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Hi, I am using an actual sharpie.

 

The black looks quite dense, and doesn't fade easily. Before I start using a dremel and paint I would like to know if there is something I'm not doing right, or if maybe the sensors under the red glass aren't working. 

 

-Fabian-

Edited by Fabian_M8
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There are many things that could be wrong...

Before attacking the lens with a Dremel, perhaps you could try mounting a factory coded Leica lens.

If the code is recognised, you can rule out the sensor as being the problem and investigate other possibilities (precise placement of the code 'dots' being the most likely issue if you are indeed using a fresh Sharpie).

Edited by Ecar
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  • 6 years later...

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I have the AkaraLab thingy and it does the job - I use black enamel paint and a cocktail stick to apply the paint though as otherwise the paint runs.  I've not had any luck with marker pens. I've coded 4 lenses so far, all work fine.

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Painting coding marks onto a stock Leica flange will never work in the long term because it is an interference fit, so metal rubbing against metal, not metal rubbing against a soft paint or Sharpie surface as with the knee jerk DIY coding of old. Manufacturers such as Zeiss and Voigtlander use a milled rebate in the mount to accept the depth of paint necessary to code the lens by hand. But for a Leica lens you'll either need to buy a replacement flange from eBay that has coding pits milled into it or get the Dremel out..

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Or buy a LTM version of the M-mount lens and use a LTM-to-M adapter with coding pits on it. Only issue, few LTM lenses have closer than 1 metre (3.5 feet) MFD, except non-Leica lenses like Skopar 50/2.5 (0.75m MFD) and perhaps others i don't know of.

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1 hour ago, algrove said:

Tried Jaapv's codes mentioned years ago and the link no longer works. 

Any new suggestions? Thanks.

I did not check all the codes but the updated list below looks accurate at first glance. Courtesy of a LUF member i don't recall the name, my apologies to him/her.

Leica M Lens Codes_240602.pdf

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A while ago I bought at a reasonable price the AKARA 6 bit Encoder Kit. It came with a very easy to use template and two Uni pigment oil base markers - one black, one white.  I have coded several lenses - Leica and otherwise with good success. The process is so simple even I could do it! The thought of using a power tool on my lens gave me nightmares. I understand for those here who drill teeth, it was no concern 🤪

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3 hours ago, GFW2-SCUSA said:

A while ago I bought at a reasonable price the AKARA 6 bit Encoder Kit. It came with a very easy to use template and two Uni pigment oil base markers - one black, one white.  I have coded several lenses - Leica and otherwise with good success. The process is so simple even I could do it! The thought of using a power tool on my lens gave me nightmares. I understand for those here who drill teeth, it was no concern 🤪

any paint on steel will be scrubbed off against another steel. You will see.

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Posted (edited)

I bought one of the Akara encoders and it works very well. Yes, the marks will eventually wear off your lenses, but they are so easy to apply (black only in my case, the white are unnecessary) that it really is no hardship to renew them every few weeks or months, depending on your usage. 

Edited by Musotographer
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A possible concern is camera's behavior when reeding wrong code numbers. I seem to recall freezes on the M11 with uncoded lenses due to wrong pen-coding. My experience is limited though as all my pen-codings are done on recessed coding pits.

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