Flashes

[tdtaylor]

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I have searched the threads, and am not finding the answer to my question.

 

Background: I know the Nikon iTTL system, and am comfortable working with multiple flashes and some fancy flashwork, but for the last decade have not done much manual/automatic work- really only worked with the CLS system (an incredible system, by the way).

 

Part I: Now, I am totally bamboozled on how to set up a flash for automatic (A) use. My Nikon SB-600 only have manual and iTTL, and my SB-900 has Automatic, but I just can't seem to get it to work well- besides, the SB-900 is huge, and looks silly on the M9, and kind of defeats the purpose of the compact M9 (it may also be gray matter failure).

 

Part II: Are there any alternatives like he Nikon SB-400. Avery small compact flash, that can be tilted up for indirect flash work. It is not the answer to serious gigs, but it is the perfect compact size to throw in your pocket when your not expecting to need a flash.

 

I know the SF58 is the answer, but I just can't get myself to justify the cost (yes, after the M9 and lenses). I have a SF24D, but am not thrilled with it, and am not thrilled with Reid's idea of using it with a third arm. And something the size of the SB-400 would greatly complement the M9 and these tiny lenses (coming from the SLR world).

 

Any thought/advice would be greatly appreciated for one groping with the new Leica paradigm-and loving it.

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[lars_bergquist]

Since I exchanged my M8 for a M9, I have not used flash once -- and mind you, Sweden is a very dark place at this time of the year! We have splendid high speed lenses. Use them.

 

Flash is useful mostly for fill-in. We do not need anything bigger than the SF24D for that. And the best way to use it is indeed with a 'system' cable, like a Nissin SC-01 or something from Nikon. I used this technique before Sean Reid publicized it, and it works beautifully. If you have trouble handling the rig, even with a wrist strap attached to the flash, use the camera grip, or do as I do -- wind the camera strap a couple of turns around your right wrist.

 

Who has said that photography should be a no-think no-work occupation?

 

The old man from the Age of Flash Powder

[250swb]

Since I exchanged my M8 for a M9, I have not used flash once -- and mind you, Sweden is a very dark place at this time of the year! We have splendid high speed lenses. Use them.

 

 

 

For those times when darkness would defeat the Noctilux, or you need some DOF, a good flash is essential.

 

I'm using my two Olympus flashguns set to automatic with my M9. They are the FL-36 and FL-50 and both have swivel/tilt heads. Since the introduction of the 'R' version of these two they come up on ebay for a reasonable price for such well made flashes. The FL-36 balances with the M9 perfectly, but even the FL-50 isn't overly heavy and is slightly easier to use.

 

Steve

[Rick]

Bite it and get the SF58. IT WORKS GREAT. Only problem is, like most, I never use flash. And, the SR wrist-bracelet deal is bogus... IMHO.

 

I also have the SF24, like lars, and I agree with him that it is all you need... sort of... until you need more than fill flash or when you are in bright sunlight, then you do need more. I got the SF58 and it is the real professional deal (except recycle time). But again, I just never seem to use it, like lars.

[ianspector]

I have also come from Nikon D3 and 5 SB800s. My solution is to put a Pocket Wizard on the M9 and use other PWs to trigger all five remote strobes. I do not take them when walking around, relying on f/1.4 and high ISOs to get me home.

 

Ian

[jaapv]

I use the SF24D for fill flash and quick shots, if needed with the SFILL diffuser, or a home-made bouncer. For real bounce flash I use a Metz MZ-4 on A which complements the camera well.

[thrice]

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I use the SF24D as a primary light as well sometimes, here bounced off the roof and using a window to the left for fill:

 

[tdtaylor]

I use the SF24D as a primary light as well sometimes, here bounced off the roof and using a window to the left for fill:

 

 

This is the result I am use to getting with a flash. Definitely not the SF24D direct. In using the SF24D off camera, I assume you use it on automatic (A). Think for now I'll just get a cord and experiment.

 

Thanks for the replies. Part of my not wanting to spend on a SF58 is that I don't use flash much anymore, even on my Nikons with their high ISO abilities.

[Luke_Miller]

This is the result I am use to getting with a flash. Definitely not the SF24D direct. In using the SF24D off camera, I assume you use it on automatic (A). Think for now I'll just get a cord and experiment.

 

I bounce my SF-24D, but do so in TTL mode. I don't think you could use Auto and bounce the flash since the Auto mode sensor has to point at the subject in order to control exposure.

