jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Share #1 Posted March 30, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Now that SH photo is handling the Leica R sale - The matte screen of the Visoflex can easily be exchanged for a DMR screen. Remove the four screws, lever off the screen holder carefully, taking care not to lose the small springs and balls that form the "click", and preserving the shim(s). The R-DMR screen has to be prepared. The tabs must be trimmed off and the corners slightly rounded. Replace, fresnel lines topside - and there you are. Framelines and all. The only caveat - be careful with the screen now, it is not glas. Clean with airblower and soft brush only. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 30, 2009 Posted March 30, 2009 Hi jaapv, Take a look here VISOFLEX owners- grab your chance!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
rafael_macia Posted March 30, 2009 Share #2 Posted March 30, 2009 What is the advantage of the DMR screen over the Visoflex plain matte? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted March 30, 2009 Share #3 Posted March 30, 2009 You have the correct framelines for M8 sensor : on the std. Visoflex screen you grab a 24x36 image, unless you make some kind of DOY "mask" for it (as I did... it's easy). But can be also that the screen quality is better - clearer - sharper hence easier to focus : I do not know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted March 30, 2009 It is indeed the framelines. The quality / I´ll have to try it out. I´ve been grinding the screen today and I´ll fit it later this week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafael_macia Posted March 30, 2009 Share #5 Posted March 30, 2009 You have the correct framelines for M8 sensor : on the std. Visoflex screen you grab a 24x36 image, unless you make some kind of DOY "mask" for it (as I did... it's easy).But can be also that the screen quality is better - clearer - sharper hence easier to focus : I do not know. Luigi, how did you put in the M8 line.s? What instrument did you use? On one Viso (I have 2 Viso III's), I have a Brightscreen with M8 lines installed. (I don't really like the Brightscreen in use, (see my neighboring post just now) )....... The second Viso, with the factory plain matte I have crudely put on lines which are "Press-Type", (non permanent rub on lines.) I used the measurement from the Brightscreen etched lines, as a guide, but the results are far from perfect. Do you know a good way to put on lines? Also please be so kind to comment on my neighboring post ... similar in subject. thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted March 30, 2009 Share #6 Posted March 30, 2009 Jaap, I looked at SH and saw that there is a number of screens available... microprism, "grid" etc... do you know which could be the best for a Viso ? Having never used seriously SLRs I am not confident in microprisms... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted March 30, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm going to try the microprism. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafael_macia Posted March 30, 2009 Share #8 Posted March 30, 2009 You probably better go with plain matte. I know from experience (Brightscreen install on Viso III), that micro prism is not good for extreme telephoto or extreme close up ..... on the Viso anyway. If the DMR screens are similar in makeup, you may not be happy. A micro prism screen might not distribute the light evenly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted March 30, 2009 Share #9 Posted March 30, 2009 Luigi,how did you put in the M8 line.s? What instrument did you use? On one Viso (I have 2 Viso III's), I have a Brightscreen with M8 lines installed. (I don't really like the Brightscreen in use, (see my neighboring post just now) )....... The second Viso, with the factory plain matte I have crudely put on lines which are "Press-Type", (non permanent rub on lines.) I used the measurement from the Brightscreen etched lines, as a guide, but the results are far from perfect. Do you know a good way to put on lines? Also please be so kind to comment on my neighboring post ... similar in subject. thanks! I made a session of trial-by-error with erasable pencil lines, found a good solution and draw 4 subtle black lines with ink (the old-style Koh-I-Noor "rapidograph" with "china ink"... fortunately I have still one for it's used by my daughter at school...). This was made at the top side of the screen. Others (there had been a thread with pics) preferred to cut a light plastic 18x27 mask and attaching it to the bottom of the prism's glass, if I remember well... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted March 30, 2009 You probably better go with plain matte. I know from experience (Brightscreen install on Viso III), that micro prism is not good for extreme telephoto or extreme close up ..... on the Viso anyway.If the DMR screens are similar in makeup, you may not be happy. A micro prism screen might not distribute the light evenly. I´m no great fan of microprisms either, but actually this version was quite good on the DMR-R9. It is only the center roundel that has microprisms anyway, the rest is plain matte. I tried it with the Visoflex lenses I own on the R9 . I will report back on this forum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoism Posted March 30, 2009 Share #11 Posted March 30, 2009 At one point I tried a screen with split center and microprism collar in my Viso III but was disappointed. Either one of these features is prone to aperture variations. In DSLRs you focus without having to stop down so the limitation is not so obvious. With Viso, unless you work with fully opened aperture and in sufficient light, the microprisms starts to get darker and the split image area shows dark areas, too. I have since returned to using the original matt screen. Another option is to have it "brightened". I believe Bill Maxwell does that: Bill Maxwell 1+770-939-6644 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted March 30, 2009 There is a full matte screen for the dmr too. If this works but for the prisms it is ordered easily enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobwyer Posted March 30, 2009 Share #13 Posted March 30, 2009 Try printing the attached screen outlines on a transparency. The enclosed jpeg file is A4 size Cut out whichever you prefer and slide under the Frame of rhe prism unit, having loosened the 6 screws which hold it in place. