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Best exposure comp technique for M8?


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It was working with my M7 that I discovered this. When you lock exposure with a 1/2 press, you really are putting the camera into "shutter lock". The shutter speed is held, and now opening or closing the aperture is an easy, fast method of overriding AE settings on the M8. In fact it's much better on the M8 than M7, because on the M7 the shutter button won't stay 1/2 pressed once the film is advanced, it has to come back up so each exposure needs to be compensated again. On the M8 you can shoot a series of compensated images by holding the shutter 1/2 pressed. So in any situation where the DOF implication is not critical, this seems the best way to handle exposure comp on the M8 to me. best....Peter

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Ummm. It is much simpler to go to manual and use it like an M6 imo....With auto-iso disabled, of course.

 

That sort of goes without saying Jaap. Exposure compensation really loses it's meaning when relying on totally manual exposure. I'm just referring to AE mode.

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:eek:Thank you very much! I never thought about that. I'm going to try it immediately. I think you have given me the right and perfect solution for a quick and easy control of the exposure compensation on the M8. It sounds like simple and effective. Better than the new M8.2 method. I'm very happy now.

Kind Regards

Miguel

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Hi Peter,

 

I guess I'm just part of the old school so to speak. After setting the aperture, I more or less know exactly what shutter speed I want. So if the camera gives me a reading that I'm not happy with, I just meter a part of the scene that is either lighter or darker depending what shutter speed I want, lock in the setting (1/2 press), recompose and shoot the image. If the camera gives me consistent readings that I don't like (not uncommon when shooting the same scene under constant lighting conditions), I just switch to full manual. Chimping helps to confirm you're getting the exposure you want...

 

Andreas

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I have never bothered with AE compensation with my M8. Going into a menu and ordering compensation by pure guesswork is just plain silly. Locking the exposure (by the method above, or simply locking when pointing the camera to a suitable subject area) is pretty useless, because if you need a quick follow-up shot or two, you have to go through the rigmarole again for every frame. The only sensible method is to switch over to manual.

 

My old Olympus OM-4 had a lever whereby you could lock auto exposure in for an entire series of shots or an occasion, and delete the lock by pushing the lever in the other direction. That was the only AE-lock that I ever found useful, and I cannot understand why Leica cannot use such a sensible system.

 

The old man from the Age of Manual Everything

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Miguel and Joe- Glad you find it helpful.

Andreas and Lars- I certainly understand and respect the manual approach, and use it myself often. But I've offered up a recipe for lamb chops, and you're saying "I'm a vegetarian". That's great, but says nothing about the suggested spices. ;>) best...Peter

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I have been using the silly AE compensation method a lot of times, especially after the firmware 2.002 update. Before that the AE works fine for me, but after the update I noticed a slight overexposure, so I use -1/3 to compensate. It is by no mean perfect for all circumstances but mostly worked for my needs.

 

But holding down the shutter release halfway is a quick and dirty way to do compensation when the need arises and I agree it is not a replacement for manual exposure control. If you need the same compensation consistently during a session then the AE compensation would work better, no?

 

As for getting the desired exposure reading then pan over to frame before exposure is another time tested ( and I agree "old school" ) method, too.

 

Now that the lamb chop is served, and a roast duck is also presented, any other recipes to follow? :D

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Peter - interesting that this has come as a revelation - I thought that was how everyone did it. Given the strong centre weighting of the M system's metering, since my first M I've had the habit of taking a reading from a critical area (shadows in film days / highlights in digital) and setting it right in manual or AE locking as you describe. It was part of the skill set you had to acquire - and applied with all the cameras I've used - Spotmatic through to Canon 1v and M6/M7. I can't imagine how anyone could use an M if they didn't work that way - trying to dial in EV compensation on the fly would be absurd.

 

Also - for the record, apart from when I'm working in really tricky light (theatre, performance, night scenes - anywhere with very concentrated light and huge tonal range) I LOVE Auto exposure and Auto ISO. My M8s have felt like completely new cameras since the last firmware change and really are ideal for the reportage work that I do.

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I thing that is the first time I hear about blocking shutter and after that, change the aperture. If everyone knew it before, I've learnt it today. In another posts about the annoying way of the exposure compensation on the M8, nobody mention this way.

Even when I'm not off and I have to work, I took a couple of hours to to try by myself.

