dennersten Posted October 2, 2008 Share #1 Posted October 2, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sigh, the dark season is here up at the dark Nordic countries. It get's dark already 19.00. In December the sun is up only 6 hours... And when it's up a very common day it's f2 at ISO 400 .... So actually i took up Leica just because of Noctilux. That was my first lens. But now over to my question. I've got plenty of good results with ISO 1250 and the M8, but nothing so far with ISO 2500 i have so far ruled it out as to noisy. But the other day i stumbled over Noise Ninja and are really impressed. Maybe this could make the ISO 2500 useful? Could you guys please share some experiences and insights how to use the 2500 setting. And hopefully some good samples? Enclosed is a picture ISO 2500, 1/30 and f1 before and after NoiseNinja (and please, i am a beginner at this..) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64390-iso-2500-anyone/?do=findComment&comment=673781'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 2, 2008 Posted October 2, 2008 Hi dennersten, Take a look here ISO 2500 anyone?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
dennersten Posted October 2, 2008 Author Share #2 Posted October 2, 2008 Hmm as you can see this needs a lot of training to be good. Here comes one more Noise Ninja sample Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64390-iso-2500-anyone/?do=findComment&comment=673784'>More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted October 2, 2008 Share #3 Posted October 2, 2008 The smoothing in noise ninja is very effective but also very noticeable. What happens when you deactivate the NN smoothing and use PS smoothing instead? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 2, 2008 Share #4 Posted October 2, 2008 Sigh, the dark season is here up at the dark Nordic countries. It get's dark already 19.00. In December the sun is up only 6 hours... And when it's up a very common day it's f2 at ISO 400 .... So actually i took up Leica just because of Noctilux. That was my first lens. But now over to my question. I've got plenty of good results with ISO 1250 and the M8, but nothing so far with ISO 2500 i have so far ruled it out as to noisy. But the other day i stumbled over Noise Ninja and are really impressed. Maybe this could make the ISO 2500 useful? Could you guys please share some experiences and insights how to use the 2500 setting. And hopefully some good samples? Enclosed is a picture ISO 2500, 1/30 and f1 before and after NoiseNinja (and please, i am a beginner at this..) I get why you feel it looks better but the pre-noise ninja version is more natural if noisy: the processed versions make skin look very plastic IMHO. Sorry! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 2, 2008 Share #5 Posted October 2, 2008 I get why you feel it looks better but the pre-noise ninja version is more natural if noisy: the processed versions make skin look very plastic IMHO. Sorry! I agree the skin does look a little plastic so maybe backing off the noise reduction will give you the best of both worlds.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografr Posted October 2, 2008 Share #6 Posted October 2, 2008 I see those four guys were having a good time telling jokes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordfanjpn Posted October 2, 2008 Share #7 Posted October 2, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I see those four guys were having a good time telling jokes. They look like somebody stole their last beer! Seriously though, while Noise Ninja is a good tool, once you learn how to use it, I have found that Dfine 2.0, by Nik Software, gives a more natural result without losing detail. I have been very pleased with the results with film scans and digital files from the M8 and a GRD2. NN will now be retired from my computer. YMMV. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsteve Posted October 2, 2008 Share #8 Posted October 2, 2008 Håkan: The secret to Noise Ninja is not to over do it and follow a few steps: 1. Do not apply any extra noise reduction in the conversion from DNG. I tend to just leave it at the defaults in Lightroom. For Capture One, you probably need to turn noise reduction down. I do not use C1 often enough to understand the noise reduction and sharpening settings. 2 Apply noise ninja to the full size image before resizing or sharpening. It should be the first thing you do after opening the file in Photoshop Here are the settings I used on your image, though I had no control over the tow steps listed above. Notice that I use strength and smoothness lower than the defaults. Strength - 7 Smoothness - 5 Contrast - 10 USM - 150 USM radius - .4 (that is point four) Original: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64390-iso-2500-anyone/?do=findComment&comment=673820'>More sharing options...
