Jamie Roberts Posted September 22, 2011 Share #101 Â Posted September 22, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I guess mine answered it! :-) Â Um nope. Even in post you can't correct for two distinct temperatures of light. You pick one and live with the other, pretty much. Â Sometimes that works ok....See here: Â more mixed light & colour :: June 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 Hi Jamie Roberts, Take a look here Which flash? A Leica flash?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
sergiofigliolia Posted September 22, 2011 Share #102 Â Posted September 22, 2011 but I said "unless you are using gels" or something like that (maybe too short but that's what I meant). Fine anyway. Didn't mean to be conflictual :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted September 22, 2011 Share #103 Â Posted September 22, 2011 Magnum photographer David Alan Harvey uses flesh colored band aids on his flash head. Both diffuses the light and balances it for flesh tones. I have yet to try it but it does seem to make sense. And cheap and easy on/off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted September 22, 2011 Share #104 Â Posted September 22, 2011 Magnum photographer David Alan Harvey uses flesh colored band aids on his flash head. Both diffuses the light and balances it for flesh tones. I have yet to try it but it does seem to make sense. And cheap and easy on/off. Â LOL that's a full CTO I'm betting, depending on the brand.... I was using medical / bandage tape to tape gels to the flash before I found the velcro fix... but the bandaid sounds interesting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted September 22, 2011 Share #105 Â Posted September 22, 2011 but I said "unless you are using gels" or something like that (maybe too short but that's what I meant).Fine anyway. Didn't mean to be conflictual :-) Â Hey sorry--didn't mean to come across as correcting you, but you didn't say what you evidently meant You said: Â "if you are not using gels then you can still do this in post production if you are working in digital' Â And that's just not true.... If you're NOT using gels, then you can't correct two kinds of light in post, and I wanted people to understand that. Â You can at least pick one or the other temperatures in RAW (or something in between getting all the colours wrong); in JPEG you're even more messed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergiofigliolia Posted September 22, 2011 Share #106 Â Posted September 22, 2011 no worries! What I mean is: if you're not using gels and you've got 2 different kinds of light then whichever white balance you choose on camera you can correct it only for one kind of light in post production and anyway you get the other kind of light wrong. If you are correctly using gels then ok. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergiofigliolia Posted September 30, 2011 Share #107 Â Posted September 30, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) If I had 2 SB-900s could I use a sb-900 to trigger the other without using any other accessory? Â I have tried yesterday with a SB-900 on camera(M8) in SU-4 master mode and an off-camera sb900 in SU-4 slave mode and... Â IT WORKS!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rawcs Posted October 18, 2011 Share #108  Posted October 18, 2011 Don't underrate the SF24D. I do often use it for bounce, in normal size rooms with useable reflecting surfaces, such as a white ceiling. The power is quite sufficient, especially at ISO500 or thereabouts, and TTL flash works well and relieves you of much uncertainty. Direct off camera flash can also be effective at short ranges. I use the same technique as Sean Reid: You couple the flash to the camera with either a Nikon SC19 'system' cable, or the universal cable SC01 made by Nissin. To the piece that goes on the flash, I add a wriststrap, of the kind that is intended for a tripod bushing (which both cables have) so that I can momentarily let go of the flash in order to change lens settings. Full function is maintained.  The SF24D is also good for on camera fill flash, cranked down two f-stops or thereabouts.  The old man from the Age of Flashlamps  Lars, I'm going to purchase a SF24d flash but only if I can use it off-camera i.e. attached to a cable at arms-length. I've looked for the Nikon cable but can only find this  Jacobs Digital | Nikon SC-19 Multi-Flash Sync Cord  is this the cable to which you refer? If so, how does it attach to the M9 hot-shoe? via another accessory?  Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1JB Posted October 18, 2011 Share #109 Â Posted October 18, 2011 This is what I use for the SF58. I thnk it's what you're looking for. Â Nikon SC-28 TTL CORD f/SB-SPEEDLIGHT - NISC28 Â Nikon SC-28 TTL Remote Cord - Coiled 3-9' 4765 B&H Photo Video Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rawcs Posted October 18, 2011 Share #110 Â Posted October 18, 2011 Thanks 1JB, it's rather confusing attempting to put different system parts together! Â Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Negative Posted October 25, 2011 Share #111 Â Posted October 25, 2011 From a purely Leica standpoint, the SF 58 is a really nice flash. Of course, it's really expensive and really big, too. For only occasional, leave it in the bag use the SF 24 D is decent. Two downsides; you can't bounce it and it requires less common batteries (because they hold more juice than AAs and are smaller). I have the latter since I rarely use flash with the Ms. Â If I had to do it over again though, I'd go with a small, bounceable Metz (they make the flashes for Leica anyway). Â In all honesty - I prefer faster lenses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Walker Posted October 25, 2011 Share #112 Â Posted October 25, 2011 Two downsides; you can't bounce it and it requires less common batteries (because they hold more juice than AAs and are smaller). Â A piece of white card cut into the right shape and a good rubber band make an excellent, simple bounce for the SF24D. You can make a couple of different sizes to determine if all, or just some, of the light goes up to the ceiling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billib Posted October 26, 2011 Share #113  Posted October 26, 2011 A few more TTL Cable choices to muddy the waters.  The Nikon SC-17 has a hot foot for the camera connection and its cable sticks out in front of the camera, I HATE that. The flash end of the cable requires a 1/4-20 inch adapter (Bogen #3298) to attach its shoe to a grip with a flash shoe. See last photo.  The FlashPoint SC-28 cord appears to be identical to the ZEIKOS ZE-OCSCN cord except for the directions of its cord. My favorite flash cord is the FlashPoint do to these directions.  Nikon.......over $50.00 USA......local camera store FlashPoint.......$35.00 with shipping...ADORAMAdotCOM ZEIKOS...........$20.00 including shipping....eBay  Both Flash Brackets are Leica CTOOM, less than $20.00 each, used.  I hope this helps a little. Mistakes can get expensive. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/120303-which-flash-a-leica-flash/?do=findComment&comment=1826614'>More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted October 26, 2011 Share #114  Posted October 26, 2011 Lars, I'm going to purchase a SF24d flash but only if I can use it off-camera i.e. attached to a cable at arms-length. I've looked for the Nikon cable but can only find this Jacobs Digital | Nikon SC-19 Multi-Flash Sync Cord  is this the cable to which you refer? If so, how does it attach to the M9 hot-shoe? via another accessory?  Mike.  No. The cable must have connectors for hot shoe mounting at the camera end, and a shoe for the flash foot at the other. In other words, one big black thing at each end. If it is so, all Nikon-compatible cables work OK.  The old man Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rawcs Posted October 26, 2011 Share #115 Â Posted October 26, 2011 Thanks Lars, the Nikon cable that I require is the SC28 TTL from what I gather. I ordered the SF24d flash yesterday afternoon from Robert White and it is scheduled to be delivered today (now that's service!). Robert White do not sell Nikon cables (at least I couldn't find them) so I attempted to order one elsewhere but it was on backorder. I may go to Calumet, Manchester U.K. today to see if they have one in stock. Thank you once again Lars and thank you everyone for your advice in this and other threads. Good light! Â Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Negative Posted October 26, 2011 Share #116 Â Posted October 26, 2011 A piece of white card cut into the right shape and a good rubber band make an excellent, simple bounce for the SF24D. You can make a couple of different sizes to determine if all, or just some, of the light goes up to the ceiling. Â True, there is that ol' standby. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erudolph Posted November 23, 2011 Share #117 Â Posted November 23, 2011 ...To the piece that goes on the flash, I add a wriststrap, of the kind that is intended for a tripod bushing (which both cables have) so that I can momentarily let go of the flash in order to change lens settings.... Â Â Lars, can you give me a link to such a strap? Â Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted November 24, 2011 Share #118  Posted November 24, 2011 Lars, can you give me a link to such a strap? Ed  Sorry, no. I found mine in a carton at my dealer's shop. Companies like Hama used to make these things, like several manufacturers of compact cameras, but Hama do not seem to carry them now.  The old man pack rat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erudolph Posted November 24, 2011 Share #119  Posted November 24, 2011 thanks anyway, Lars.  I found this:  gordy's camera straps  Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke_Miller Posted November 24, 2011 Share #120 Â Posted November 24, 2011 I use this one. It can be easily shortened so as to keep it from slipping off the wrist. Â Bower SS881 Heavy-duty Wrist Strap SS881 B&H Photo Video Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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