I have to say that work perfect in a very intuitive, quick and efective way. I've always used the normal ways. Choosing the light, then blocking, then composing or working manual. But this new way works perfect for street photography when you have to be quicker.

I would like to post three images that I took this afternoon. They have been not processed at all. I could do it in another way but I've enjoyed learning a new way.

The first one I've pushed half f-stop more open

The second half f-stop more open

The third one f-stop closer

Thanks to Peter again.

 

 

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Also - for the record, apart from when I'm working in really tricky light (theatre, performance, night scenes - anywhere with very concentrated light and huge tonal range) I LOVE Auto exposure and Auto ISO. My M8s have felt like completely new cameras since the last firmware change and really are ideal for the reportage work that I do.

 

 

Chris - I share your joy in Auto exposure and Auto ISO, though it's something I admit to rather shamefacedly. After all, it effectively turns the M8 into a point-and-shoot with a bit of added focusing.

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Given the strong centre weighting of the M system's metering, since my first M I've had the habit of taking a reading from a critical area (shadows in film days / highlights in digital) and setting it right in manual or AE locking as you describe.

 

Hi Chris- That's not exactly what I mean. Taking a different reading than the subject that you feel is correct, and locking AE is, I agree, the "standard" way of operating in AE. I'm describing fast moving situations where you can't point the lens at anything but your subject. If you know it needs, say, + comp based on conditions, especially changing ones, this allows you to stay with the subject, locking the shutter speed selected, and opening the aperture to achieve correct compensation. There are situations I think this will come in handy for me now that I have it in mind. best....Peter

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I'm describing fast moving situations where you can't point the lens at anything but your subject. If you know it needs, say, + comp based on conditions, especially changing ones, this allows you to stay with the subject, locking the shutter speed selected, and opening the aperture to achieve correct compensation. best....Peter

 

Peter - a blinding light of realisation! Sorry - I'd not read the post closely enough. :o Yep - you're absolutely right and it's a feature I'd not noticed before - and one that I'll consider - certainly quicker than the EV compensation on the M 8.2 - although this does have advantages in more stable lighting conditions as you have precise control over DoF.

 

I'll read your posts with greater attention in future!! :)

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What you want when using exposure compensation is normally not to compensate for a subject that is off the 18% reflectance norm overall--like the traditional baker in a snowdrift. If you do that, it is exposure by guesswork, and the solution is not more comfortable guessing, but an incident light meter (which has a permanent place in my bag).

 

What you do want is to avoid having an abnormally bright or abnormally dark subject part in the meter area influence the reading. Then you want to point the camera at a more average part of the subjct, and lock the value in. This is the typical 'quick and dirty' action scenario. But the present meter-lock-by-release-button is useless for quick work, as it has to be redone again for every new frame.

 

Therefore the M9 should have a little lever under the shutter speed dial. Normally, it should be at a middle position. When you want to lock an EV in, you push that lever fully to the right; the comp light starts blinking in the finder, but the lever springs back to its normal mid-position. The compensation remains in force until (a) you push the lever fully to the left--whereupon the signal light goes out, and the lever springs back again--or (B) you switch the camera off, or allow it to go to standby.

 

(An even handier position would be under the shutter release, where the present off-on switch is. This could just as well sit under the shutter dial, because you do not use it terribly often. The important point is that you must be able to find the compensation lever easily with your eye at the finder.)

 

This is how simple it can be. And I assure you that it works, which the present system does not. Leica Camera, take notice!

 

The old man from the future (which Leica have had

to be dragged into by the hair, screaming, ever since

Barnack's death)

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Therefore the M9 should have a little lever under the shutter speed dial. Normally, it should be at a middle position. When you want to lock an EV in, you push that lever fully to the right; the comp light starts blinking in the finder, but the lever springs back to its normal mid-position. The compensation remains in force until (a) you push the lever fully to the left--whereupon the signal light goes out, and the lever springs back again--or (B) you switch the camera off, or allow it to go to standby.

 

Sold!

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Lars,

 

That seems like a rock solid suggestion.. would belong nicely on a M camera.

 

- though... aint we all old men in this forum..? Im a sailplane pilot and somebody just told told me the average age for sailplane pilots is 70.... yikes. I gotta get back to soccer playing.

 

.

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