j. borger Posted October 2, 2008 Share #9 Posted October 2, 2008 Sorry .... but on all cases i prefer the pre-noise ninja version ! You are loosing detail in the main subjects and the result looks very unnatural and smeared/ softened to my eye. Use Noise Ninja in a mask .. so you can apply the smoothing only to the background and leave the the main subjects as is ----- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted October 2, 2008 Share #10 Posted October 2, 2008 I see those four guys were having a good time telling jokes. Hey that's hilarious, I was concentrating so hard looking for noise that I didn't notice the picture. Its really priceless, in view of your comment. Getting back to the low light noise issue, I'm not too experienced here, and although most posters comment you need to take a "perfectly" exposed picture in low light to min. noise, I can't seem to get the hang of it and find if I underexpose the shot and then increase the exposure in pp, I tend to get better results. But then again, my pp skills are rather limited to converting from RAW, adjusting the white balance, contrast and sharpening..... Best Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordfanjpn Posted October 3, 2008 Share #11 Posted October 3, 2008 Just for comparison, a Dfine version. I did go back after the noise reduction and add some selective sharpening to the ladies, but I tried to keep it subtle. Not much you can do with jpegs though. Bill Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64390-iso-2500-anyone/?do=findComment&comment=673905'>More sharing options...
andym911 Posted October 3, 2008 Share #12 Posted October 3, 2008 Lets face it...the M8 is not for low light at high ISO. Many cheap 300 euro DSLR will do better, and thats ok.Best to use M8 for 'not so low light' in my opinion , thats where the files really shine. As a comparion here a (bad) 3200 shot from a 300 Euro 6MP camera.....great for low light but of course with its limitations elsewhere. Good light;) Andy Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64390-iso-2500-anyone/?do=findComment&comment=674075'>More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted October 3, 2008 Share #13 Posted October 3, 2008 Seriously though, while Noise Ninja is a good tool, once you learn how to use it, I have found that Dfine 2.0, by Nik Software, gives a more natural result without losing detail. I have been very pleased with the results with film scans and digital files from the M8 and a GRD2. NN will now be retired from my computer. YMMV. Bill Yes! I Dfine 2.0 gives a more natural result. I rarely use now Noise Ninja as a Photoshop plug-in because I prefer Dfine results. I kept NN in my computer just because I can use it as standalone software. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
russell Posted October 3, 2008 Share #14 Posted October 3, 2008 Take a look at the original un-noise reduced image. You can see the banding(I call it griding) in the blacks of the window. There is a distinct pattern. I've brought this up before but noone can explain to me why it's in such a regular pattern. Nor why Leica cannot solve this in firmware since it's such a regular pattern. Does anyone know if there is a third party software that addresses the griding / banding directly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwfreund Posted October 3, 2008 Share #15 Posted October 3, 2008 Noise Ninja is just the thing for post processing of politicians. I think that they think the plastic look is more natural. -bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share #16 Posted October 4, 2008 The smoothing in noise ninja is very effective but also very noticeable.What happens when you deactivate the NN smoothing and use PS smoothing instead? I got to play around some more. I am working with Aperture at first hand. So really want to try out that combination first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share #17 Posted October 4, 2008 I get why you feel it looks better but the pre-noise ninja version is more natural if noisy: the processed versions make skin look very plastic IMHO. Sorry! I kind of agree, but that was why i posted this thread it must be thousand ways of doing this. So i was looking for some experience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share #18 Posted October 4, 2008 Yes! I Dfine 2.0 gives a more natural result. I rarely use now Noise Ninja as a Photoshop plug-in because I prefer Dfine results. I kept NN in my computer just because I can use it as standalone software. Looks great. Can you please post some 2500 samples? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share #19 Posted October 4, 2008 Håkan: The secret to Noise Ninja is not to over do it and follow a few steps: 1. Do not apply any extra noise reduction in the conversion from DNG. I tend to just leave it at the defaults in Lightroom. For Capture One, you probably need to turn noise reduction down. I do not use C1 often enough to understand the noise reduction and sharpening settings. 2 Apply noise ninja to the full size image before resizing or sharpening. It should be the first thing you do after opening the file in Photoshop Here are the settings I used on your image, though I had no control over the tow steps listed above. Notice that I use strength and smoothness lower than the defaults. Strength - 7 Smoothness - 5 Contrast - 10 USM - 150 USM radius - .4 (that is point four) Original: Thanks a lot Steve ! I will try it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share #20 Posted October 4, 2008 Hmm i am little disappointed. I had hoped for some god samples that you really could use ISO2500 in an creative manner, with a little help from some nifty software like NoiseNinja and Dfine and some creativity. So what are we saying that ISO2500 is only good for familysnaps? Or maybe best case small professional webpictures? Small prints? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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