[thrice]

I bounce my SF-24D, but do so in TTL mode. I don't think you could use Auto and bounce the flash since the Auto mode sensor has to point at the subject in order to control exposure.

 

I had the flash mounted on a tripod well to the side of the camera, unless I had a REALLY long sync cord that'd be impossible without using M or auto on the flash.

[peter_n]

A pity you don't have an SB-800. I use one on film Ms in non-TTL auto A mode and it works very well. Not much bigger than the SF-20 - see pic below.

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[tdtaylor]

I actually have SB-600s and a SB900. I'll give that a try tonight using your suggestion.

 

Thanks,

[ChrisC]

Terry - Is this of any help :

 

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2009/12/first-look-pixel-tr-331-ttl-remote.html

 

If it is, please share why.

 

............... Chris

[tdtaylor]

Got home tonight for my local photo store reping Leica with a cord, and no go. Wrong pin layout. I mentioned it looked wrong, but was told I was wrong and to use this specific cord- I unfortunately was right. Playtime with flashes will be tomorrow night, if I can make it to the dealer tomorrow. The good news is they were just trying to save me money....

[tdtaylor]

A pity you don't have an SB-800. I use one on film Ms in non-TTL auto A mode and it works very well. Not much bigger than the SF-20 - see pic below.

 

Been trying on the SB900 (although looks a little out of place on the M9). I can get A mode working with a direct flash, but not working well indirect. Any thoughts. Haven't worked in A mode for many years, set the aperture to match, set the lens length, should work. Since the flash is in 1/1,000s, speed should not matter.....I think.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[Luke_Miller]

Terry

 

The Nikon sync cords work just fine. I use both the SC-17 and 28 with my M8.2. I'm sure you also remember to set ISO on the flash since only Leica dedicated flashes get that via the sync cord. My M8.2 will flash sync at 1/180 sec or slower. I expect the M9 is similar.

[tdtaylor]

Terry

 

The Nikon sync cords work just fine. I use both the SC-17 and 28 with my M8.2. I'm sure you also remember to set ISO on the flash since only Leica dedicated flashes get that via the sync cord. My M8.2 will flash sync at 1/180 sec or slower. I expect the M9 is similar.

 

My apologies- have the ISO. I'll delay my test until tomorrow night. Thanks for the thoughts. I remember the days when Nikon CLS was confusing. With flashes, have found it is just a matter of experimentation and persistence- the manuals have also only been so helpful.

[peter_n]

Been trying on the SB900 (although looks a little out of place on the M9). I can get A mode working with a direct flash, but not working well indirect. Any thoughts. Haven't worked in A mode for many years, set the aperture to match, set the lens length, should work. Since the flash is in 1/1,000s, speed should not matter.....I think.

Terry the SB-900 is big - also I don't think it has the non-TTL auto feature that the SB-800 has. With the 800 you set the ISO, lens length, aperture. If the head is angled for direct the LCD shows distance for the lens length. Angling the head up to bounce the distance info then disappears from the display (reasonable enough). Press the shutter firing the flash and the red LED doesn't blink indicating the unit is happy with the settings.

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[tdtaylor]

Terry the SB-900 is big - also I don't think it has the non-TTL auto feature that the SB-800 has. With the 800 you set the ISO, lens length, aperture. If the head is angled for direct the LCD shows distance for the lens length. Angling the head up to bounce the distance info then disappears from the display (reasonable enough). Press the shutter firing the flash and the red LED doesn't blink indicating the unit is happy with the settings.

 

Late last night I believe I discovered you are correct- the SB900 doesn't have non-TTL auto, just auto or TTL. Auto appears to work only with a direct flash, not bounced. When bounced, I get the dreaded blinking red light. I now wish I hadn't sold my 2 SB800s (and an old Vivitar 285?) to get the SB-900, but I sure like the SB-900 better with the Nikon- so much easier to use and move between single flash and master. Just may have to break down (in the future) and get a SF58, although for the few times I will use it with the Leica, sure seems like a lot a dough. On the other hand, I use my flashes quite a bit during events on my Nikons.

 

Thanks to everyone who has attempted to relive me of my frustration. And if you have any more thoughts.....beside buying new equipment, please post.

[James R]

I'm able to use my SB 900s directly on the M9; however, I can't use it with the ThumbsUP attached. Something in the TU's design doesn't work with the SB900. Anybody else experience this? Also, does the TU present problems when using Leica's dedicated flash?