechanical aspect.

 

Do you think buying Leicaflex SL is a good bargain?

 

Whether it's a bargain or not depends on your needs and wants. IMHO, after using and repairing several Leica reflex models over the last 30 years, the SL will handle more abuse than the R4 through R7 bodies will. One weakness of the R bodies is the tripod socket. It's attached directly to the camera's frame. Too much stress and the tripod socket breaks the frame. Bye-bye camera. The tripod socket on all the Leicaflex models is attached to a sub-frame which sacrifices itself in the event of excess stress and is easily replaced. The R bodies' meter coupling and aperture actuating mechanisms are more likely to become sluggish or to freeze up entirely if they get too much dirt or moisture. Not so for the Leicaflexes.

 

On the Leicaflexes, some impacts (such as dropping it, landing on its back) might cause the slow-speed timing module to jump out of alignment, leaving you with no slow shutter speeds until you can get someone to take the top cover off and re-align the mechanism (it's a trivial job once you get the top cover off).

 

So IMHO reliability depends on the forms of abuse the camera is subjected to. With normal use and occasional CLA service any of the Leica reflexes will be fine.

[AbbeyFoto]

I´ve just remembered...what about Leicaflex SL? I´ve read some very very positive reviews...

 

I have used several of the Leica reflex cameras, my clean SL2 remains my favourite. Most of my experience with reflex cameras is with Nikon kit. The one feature of the Nikon system that is superior to Leica are the add on or built in drives. Most give adequate or good control and all offer a comfortable grip. Never felt comfortable with the Leica reflex drives. I bought a Luigi case with built in grip for my SL2 and it works well. One downside of the SL2 is that it looses functionality with Third-cam-only/ROM lenses. All my lenses are 3-cam but there are some lenses I have thought about that are usually only available as Third-cam-only/ROM. So I have wondered about a more modern camera for such lenses. Automatic exposure might be a good compliment to the SL2 and the best option in that context is probably the R9, though if price is a critical issue the R8 is better value for money. The differences between the R8 and R9 are real but subtle.

 

Chris

[anabasis]

Frankly I love my R8. While it is battery powered, a spare set of batteries is smaller than a roll of film so easy to carry and will certainly last quite a long time. The controls are very simple and it is very easy to use. The viewfinder is great and it's a fun camera to use. The only real downside is that it is fairly heavy.

 

Jeremy

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And what about the problem with Leicaflex and the battery? I have read that the 1,3V type is no longer available and you have to use 1,5V which may cause inaccurate metering. Is that true?

I have also read that a bit higher voltage doesn´t matter and it doesn´t affect the metering. What is your experience?

If so, if it really affects the metering, how to recalibrate the camera? Can I do it at home or do I have to send it to service?

[dkCambridgeshire]

Ffordes have a BLACK Leicaflex SL which has been converted to 1.5V ... it's a bit pricey at £349 but black SL cameras are scarce ... and it's just possible it may have some recent service history as it's been converted. SL cameras have one of the brightest viewfinders ever made and they are very reliable.

 

dunk

[hamey]

I have had a few R models, from the SL-R3- R4- R7s-R8 and R9.

 

The SL was a magnificent camera but because I needed a Diopter for it as well as not able to use my modern Rom lenses, I have retired it.

 

Liked the R3 especially it's Leitz copel shutter simply a smooth operator, traded on the R4-- very silly mistake on my behalf.

 

The R4 give me some problems, got them fixed, preformed well for a number of years but then it was traded on R7.

 

Love my R7's but to me the True champion is the R8/9 combo simply superb machines.

 

Leica had made a statement on their R9 promo that it was the best SLR they have ever made.

 

Good luck on your choice.

 

Long live the R.

 

Ken.

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[wildlightphoto]

And what about the problem with Leicaflex and the battery? I have read that the 1,3V type is no longer available and you have to use 1,5V which may cause inaccurate metering. Is that true?

I have also read that a bit higher voltage doesn´t matter and it doesn´t affect the metering. What is your experience?

If so, if it really affects the metering, how to recalibrate the camera? Can I do it at home or do I have to send it to service?

 

Re-calibrating the meter for a 1.5-volt battery can be done at home if you know how. It's also possible to mess it up if you're not careful. There are three adjustment pots behind the 'SL' name plate that can be access by peeing off the leatherette strip. The pot on the film-advance end is to calibrate the battery test, the one on the opposite end is for the high meter range and the middle pot is for the low range. There's some interaction between the pots so it will take a few adjustment iterations.

 

The procedure is to first be sure the film speed cam under the film speed dial is adjusted properly: at 12 ASA and no lens on the camera the meter's follow loop should move its full range as you change shutter speeds from B to 1/2000 sec. Most often the cam is fine and you don't need to do anything with it. You're in the right ballpark if the follow loop is horizontal at 1/60 sec. To adjust this cam, remove the rewind knob by backing its setscrew out about one or 1.5 turns and unscrewing the knob from its shaft. Using a spanner, remove the nut under the rewind crank. At this point the film speed dial will come out very easily and you don't want it to do that! Be sure you keep it in place, don't let it pop up. It's not a disaster if it comes out but it can be much more hassle to re-install it.

 

The cam is held in place with a ring which is loosened with a spanner. Once the ring is slightly loose you can turn the cam to adjust the follow loop. Tighten the ring, put the spanner nut back on, and re-install the rewind crank.

 

Next, calibrate the battery test. The battery test pot is on the film-advance end of the front of the prism. Adjust so that the needle points to the lower dot in the viewfinder when you press the battery test button. Next you adjust the high range (rewind end) pot, then the low range (middle), to match your reference meter. Adjusting the high range will influence the battery test, so it may take a few iterations. Likewise, adjusting the low range will influence the high range, so go back to the high range pot and re-adjust, then re-adjust the low range again. Repeat until adjustments are negligible. Re-attach the leatherette strip with Pliobond or rubber cement.

 

Use a 1.5-volt silver-oxide battery for best results. A 1.5-volt alkaline battery will work initially but its voltage degrades as it ages.