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/80899-visoflex-owners-grab-your-chance/?do=findComment&comment=857854'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #14 Posted March 30, 2009 At one point I tried a screen with split center and microprism collar in my Viso III but was disappointed. Either one of these features is prone to aperture variations. In DSLRs you focus without having to stop down so the limitation is not so obvious. With Viso, unless you work with fully opened aperture and in sufficient light, the microprisms starts to get darker and the split image area shows dark areas, too. I have since returned to using the original matt screen. Another option is to have it "brightened". I believe Bill Maxwell does that: Bill Maxwell 1+770-939-6644 This is, of course, not the way the Visoflex is supposed to be used. The correct procedure is: Set aperture preset, measure with open lens, flick aperture closed and expose. No variation in aperture at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #15 Posted March 30, 2009 Try printing the attached screen outlines on a transparency. The enclosed jpeg file is A4 size Cut out whichever you prefer and slide under the Frame of rhe prism unit, having loosened the 6 screws which hold it in place. Yes. I described that two years back. The better place for the frame is inside the prism. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoism Posted March 30, 2009 Share #16 Posted March 30, 2009 This is, of course, not the way the Visoflex is supposed to be used. The correct procedure is: Set aperture preset, measure with open lens, flick aperture closed and expose. No variation in aperture at all. Whether you preset the iris or not depends on the final aperture you will be using, but the bottom line here is that when there is not enough light through the viewfinder of the Visoflex then the split image or the microprism may start to darken and that may not make focusing any easier than on a good matt screen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #17 Posted March 30, 2009 Whether you preset the iris or not depends on the final aperture you will be using, but the bottom line here is that when there is not enough light through the viewfinder of the Visoflex then the split image or the microprism may start to darken and that may not make focusing any easier than on a good matt screen. That goes for any SLR. The Visoflex is not different in any way. Of course, when I use a 800 f8.0 on any SLR, I will need a full matte screen, that goes without saying (focal length is a factor too) I will change the screen in my R9 before going on safari, that is obvious.For a solitary long shot with a slow lens one may use the area outside the central circle as a stopgap. But the REAL bottom line is that the Visoflex III is made for open-aperture focussing with a spring mirror at the yellow dot and the only concession is to close the aperture manually to the preset just before releasing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafael_macia Posted March 30, 2009 Share #18 Posted March 30, 2009 Try printing the attached screen outlines on a transparency. The enclosed jpeg file is A4 size Cut out whichever you prefer and slide under the Frame of rhe prism unit, having loosened the 6 screws which hold it in place. Really nice outlines! How would I go about printing them on a transparency ? I could not get them to print in a scale size of 24x36 ? I am viewing the thread pictures with the Safari browser, on a Mac.The images are about 40mm across I cannot reduce the image. The type, yes, gets larger or smaller, but the framing images stay the same. thanks Rafael Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share #19 Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) ok. I fitted the screen and tried out a few versions. I had plenty of screens in my spare parts box anyway ... With the 280/4.8 all three screens (universal, microprism or full matte) work flawlessly. The microprism can be stopped down to 5.6, the universal can handle 4.8, but the wedges blacken out at smaller apertures. So for macro with stopped down lenses I would recommend the full matte screen, for long lenses the full matte or the microprism screen. Just one addition for the fitting: It may be needed to activate the four prongs that hold the screen by bending them slightly. The R9 screens are *considerably* better than the brightscreen offering and brighter than the original glass Visoflex standard screen. The only downside is that they as less scratch-resistant than the Visoflex screen which is glass and the Brightscreen which is covered by a thin glass screen which is engraved with the framelines. Edited March 30, 2009 by jaapv Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobwyer Posted March 31, 2009 Share #20 Posted March 31, 2009 Rafael Open in Photoshop, save as Tiff, Paste into say PowerPoint and scale to match 24x36, Just done this on my Mac Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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